Zoas and torch not opening

ajremington68

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Hey, question so I bought some new zoas from my lfs about 2 weeks ago and a new double head torch about a week ago, now I already have some zoas and a single head torch. Problem is the torch hasn’t opened really and extended has a good flesh line around the Skelton though, and the zoas haven’t opened at all for two weeks and my older zoas open sometimes and then some time don’t. Has anybody also rain into this problem, have done a 10% water change tank is under half a year old around 5-6 months parameters are all good calcium at 380 but I dosed to get it up always around 380-420 wjth a decent amount of corals. Debating a magnesium problem being the cause, but I’m not sure anybody got any ideas?
 

Tray21

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Also list all parameters as of last test. This will help those that are much wiser than me to get a better idea of whats going on.
 

williamCreery

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Is your flow enough? Or is it too harsh?

And magnesium sounds much like the problem. Even some hardy corals can’t take below a curtain amount a mix reef should be nothing as low as 1200 before it gets worse. You may need to dose magnesium if it’s low. Keep an eye on it.

I’ve had a similar experience with magnesium last year. I dosed for 4 months because every 2 days it would drop from 1320 to 1205 lost the Red Dragon acro due to it guaranteed with even a high end test done by my local LFS. Some strange sort of establishing magnesium balance was occurring in that period? Or so all too many corals at once were supplementing like crazy. Still stunned till this day due to that experience. I would even do a 50% water change before dosing to make sure it up there in the 1300’s
 
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ajremington68

ajremington68

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Is your flow enough? Or is it too harsh?

And magnesium sounds much like the problem. Even some hardy corals can’t take below a curtain amount a mix reef should be nothing as low as 1200 before it gets worse. You may need to dose magnesium if it’s low. Keep an eye on it.

I’ve had a similar experience with magnesium last year. I dosed for 4 months because every 2 days it would drop from 1320 to 1205 lost the Red Dragon acro due to it guaranteed with even a high end test done by my local LFS. Some strange sort of establishing magnesium balance was occurring in that period? Or so all too many corals at once were supplementing like crazy. Still stunned till this day due to that experience. I would even do a 50% water change before dosing to make sure it up there in the 1300’s
I have a mag test kit from salifert Coming soon from Amazon and from what I’ve researched and tested a common cause of sad hammers, torch’s, and frogspawn is low magnesium, I don’t want to pay for a lfs to test it so should be soon, once I get home I’ll take some pictures and tag everyone to give me a opinion
 
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ajremington68

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60155414-2492-42F5-8AC5-450C7C82E888.jpeg
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2020 Worst Year

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Pictures and parameters are there, lighting is 115 tested under par and flow is on the light end I believe they have movement but not as much as I see others, plan to slowly ramp up some. @Nor391 @2020 Worst Year
hammer next to it could be stinging it can't mix torches with hammers or frogspawn but you can mix hammers with frogspawn
 

2020 Worst Year

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maybe not tho as the zoas are not opening either i once had a torch that took 1 week to open just give it time i guess

the hammer stinging it is the only possibility i can see from pics
 
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ajremington68

ajremington68

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maybe not tho as the zoas are not opening either i once had a torch that took 1 week to open just give it time i guess

the hammer stinging it is the only possibility i can see from pics
Alrighty, strange, we see if it is the magnesium if it is or isn’t I will be back and inform for anybody else dealing with this in the future
 

EricR

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Since your existing corals look good, I'd personally not do anything and wonder if it's just a change in lighting/flow/parameters from what they were used to at your LFS.
*2 weeks with no improvement is getting to about the point where I might start worrying though
 
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ajremington68

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Your salt is deff high I would try to get to 1.025……most LFS keep there salt even lower to help combat sickness.
To be honest this is my BIGGEST battle, I have an ATO ready to install just need to get a container for my resovir. But on my water changes, I'll mix salt but it'll be at like 1.015-1.020, and after a day I test and it's at 1.027 still, so frustrating, debating pulling like 2.5 gallons and replacing it with rodi water, but what if my salinity does a huge swing? Ugh, what to do what to do.
 
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ajremington68

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Since your existing corals look good, I'd personally not do anything and wonder if it's just a change in lighting/flow/parameters from what they were used to at your LFS.
*2 weeks with no improvement is getting to about the point where I might start worrying though
With the torch, he is slowly extending more and more, I'm very impatient, and one of my more expensive corals so just want to get others' opinions, now the zoas I have had some for only a week while others I have had for 2-3weeks and they are just wishy-washy on opening, maybe it's just the time game, and it's all I really can do because I have a dedicated part in my tank for a "zoa garden" so not much moving around Im willing to do.
 

vetteguy53081

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Some will shrink if getting irritated by sand, too little flow which is needed to keep sediment off of them. High nitrates and Phosphates, too much light and lack of feeding. If using NoPox, that too can irritate them - A few things to check
 
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ajremington68

ajremington68

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Some will shrink if getting irritated by sand, too little flow which is needed to keep sediment off of them. High nitrates and Phosphates, too much light and lack of feeding. If using NoPox, that too can irritate them - A few things to check
if they are closed but you can see a little bit of color peaking out, should you still spray little reef roids on them in your humble opinion?
 

vetteguy53081

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if they are closed but you can see a little bit of color peaking out, should you still spray little reef roids on them in your humble opinion?
I feed mine brine and mysis shrimp but roids will work- Assure the roids arent raising Phos to high levels. Try giving them Gentle blasts from a turkey baster and see if sediment flies off .
Adding occasional iodide ( which they convert to iodine ) is also helpful
 

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