Wood glue and pocket screws how to remove
- Thread starter Rrb1399
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Plywood? If that's 3/4 ply, you missed by about 3/8? I'd take out all but the bottom one or two screws and start (at first gently) tapping it with a mallet. Use a piece of scrap 2x4 to prevent marring the wood. it should break free enough to move back into place, then use a little more glue and screw it down where it belongs.
mike550
Valuable Member
Rimmed or rimless? If it has a rim, it's designed to be supported only along the perimeter. If it's rimless, the entire bottom needs to be supported so a couple cross braces under a 3/4 plywood top would be a good idea.
Softhammer
Valuable Member
I’d personally start over. It’s well known that properly glued joints are actually stronger than the base wood itself. If the glue dried there’s no way that’s coming apart without splitting the ply. Chalk it up to learning, everyone whose ever built a proper cabinet has done it. It will be worth the time and effort to redo as the mangled ply will be all you see as you look at the tank.
Rrb1399
Active Member
So it worked !! I scored the short section of glue took out the screws and a couple of taps with the mallet on a block of wood and she opened up . I pulled apart gently enough to get glue in the gap made some new holes and it pulled together thanks for the tips guys now just reinforce the top inside perimeter and I should be on my way ! Next will be some sort of false wall to hide wires so if you guys have any tips for that I’d appreciate it
If you are going to start building things with pocket screws often you may want to invest in a couple of good clamps to make sure nothing moves while gluing and attaching the pocket screws. Even some low cost harbor freight ones would work.
Rrb1399
Active Member
Yeah I saw some good ones that attach to a threaded pipe . They can get expensive . My next tool will be a new table saw with the stand . My chop saw is new but no matter how I square the fence up the first half inch gets a weird slant to it I’m going to try a better blade
Softhammer
Valuable Member
I highly recommend the DeWalt portable contractor table saws. The geared fence on them is friggin amazing. Super accurate and has a 32” rip width. Totally worth the $$$. If you want the best blade also, go get a Forrest. The diablos are ehh, ive somehow managed to chip the carbide blade tips on 4 of them now without hitting nails.
Rrb1399
Active Member
Some updates stand is super strong and I bondo the edges smooth probably overkill but what the heck I’m proud of this . I put three 1x4 s across the top do you think this plus the 3/4 mdf I plan on using for the top is good enough ? Or would you put a few side braces of 1x4 ? I feel like if I do that I’ll loose the whole point of a plywood stand !
Attachments
It may be good enough if the top extends over the top of the plywood sides, since it is only 600lbs or so. But I always like to have all the weight over wood (in compression) and not rely on screws or glue to support the weight (i.e. vertical boards directly under the interior wood frame, maybe a 1x4 in all four corners ). The bigger issue might be the mdf, it is nice and flat but not a good combination with water, you may want to reconsider and use 3/4" plywood then waterproof it.
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