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00W's AIO Smorgasbord

Aquarium Profile and Equipment

What type of saltwater aquarium is this?
Mixed Reef
Total Water Volume
115
When did you start this tank?
Jun 16, 2015
What is your aquarium made of?
Glass
Aquarium Length (inches)
48
Aquarium Width (inches)
18
Aquarium Height (inches)
24
Aquarium Overflow/Drain
Drain Style (durso, herbie, etc)
Aquarium Sump
YES
Sump Water Volume
20
Aquarium Stand
Wood
Aquarium Controller
NO
Protein Skimmer
NO
Protein Skimmer Make and Model
Lifereef vs3-24
Aquarium Reactors
  1. None
Return Pump
Eheim compaction 3000
What types of equipment are you using for water flow and circulation?
  1. Powerhead
  2. Wavemaker
Water Flow and Circulation Equipment List
Jebao OW 20 x2, OW10, Jebao 1300, 2 sicce small WaveMaker.
Aquarium Lighting
  1. T5 Fluorescent
  2. Natural Sunlight
Lighting Equipment List
Odyssea T5 HO fixture
Lighting PAR and Goals
Low
Dosing Equipment Detail
None
Auto Top Off or ATO
NO
Aquarium Heating and Cooling
  1. I am using a heater or heaters
Water Temperature
77
Heating and Cooling Equipment Detail
Eheim 300w with ink bird controller

Aquarium Water Chemistry and Parameters

pH Level
8.3
Specific Gravity
1.027
Nitrate or NO3
19
Phosphate or PO4
1.12
Calcium
440
Alkalinity
7
Magnesium
1300
Salt Brand
Red sea blue bucket
Trace Element Dosing
Kent essential elements

Aquarium Natural and Mechanical Filtration

Substrate
Bare Bottom (BB)
Substrate Level
No Substrate
Live Rock
75
Live Rock Type
Unknown
Nutrient Export
  1. Protein Skimmer
  2. Filter Sock
Water Changes
YES
Water Change Details
10% every Monday

Aquarium Tank Inhabitants (fish, coral, invert etc.)

Fish List
  1. Angelfish
  2. Clownfish
  3. Surgeonfish Tang
  4. Other Predatory
Total Fish
4
Coral List
  1. Zoanthids
  2. Soft Coral
  3. Mushroom Coral
  4. Other
Total Corals
6
Invert List
  1. Anemone
  2. Snails
  3. None
Total Inverts
0
Livestock Detail
Have a trigger which is not listed.
Livestock Quarantine
  1. No Quarantine

Aquarium Nutrition (fish, coral, invert etc. feeding)

Fish Feeding Frequency
Multiple Daily Feedings
Coral Feeding Frequency
Do Not Feed Coral Directly
Fish and Coral Feeding
  1. Flake
  2. Pellet
  3. Frozen
  4. Algae Strips
  5. Other
Auto Feeder
NO

Additional Aquarium Information

What do you think are the keys to your success in reefing?
Patience
2/1 ratio of tank water and 3% hydrogen peroxide (3% !!!!!!! ) for 8-10 minutes. Rinse with tank water and replace. It will take between 24-48 hours before you see it working and in 5-7 days the frag plug will be completely clean.
Thank you
 
Ok how do you guys do peroxide dips? I am finding lots of ways but trust you guys. I have some corals that are getting hair algea on them and I don't want the algea to cause them issues.
I don't peroxide dip - I prefer the Q-tip with peroxide and dab a little straight peroxide on the hair algae avoiding the coral. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so and then rinse and put back in the tank.
 
I don't peroxide dip - I prefer the Q-tip with peroxide and dab a little straight peroxide on the hair algae avoiding the coral. Let it sit for 5 minutes or so and then rinse and put back in the tank.
Too late for that method on most of then as the algea is actually on the coral. Some zoas, hammers, acros and firework polyps.
 
Too late for that method on most of then as the algea is actually on the coral. Some zoas, hammers, acros and firework polyps.
Zoas and clove polyps are pretty tolerant. I use a little bulb dropper and drop H2O2 right into the algae. Clears it up very fast with nothing remaining. I first bother the zoas a bit so that they close up first, then you can get the H2O2 inbetween their polyps right at the algae.

For acros, do you have a picture of the problem? GHA shouldn't be growing on flesh, so it sounds like the acros have some tissue necrosis allowing GHA to grow on skeleton. I'd go with @tbrown recommendations for this or continue with the 3% dip as advised earlier.

Algae in the hammer skeleton? I just use the dropper again, trying to avoid it going right into the head/polyps.
 
Generally when it's gha shouldn't the same coral fight it?
If there is any exposed skeleton, algae can latch on. For Euphyllia, their skeleton is fair game, but often not the best place since their polyps can shade out the skeleton. CUC tend to be able to clean it up too. Bubble algae can also be problematic when it comes to exposed skeletons.
 
And are there types of corals that should not be dipped?
I have only used it on zoa frags but I have dipped a toothbrush in undiluted and scrubbed other plugs as well as dosed the the tank.
 
If there is any exposed skeleton, algae can latch on. For Euphyllia, their skeleton is fair game, but often not the best place since their polyps can shade out the skeleton. CUC tend to be able to clean it up too. Bubble algae can also be problematic when it comes to exposed skeletons.
From time to time I get some in the zoas and palys but as you say, the cuc immediately goes and eliminates it, but I don't know why I get the idea that I read somewhere that if the coral is healthy it fights for nutrients and can eliminate gha too not letting it feed
 
From time to time I get some in the zoas and palys but as you say, the cuc immediately goes and eliminates it, but I don't know why I get the idea that I read somewhere that if the coral is healthy it fights for nutrients and can eliminate gha too not letting it feed
It won't kill the GHA, but if the tank is healthy and a good balance, the corals are usually happy. Happy corals can outcompete algae for nutrients. Unfortunately most healthy corals cannot grow over algae once the algae has taken a foothold, but healthy algae can irritate coral flesh to the point of recession and the algae will grow where the recession happened.
 
From time to time I get some in the zoas and palys but as you say, the cuc immediately goes and eliminates it, but I don't know why I get the idea that I read somewhere that if the coral is healthy it fights for nutrients and can eliminate gha too not letting it feed
My favorite for zoas is just my conch. I could put a completely hairy frag of zoas on the sand bed and the conch would clean it up overnight. In my algae-ous nano, I'd take them off the rocks and put them in the sand bed for a day if they got bad.
 
My favorite for zoas is just my conch. I could put a completely hairy frag of zoas on the sand bed and the conch would clean it up overnight. In my algae-ous nano, I'd take them off the rocks and put them in the sand bed for a day if they got bad.
Wow, I never thought of that. I’ll give that a try next time especially since I worry, at times, my conch might not have enough to eat. I occasionally throw an algae wafer in.
 
Too late for that method on most of then as the algea is actually on the coral. Some zoas, hammers, acros and firework polyps.
Are you positive there's nothing adding rust or iron to the water column? No rusty motors or magnets?

Rust caused a pretty aggressive GHA outbreak in one of my old tanks. And it wasn't a large amount of rust either.
 
Here are pictures of what I'm dealing with. I don't see algea on the hammers but I don't think they are opening as much as they should or maybe I'm wrong.
 

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Are you positive there's nothing adding rust or iron to the water column? No rusty motors or magnets?

Rust caused a pretty aggressive GHA outbreak in one of my old tanks. And it wasn't a large amount of rust either.
No I don't have any magnets and anything with a motor is relatively new.
 
Oh noooo. I loved my skunk too, then one day he was dead. So sorry John.
Thnx Walker, I'll probably go look for another creepy crawly to live under his old arch today.
 
Yeah unfortunately. I was hoping that's what it was. I found the poor guy doing a head stand on my cyphastrea frag, wrapped up by snails :(
Before I got my trigger I'd buy one every year and a half.
One day fine, next day no mas....
 
Here are pictures of what I'm dealing with. I don't see algea on the hammers but I don't think they are opening as much as they should or maybe I'm wrong.
Amanda, have you tried to corroborate your parameters with another type of test or in an LFS?
 
Let's say I get home, fill the tank with water and I see no leaks. Would I have to re-seal it or could I leave the current seal? I have no idea what the tank has been through or how old it is.
 

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