What's on my Citron Goby?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Muraad
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Muraad

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 20, 2022
Messages
91
Reaction score
45
Location
Mississauga, ON
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I just came back from a 10 day vacation where my siblings were looking after the tank. I noticed some white spots in my fish. That's not ich right? How do I treat this? I have a hospital tank set up and the fish is in there right now.

81384.jpg
 
I just came back from a 10 day vacation where my siblings were looking after the tank. I noticed some white spots in my fish. That's not ich right? How do I treat this? I have a hospital tank set up and the fish is in there right now.

81384.jpg
That looks like ich to me. The spots look pretty consistent with the typical salt-grain appearance of Cryptocaryon, especially with them being scattered across the head and body.

I’d still try to get a clearer picture under white light if possible, because heavy blue lighting can make spots and skin texture look worse than they really are. But based on that photo, ich would definitely be my first suspicion.

If it is ich, I’d assume the other fish in the display have already been exposed as well, even if they aren’t showing spots yet.
 
That looks like ich to me. The spots look pretty consistent with the typical salt-grain appearance of Cryptocaryon, especially with them being scattered across the head and body.

I’d still try to get a clearer picture under white light if possible, because heavy blue lighting can make spots and skin texture look worse than they really are. But based on that photo, ich would definitely be my first suspicion.

If it is ich, I’d assume the other fish in the display have already been exposed as well, even if they aren’t showing spots yet.
81879.jpg


Heres another photo. The fish keeps going back to the back of the tank so its a bit hard ti get a proper picture. If it's ich I have copper ready. But can ich arrive randomly? Ive had this fish and a pink streak wrapped for 5 months now. I haven't added any other fish unless it can also come from clean up crews?

Even my nitrate went out of control somehow during that short span but thats easier to fix.
 
That looks like ich to me, especially in the second photo. There are quite a few distinct, salt-grain-sized white spots on the head and body. Some of the lighter areas could be mucus or lighting but I don’t think that explains all of those individual dots.

I’d treat this as ich unless clearer photos under white lighting suggest otherwise. Also keep in mind that if this fish was in the display with other fish, they should all be considered exposed even if they aren’t showing visible spots yet. And yes, ich can potentially hitchhike into a tank on things like a hermit crab shell, snail shell, coral plug, or other wet additions. It’s also possible the tank already had ich at a low level and the outbreak became noticeable while you were gone.

If the goal is true eradication rather than just management, the display needs to remain fishless long enough for the parasite to complete its life cycle without finding a fish host. Many hobbyists use a 72–76 day fallow period to be as conservative as possible. It absolutely sucks, but it’s the most reliable way to make sure the display itself is cleared.
 
That looks like ich to me, especially in the second photo. There are quite a few distinct, salt-grain-sized white spots on the head and body. Some of the lighter areas could be mucus or lighting but I don’t think that explains all of those individual dots.

I’d treat this as ich unless clearer photos under white lighting suggest otherwise. Also keep in mind that if this fish was in the display with other fish, they should all be considered exposed even if they aren’t showing visible spots yet. And yes, ich can potentially hitchhike into a tank on things like a hermit crab shell, snail shell, coral plug, or other wet additions. It’s also possible the tank already had ich at a low level and the outbreak became noticeable while you were gone.

If the goal is true eradication rather than just management, the display needs to remain fishless long enough for the parasite to complete its life cycle without finding a fish host. Many hobbyists use a 72–76 day fallow period to be as conservative as possible. It absolutely sucks, but it’s the most reliable way to make sure the display itself is cleared.
I'm going to say personally that I've appreciated your posts here and elsewhere tonight. I am in agreement with almost all that you've posted, and I believe your thoughts are in line with the R2R Fish Medic Team's paradigm.

@Jay Hemdal FYI
 
Oh, and yes, that looks like Ich to me too - forgot to mention that 🤪

The tiny spots on the fins would be the indicator to me. I believe this fish and all others should be treated with copper in a separate QT tank.

This is the R2R QT paradigm, which has more information:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/

As always, I wish you the best of luck!
 
I've been off the forms for awhile. Is the tank transfer method not used anymore. It always seemed to work for me. Kinda a pain to have two quarantine set ups but I liked it better than messing with copper.
 
I've been off the forms for awhile. Is the tank transfer method not used anymore. It always seemed to work for me. Kinda a pain to have two quarantine set ups but I liked it better than messing with copper.

TTM does work for ich, but not really well for other issues. In a case like this, where it is clearly ich, then TTM might work. Here is the HUGE drawback though - the DT needs to be held fishless for 60 days. TTM is a LOT faster than that, so were do you house the fish for the extra time?

Best to just use a dedicated QT with a good biofilter and treat the fish for 30 days with copper and then hold them there for another 30 days before returning them to the DT.
 
TTM does work for ich, but not really well for other issues. In a case like this, where it is clearly ich, then TTM might work. Here is the HUGE drawback though - the DT needs to be held fishless for 60 days. TTM is a LOT faster than that, so were do you house the fish for the extra time?

Best to just use a dedicated QT with a good biofilter and treat the fish for 30 days with copper and then hold them there for another 30 days before returning them to the DT.
I'll give the new method a shot, thanks!
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT FIRST SPARKED YOUR INTEREST IN REEFING?

  • I saw a reef tank that hooked me

    Votes: 17 20.2%
  • I was already keeping freshwater aquariums

    Votes: 31 36.9%
  • A particular fish got me interested

    Votes: 11 13.1%
  • Corals and inverts were the draw

    Votes: 14 16.7%
  • A friend or family member introduced me

    Votes: 10 11.9%
  • The science and ecosystem challenge appealed to me

    Votes: 16 19.0%
  • I stumbled into it… and here we are

    Votes: 11 13.1%
  • Other (Post in the comments)

    Votes: 13 15.5%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new