What's Your Lowest Successful PAR Level?

Da Ghost

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I am noticing that most PAR meters her are the "real deal". I am using the PAR meter on the Seneye should I consider an upgrade or make any adjustments?

I am becoming more heavily involved in SPS after a few years off from the hobby (roughly 10 but who's counting). And I was wondering the same thing regarding lower light intensity but also spectrum of light.

In fact, This question was sparked by reading your article from 2009 -How to make Corals More Colorful Parts 1. In that you mention, " in all cases that blue light promoted the expression of fluorescent pigmentation most effectively. Green light ran second best in promoting fluorescent pigment production, although the filter used by these researchers transmitted a fair amount of blue light."

I note in most light bulbs green is seldom "high" and usually on par with red. (i.e. Radion AB setting has green and red set to 24 and that is the highest you ever see green being introduced) So could it be a question of the type of light that reaches the corals versus intensity (PAR) or even a combination - if intensity (PAR) is X then Green must = Y AND Blue must = Z?? Sorry if i am getting you off track please feel free PM me if you feel this will get to far offtrack.
 

Mattrg02

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I am noticing that most PAR meters her are the "real deal". I am using the PAR meter on the Seneye should I consider an upgrade or make any adjustments?

I am becoming more heavily involved in SPS after a few years off from the hobby (roughly 10 but who's counting). And I was wondering the same thing regarding lower light intensity but also spectrum of light.

In fact, This question was sparked by reading your article from 2009 -How to make Corals More Colorful Parts 1. In that you mention, " in all cases that blue light promoted the expression of fluorescent pigmentation most effectively. Green light ran second best in promoting fluorescent pigment production, although the filter used by these researchers transmitted a fair amount of blue light."

I note in most light bulbs green is seldom "high" and usually on par with red. (i.e. Radion AB setting has green and red set to 24 and that is the highest you ever see green being introduced) So could it be a question of the type of light that reaches the corals versus intensity (PAR) or even a combination - if intensity (PAR) is X then Green must = Y AND Blue must = Z?? Sorry if i am getting you off track please feel free PM me if you feel this will get to far offtrack.

I didn’t know that green was useful to corals.
 

wopadobop

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The seneye is a great little meter. My only issue with it is i need a laptop to use the dang thing. And I’m not paying them extra money for a feature that is built into anything including my pencil these days. That was short sided on their part.
 

wopadobop

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I didn’t know that green was useful to corals.

It plays a very small role in photosynthesis. Most plants are green because they have developed to reflect green wave lengths. As far as coral coloration and growth. I’ll leave that to the real scientists.
 

Da Ghost

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Y
The seneye is a great little meter. My only issue with it is i need a laptop to use the dang thing. And I’m not paying them extra money for a feature that is built into anything including my pencil these days. That was short sided on their part.
Yeah, I bought the bundle - wifey never suspected a thing ;)
 

Da Ghost

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I didn’t know that green was useful to corals.
Don't feel bad, neither did I till I read the article. I would guess many reefers typically only recognize Blue. I only focused on blue, but the article changes things a touch for me. While I dare not experiment in the display tank, it does open the door for another test tank....I will do it for science :)
 

DMan

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The BRS videos on par and spectrum analysis of different fixtures is pretty handy. Gives you a rough idea of what to expect.
 

wopadobop

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Don't feel bad, neither did I till I read the article. I would guess many reefers typically only recognize Blue. I only focused on blue, but the article changes things a touch for me. While I dare not experiment in the display tank, it does open the door for another test tank....I will do it for science :)

Wait there was an article here somewhere ? Back up back up what did I not see ?
 

stevieduk

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Well for the longest time I didn't have access to a Par meter. I have my two Kessil A360WE's over my 40 breeder, and I was scared as hell to burn or bleach my corals. So I never turned the intensity up past 30% When I finally did get a par meter, I found out that nowhere in the tank went over 80 Par. Yet I had SPS corals that were growing (very slowly, but they were growing) Jedi Mind Trick Monti, Reverse Superman Monti, Red Cap monti, Sunset monti, Tri color acro, and strawberry shortcake acro. Since then cranked it up to almost 70% and getting around 250-300 par at my SPS and everything is taking off and growing faster than I ever could have imagined.
the par meter that you use , is it a waterproof one ? I can only find them for the intended use of horticulture at around $120.00
 

Crabs McJones

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iemsparticus

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Yes, I took my original measurements using this one that a local reefer let me use. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mq-200-quantum-separate-sensor-with-handheld-meter.html
I have since then bought a seneye.
Crabs, that’s a great acro pic you’ve got as your avatar... but how am I supposed to instantly recognize you without the Tamatoa pic? ;)

Back to the topic at hand: I use the Seneye also, and it is great. I will say that I’m getting the feeling more and more folks are going to be able to forego a PAR meter with all of the information folks like the BRS team are releasing... I think we’re beginning to approach a lot more plug and play with LEDs, which is awesome.
 

Crabs McJones

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Crabs, that’s a great acro pic you’ve got as your avatar... but how am I supposed to instantly recognize you without the Tamatoa pic? ;)

Back to the topic at hand: I use the Seneye also, and it is great. I will say that I’m getting the feeling more and more folks are going to be able to forego a PAR meter with all of the information folks like the BRS team are releasing... I think we’re beginning to approach a lot more plug and play with LEDs, which is awesome.
I may have to bring back Tamatoa by popular demand, you're not the first to mention it ;)
 

DLuce510

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In a talk done by Jason Fox he explained his methodology on lighting. By no means the rule but it sure gets results!
Primarily blue spectrum for shorter hours high off the water level. He explains most of the corals we get in the hobby (or atleast what he collects) are on cliffs deep down that really only get directish light for a couple of hours at most. FWIW
Great thread.
 

kennedpa

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We've been coloring up "difficult" to color corals with radion G4 pros running AB+ coral lab program at 100% with fixtures 20" off tank (2 over a 40B). Corals that have colored very well include WD and vivids. Had no idea PAR was so low at 180-200 (PUR around 70%) until the other day. I did drop the fixture height because growth could be faster but coloration wise we've had zero issues bringing them out.
 

Bronx19

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It does make you think when you see these facilities with all their lights feet above the tanks. The PAR cant be very high at all at these heights, but they grow.
 

SashimiTurtle

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2 A160WEs 6.5" over a 20" cube. 12 hour photo period(1100-2300) with a 4 hour peak(1500-1900) at 35% intensity. Peak color is 30%.

Theses are on the sand bed and loving life.

20171208_185937.jpg
 

SashimiTurtle

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I may have to bring back Tamatoa by popular demand, you're not the first to mention it ;)

Well, Tamatoa hasn't always been this glam
I was a drab little crab once
Now I know I can be happy as a clam
Because I'm beautiful, baby

Favorite song on Moana...
 

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