My 57 Rimless

kschweer

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This is Awesome. So this Manifold is basically coming from the return pump? can you tell me what fittings were used? Im setting up a zeovit system and I wanted to connect the media reactor and carbon. also wondering if i can connect a calcium reactor as well.

Correct. It's really simple to do. That is not my picture just one I found that showed the manifold easily. You're basically "T-ing" off of your return line and using a ball valve to regulate flow to what you are feeding from the T. Fittings will differ depending on what you are connecting to do it will more than likely be a nipple for poly pipe, push connect (john guest) for that type of tubing or pvc. Like I said just depends on what you need to connect to your reactor or whatever else you're feeding. I am not very familiar with calcium reactors so someone more versed in those can hopefully chime in on that. Here's a picture of my plumbing at the time of the picture the only thing connected was my skimmer. It now feeds my carbon/gfo reactor as well.

ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1421251321.403595.jpg


And before connecting any ball valves
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1421251367.874396.jpg


If you look around through some build threads there are some better examples than mine. This is just what worked best with my limited space.
 
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ReefCartel

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Correct. It's really simple to do. That is not my picture just one I found that showed the manifold easily. You're basically "T-ing" off of your return line and using a ball valve to regulate flow to what you are feeding from the T. Fittings will differ depending on what you are connecting to do it will more than likely be a nipple for poly pipe, push connect (john guest) for that type of tubing or pvc. Like I said just depends on what you need to connect to your reactor or whatever else you're feeding. I am not very familiar with calcium reactors so someone more versed in those can hopefully chime in on that. Here's a picture of my plumbing at the time of the picture the only thing connected was my skimmer. It now feeds my carbon/gfo reactor as well.

ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1421251321.403595.jpg


And before connecting any ball valves
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1421251367.874396.jpg


If you look around through some build threads there are some better examples than mine. This is just what worked best with my limited space.

Thank you. Really helpful
 
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rboutin111

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Nothing to exciting to report on at this time. I've just been prepping the stand for paint. If you ever need to fill nail holes always us two part wood filler. Do not use wood putty. I also picked up more materials to build the doors. I hope to have the stand completed on Sunday.
IMG_3211.jpg
 
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rboutin111

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Last night I worked late on the top. I made it out of 2x8 vertical grain douglas fir. I tried my hand at a 1/4" inlay. It's something I've been wanting to try for a long time. I'm still not sure it is 100% appropriate with douglas fir, but at least I get to try it.

I routed out 5/8" out of the back to reduce my reveal on my face frame. I went with a 1 1/4" overhang. I'll run a 5/8" scotia underneath.
IMG_3218.jpg


5 1/4" of this frame will be seen the other 2" will be covered up by the tank.
IMG_3222.jpg


Here's a detail shot of the inlay. What do you think? Once I put a tongue oil on it I think it will look much better.
IMG_3223.jpg


I also made myself a routing table at the same time. It was really easy to make. If you have a router you should certainly make yourself a table.
IMG_3219.jpg
 

d2mini

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Amazing work on that stand!!! You obviously have skills.

And you're getting great advise from everyone else.
Looking forward to more of this build.
 
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rboutin111

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Amazing work on that stand!!! You obviously have skills.

And you're getting great advise from everyone else.
Looking forward to more of this build.

Thank you!!!

The advise from everyone is amazing. I'm so appreciated of it. I'm going to need a lot more once I start the plumbing.
 
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rboutin111

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I'm making good progress on the stand. Should have the painting done today. I was going to two tone it with the Richardson Brick Red on the exterior and Battleship Grey on the interior, but I don't like painting and suck at cutting edges. So one color it is. The red is the same color we used on all our exterior doors. It's a great historical red.

IMG_3224.jpg


IMG_3224.jpg
 
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rboutin111

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I have a question. The overflow on my tank has a curved front that projects out from the sides of the overflow an additional 2". I'm wondering if I can cut the curved portion out and replace it will a flat piece? I'd love to gain those extra 2" for tank inhabitants. Also would the slots in the two side panels be enough for the overflow? I don't expect to have a high turnover for my overflow.

IMG_6420.jpg


As you can see the holes are lined up with the center of the two side panels. I don't see any reason to have this much space in the overflow. Do you?
IMG_6421.jpg



 

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Why not just buy three pieces of black acrylic and make your own overflow?
 

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I love your stand. I'd use extreme caution if you plan on pulling the overflow. If I'm not mistaken, Deep Blue installs the overflow at the same time as the glass panels, if you cut the silicon to the overflow it might affect the integrity of the glass seal.
 
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rboutin111

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Why not just buy three pieces of black acrylic and make your own overflow?
I'm not sure it's necessary to scrap it all. The sides and the front curved portion at three separate pieces that at silicone together. Maybe I should get my plumbing in there to see how much room it takes up before cutting anything out.

I love your stand. I'd use extreme caution if you plan on pulling the overflow. If I'm not mistaken, Deep Blue installs the overflow at the same time as the glass panels, if you cut the silicon to the overflow it might affect the integrity of the glass seal.
I really only want to remove the curved piece on the front. That is only connected to the bottom piece of glass. I don't see that affecting the overall integrity of the tank do you?
 
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rboutin111

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Here are some current photos of the stand. I need to put one or two more coats of finish on the top then build and paint the doors.

IMG_6423.jpg

IMG_6422.jpg

IMG_6424.jpg

IMG_6425.jpg

IMG_6426.jpg
 

Rob.D

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I really only want to remove the curved piece on the front. That is only connected to the bottom piece of glass. I don't see that affecting the overall integrity of the tank do you?

I don't think it would bother any, very interested to see it replaced. The only reason I've not bought the same tank is due to the overflow.
 
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rboutin111

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Correct. It's really simple to do. That is not my picture just one I found that showed the manifold easily. You're basically "T-ing" off of your return line and using a ball valve to regulate flow to what you are feeding from the T. Fittings will differ depending on what you are connecting to do it will more than likely be a nipple for poly pipe, push connect (john guest) for that type of tubing or pvc. Like I said just depends on what you need to connect to your reactor or whatever else you're feeding. I am not very familiar with calcium reactors so someone more versed in those can hopefully chime in on that. Here's a picture of my plumbing at the time of the picture the only thing connected was my skimmer. It now feeds my carbon/gfo reactor as well.

ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1421251321.403595.jpg


And before connecting any ball valves
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1421251367.874396.jpg


If you look around through some build threads there are some better examples than mine. This is just what worked best with my limited space.

Questions for you. Did your tank come with an overflow kit? There are two holes a 1.5" and a 2". It appears that you used the 1.5" for you overflow and the 2" for your return? Do you have any pictures of you overflow within the DT? Is your overflow noisy?
 

LILBUDDHA

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I'm not sure it's necessary to scrap it all. The sides and the front curved portion at three separate pieces that at silicone together. Maybe I should get my plumbing in there to see how much room it takes up before cutting anything out.


I really only want to remove the curved piece on the front. That is only connected to the bottom piece of glass. I don't see that affecting the overall integrity of the tank do you?

Agreed . That's one of the downsides of a DBP tank . It's a great tank imho but they use the same overflow box for the 75 and 57 . Please do not use the bulkheads that came with the overflow kit . Get some quality ones at the lfs . I can't emphasize this enough .
U definitely have that NE flavor of woodworking skills.It would also be a good idea to make some sort of dry/ato equipment cabinet .If the ato is mostly sealed except for the exit line ,there is little to no damage to electronics. There is nothing worse than seeing corrosion/moisture damage to an expensive controller ,vortech's etc . Are you putting in computer dc fans in the sump cabinet to help keep it dryer ? Looking good.
 
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