Brew12
Electrical Gru
Not sure if you saw my question, but do you own a meter you can use to test resistance with?
wiring PCI cl280 chiller
- Thread starter tigre44
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Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
If you can trace all wires , write down where they end. Your making a pictorial schematic. Try to remember original control
Wiring . Many times I just bypass controller. And use external controller. Not hard to do. Only thing you can only have cooling control. No heater.
Wiring . Many times I just bypass controller. And use external controller. Not hard to do. Only thing you can only have cooling control. No heater.
Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
I saw the red and blue on rear of controller. This is a guess, blue may be cooling circuit, red heating circuit. A hunch
Yes I have a Fluke 73 meter. I can read Ohms
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Not sure what I was thinking... most chiller controllers don't use internal power but this one must. We will need to take voltage readings.
I think it is safe to say that since the controller section lights up and works that the power in (black cable) must be correct.
Since it is reading temperature the sensor cable (gray cable) must be correct.
That only leaves the two black wires. My guess is that the right black wire will need to be lifted and put in the empty spot right of the red wire in the black cable.
Before doing that, I think it would be best to check voltages with the meter.
I would disconnect both black wires to the transformer and take an AC voltage reading between the terminals they connect through. Take this reading with temperature below the setpoint and above the setpoint.
Compare this to a voltage taken between these two terminals.
OK got new fuses so here goes.
Controller in non heat/cool mode
2 blk leads to controller transformer disconnected no power to controller
2 blk leads connected @ transformer 11.6 volts at leads connection to the controller
2 hvy red and gray leads disconnected have 110 volts at wires and approx .9 volts at controller where the leads were previously connected
have power to controller
Controller in heat mode
2 hvy red and gray leads disconnected from controller 110 volts
connections at controller where leads would have been connected 0 volts
2 blk leads at controller transformer still 11.6 volts
reconnect red and grays wires compressor runs
Controller in cool mode
2 hvy red and gray leads disconnected 110 volts. Connections at controller about .02 volts again with wires disconnected
2 blk leads to controller transformer still 11.6 volts
compressor does not run with all wires reconnected
I hear a audible click in the controller each time it goes into either heat or cool mode
Controller in non heat/cool mode
2 blk leads to controller transformer disconnected no power to controller
2 blk leads connected @ transformer 11.6 volts at leads connection to the controller
2 hvy red and gray leads disconnected have 110 volts at wires and approx .9 volts at controller where the leads were previously connected
have power to controller
Controller in heat mode
2 hvy red and gray leads disconnected from controller 110 volts
connections at controller where leads would have been connected 0 volts
2 blk leads at controller transformer still 11.6 volts
reconnect red and grays wires compressor runs
Controller in cool mode
2 hvy red and gray leads disconnected 110 volts. Connections at controller about .02 volts again with wires disconnected
2 blk leads to controller transformer still 11.6 volts
compressor does not run with all wires reconnected
I hear a audible click in the controller each time it goes into either heat or cool mode
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Edit.. nevermind... figured this part out....
Last edited:
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Let me try this again.... I have a good idea what is going on now. The red and gray (black jacket) isn't power in. It is a way to stop current flow through a dry contact on the controller. We got this!!!
Disconnect both of these leads and move them aside. Be careful not to shock yourself on them!
Take a resistance reading (ohms) between these points with the leads lifted. I expect it to be close to 0 ohm in heat mode and probably an error in cool mode.
Also take a resistance between these two points in both heat and cooling mode.
If this is near 0 ohms in cool mode and an error or very high in heat mode you can connect the red and gray wires here and it should work.
Disconnect both of these leads and move them aside. Be careful not to shock yourself on them!
Take a resistance reading (ohms) between these points with the leads lifted. I expect it to be close to 0 ohm in heat mode and probably an error in cool mode.
Also take a resistance between these two points in both heat and cooling mode.
If this is near 0 ohms in cool mode and an error or very high in heat mode you can connect the red and gray wires here and it should work.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
If you don't get the anticipated readings above, try taking a resistance between these two points. Again, if you get near zero in cool mode and an error or high in heat mode then this would be the correct location to connect the red and gray wires.
Brew 12 thanks for your help switching those two wires did the trick thanks for being patient with me and guiding me through this again thanks!!!If you don't get the anticipated readings above, try taking a resistance between these two points. Again, if you get near zero in cool mode and an error or high in heat mode then this would be the correct location to connect the red and gray wires.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Glad to help, I enjoy a good challenge!
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