New tank and I’m battling algae. I’ve had Dinoflagellates in the past, due to letting my Nitrates and Phosphates fall to zero, so I’m afraid for that to happen again (beat them with alot of help from the people on this forum). But I am in a cycle of adding nitrogen and phosphate (less when I overfeed), and in a day (sometimes two) I’m back to zero phosphates. I have taken all phosphate absorbers out of the tank (2 months ago), so I think the algae is just using up the phosphates, and that’s why I get back to zero in 24 hours or so. Should I keep adding phosphate? Seems stupid to keep adding something that’s fueling my algae problem, but I’m just scared of Dinos coming back. Any advice?
zero phosphates a problem?
- Thread starter KnightlyBuzz
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Waters
"...in perfect isolation, here behind my wall."
If you have algae actively growing, you most likely have enough phosphates. I wouldn't worry too much about the low numbers until you stop seeing algae growth on the glass and rocks.
Jamesrup0411
Well-Known Member
What are you adding for phosphate? In the same situation without algae though, so trying to find what I can dose
Waters
"...in perfect isolation, here behind my wall."
An easy way to increase phosphates is to feed any of the coral food like reef roids or reef chili. I feed twice a week following directions on container to keep my phosphates elevated....plus the coral likes it 
splitting_lanes
Active Member
Agreed. I was dosing nitrate & phosphate until I started feeding weekly with reef roids. In particular, it seems to bring up the phosphate.An easy way to increase phosphates is to feed any of the coral food like reef roids or reef chili. I feed twice a week following directions on container to keep my phosphates elevated....plus the coral likes it
schuby
Valuable Member
You don't give any background about your tank. Do you have any fish, corals, or inverts? Do you know your tank parameters? Do you dose anything? How do you export your nutrients?
KnightlyBuzz
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-You don't give any background about your tank.
8 months old, 40 gallon breeder with 15 gallon sump.
-Do you have any fish, corals, or inverts?
2 fish, clown & royal gramma, also a few snails, ordered more recently and they’re in a QT tank. Few coral in QT tank as well with the snails.
-Do you know your tank parameters?
Yes.
-Do you dose anything?
Alk in the QT tank. Nothing in display.
-How do you export your nutrients?
Other than water changes, I think the algae is taking up all the nutrients. Tried growing chaeto, but it slowly dies.
8 months old, 40 gallon breeder with 15 gallon sump.
-Do you have any fish, corals, or inverts?
2 fish, clown & royal gramma, also a few snails, ordered more recently and they’re in a QT tank. Few coral in QT tank as well with the snails.
-Do you know your tank parameters?
Yes.
-Do you dose anything?
Alk in the QT tank. Nothing in display.
-How do you export your nutrients?
Other than water changes, I think the algae is taking up all the nutrients. Tried growing chaeto, but it slowly dies.
1ByLand2BySea
Active Member
Zero phosphate can trigger the Dino to come back again in your tank, specially if you have been battling the Dino recently.
It might be a safer approach to remove the algae physically, use clean up crew and play around with your light to limit the growth of algae. If you physically reduce the amount of algae in your tank, the phosphate consumption will decrease and the PO4 level will come back up.
It might be a safer approach to remove the algae physically, use clean up crew and play around with your light to limit the growth of algae. If you physically reduce the amount of algae in your tank, the phosphate consumption will decrease and the PO4 level will come back up.
KnightlyBuzz
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I think you’re right. I’m going to adjust the lighting to limit the algae growth and increase my CUC.
The problem with removal is I have marco rocks (e.g., lots of cracks and crevices I can’t get my fingers into). I remove what I can, but not sure how to remove the algae growing out of the crevices. Any advice for removal from crevices?
The problem with removal is I have marco rocks (e.g., lots of cracks and crevices I can’t get my fingers into). I remove what I can, but not sure how to remove the algae growing out of the crevices. Any advice for removal from crevices?
1ByLand2BySea
Active Member
In addition to Snails, I would invest in a rather large number of Dwarf Hermits. May be 60-80 Atlantic Blue Tips or Mexican Red Tips. But don't mix them as Red Tips tend to be more aggressive toward competition.
KnightlyBuzz
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Thanks. I’ve been reluctant to get hermits because I’ve heard they can harass corals (tearing them to take food from them), but I may have to. Are dwarf hermits better than blue legs and scarlets? (Blue legs and scarlets seem the most popular from what I’ve read.)
1ByLand2BySea
Active Member
I have never had any issues with red tip or blue dwarfs in many years of reefing. Blue Tips or Blue Legs are the same.
The advantage of the dwarfs is that they are much smaller that scarlets and get into places that scarlets can't get.
KnightlyBuzz
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Awesome, thanks, looking forward to getting me some! Few questions...
1) I only have a 40 gallon tank, do I really need 60?
2) Do you keep empty shells for them? If so, who do you get them from?
3) Do you have snails as well, or just the hermits?
Thanks for your help!
1) I only have a 40 gallon tank, do I really need 60?
2) Do you keep empty shells for them? If so, who do you get them from?
3) Do you have snails as well, or just the hermits?
Thanks for your help!
1ByLand2BySea
Active Member
Larger numbers will attach the algae quick and give you a better control of the situation. Also the type of the rock that you have might require more work by the clean up crew. Once the amount of algae is reduced, some hermits may not make it due to scarcity of the food but leave a few empty shells around for them if they need to move.
I don't know what type of algae you have but I always keep a verity of different type of CUC as some do a better job at certain type of algae than others. Definitely add some snails too.
60 - 80 hermits in a 40 gallon seems way overkill to me.
If you have hair algae growing in your tank then you have phosphates present. As other have stated above reducing your photoperiod and manual removal should help but back the HA. Once you get a handle on the HA you should start to see detectable levels of Po4.
If you have hair algae growing in your tank then you have phosphates present. As other have stated above reducing your photoperiod and manual removal should help but back the HA. Once you get a handle on the HA you should start to see detectable levels of Po4.
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