Which test kits needed first, for corals

[SteveMM62Reef]

For the pH get a Pinpoint Marine Monitor, and the Nine Volt Battery Eliminator or more Preferably a Pinpoint Marine Controller if you want to Auto Dose Kalk, or use a Kalk Reactor** in the Future.
** I found you can’t go much below 120 Gallons total capacity to use a Kalk Reactor, at least not with my Koralline. With that Monitor, you can just use a API pH Test, if you have a funny reading off of the Pinpoint.

 

[Fish Fan]

I'm just going to point out that while you mentioned corals, if your tank is brand new you may need to test at least ammonia and nitrate, and ideally nitrite too. This is for when your new tank is going through its initial ammonia cycle. This would be before you get corals, but is a pretty important step if you're setting up a brand new tank.

And the Hanna Checkers are very popular. I would suggest that you look for them on the used equipment for sale forum. I see these come up all the time for ~$40. Sometimes you'll find someone selling like 3 for $100. If you're just getting started and on a tight budget, take a look at used gear from other R2R members here:

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/selling-forum-dry-goods.60/

Good luck!

 

[Dom]

I'm just going to point out that while you mentioned corals, if your tank is brand new you may need to test at least ammonia and nitrate, and ideally nitrite too. This is for when your new tank is going through its initial ammonia cycle. This would be before you get corals, but is a pretty important step if you're setting up a brand new tank.

And the Hanna Checkers are very popular. I would suggest that you look for them on the used equipment for sale forum. I see these come up all the time for ~$40. Sometimes you'll find someone selling like 3 for $100. If you're just getting started and on a tight budget, take a look at used gear from other R2R members here:

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/selling-forum-dry-goods.60/

Good luck!

I believe Nitrites aren't a concern in fresh water only.

 

[Fish Fan]

I believe Nitrites aren't a concern in fresh water only.

Yeah, I've heard that nitrite is not really dangerous in saltwater, that's why I mentioned testing for ammonia and nitrate first. But I'm old school, and was always told that nitrite is harmful, so I have always tested for it, but strictly speaking it's probably not necessary. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

I should have mentioned, I never check for Alkalinity, yes NEVER! The Varying readings just stressed me out. I modified an Air Pump to bring air from outside, to force air into my Skimmers, as High CO2 was causing the problems.

 

[Dom]

Yeah, I've heard that nitrite is not really dangerous in saltwater, that's why I mentioned testing for ammonia and nitrate first. But I'm old school, and was always told that nitrite is harmful, so I have always tested for it, but strictly speaking it's probably not necessary. Thanks for pointing that out.

You did say Nitrate. I read Nitrite. My bad.

 

[GARRIGA]

Salinity and alk measurement are the two most important things, along with temperature.

I would not even get a magnesium kit on a new tank.

Most will recommend that needed with a tank full of sticks yet all tend to start with a few one inch frags and those kits likely have expired long before they would have mattered.

I would however add nitrates and phosphates depending on WC schedule or lack of. Those will rise long before those frags

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I should have mentioned, I never check for Alkalinity, yes NEVER! The Varying readings just stressed me out. I modified an Air Pump to bring air from outside, to force air into my Skimmers, as High CO2 was causing the problems.

You sure you are not talking about pH?

Never measuring alkalinity might possibly work out, but aeration has little to do with it.

 

[Bruce Burnett]

Would you suggest waiting, saving up for all tests at once, and not testing in the meantime for anything?

Salinity is required so you know your mix is correct. Alkalinity also for mix and is used the most. On a new tank if you are doing regular water changes everything else can wait for a year.

 

[Bruce Burnett]

I'm a newb with saltwater. I'm going through a grind trying to get a good reading on salinity. I use a refractometer and one of those "pen" types. I misread the pen by thinking my salinity was way high and removed a bunch of water and replaced with RODI then didn't think my corals looked happy and got the refractometer out and it didn't look way off but it wasn't calibrated correctly. Now I have calibrating fluid but it's been about a month long process of bringing it back up without driving my tank crazy. The refractometer I have is hard for me to read so I'm searching for something that is accurate and I can actually read what its telling me.

A Milwaukee digital is easy to read and accurate enough to maintain stability.

 

[fushi]

I'm a newb with saltwater. I'm going through a grind trying to get a good reading on salinity. I use a refractometer and one of those "pen" types. I misread the pen by thinking my salinity was way high and removed a bunch of water and replaced with RODI then didn't think my corals looked happy and got the refractometer out and it didn't look way off but it wasn't calibrated correctly. Now I have calibrating fluid but it's been about a month long process of bringing it back up without driving my tank crazy. The refractometer I have is hard for me to read so I'm searching for something that is accurate and I can actually read what its telling me.

Just remember every time a test is way off, double check and try fight the urge to "get it right" fast. Its usually the "rapid fix" that causes most problems in a new tank.

I have been happy with my hannah pen. Not cheap but is super easy.


Don't forget to calibrate it though.

 

[TWYOUNG]

I went with Hanna for Nitrate and Phosphate ULR. I'm using Salifert for Ca and Alk.

I think the Hanna's are worth their weight in gold for tests where you would otherwise be trying to decipher between shades of color. With Ca and Alk you're just looking for a color change which as long as you're not color blind is easy.

Agree 100%, and Hanna's calcium is not up to the standards of their other testers.

 

[Dburr1014]

For the pH get a Pinpoint Marine Monitor, and the Nine Volt Battery Eliminator or more Preferably a Pinpoint Marine Controller if you want to Auto Dose Kalk, or use a Kalk Reactor** in the Future.
** I found you can’t go much below 120 Gallons total capacity to use a Kalk Reactor, at least not with my Koralline. With that Monitor, you can just use a API pH Test, if you have a funny reading off of the Pinpoint.

This advice is probably years down the line. But why can't you use a calcium reactor below 120 gallons? My systems only 100 and I've been using it for about 5 years I guess. Just curious.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

This advice is probably years down the line. But why can't you use a calcium reactor below 120 gallons? My systems only 100 and I've been using it for about 5 years I guess. Just curious.

Is yours a Koraline? I couldn’t get it dialed down enough to keep it from crashing my pH. Even had another hobbyist try, who had one on a 240 gallon Aquarium. I was coming off my return to fed it, he suggested I get a small luft pump to feed if, still didn’t work, on my 90 gallon.

 

[Dburr1014]

Is yours a Koraline? I couldn’t get it dialed down enough to keep it from crashing my pH. Even had another hobbyist try, who had one on a 240 gallon Aquarium. I was coming off my return to fed it, he suggested I get a small luft pump to feed if, still didn’t work, on my 90 gallon.

No, not a koraline.
I feed with a kamoer pump. If you're crashing ph you might be using to much co2. Did you measure your effluent?