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00W's AIO Smorgasbord

Aquarium Profile and Equipment

What type of saltwater aquarium is this?
Mixed Reef
Total Water Volume
115
When did you start this tank?
Jun 16, 2015
What is your aquarium made of?
Glass
Aquarium Length (inches)
48
Aquarium Width (inches)
18
Aquarium Height (inches)
24
Aquarium Overflow/Drain
Drain Style (durso, herbie, etc)
Aquarium Sump
YES
Sump Water Volume
20
Aquarium Stand
Wood
Aquarium Controller
NO
Protein Skimmer
NO
Protein Skimmer Make and Model
Lifereef vs3-24
Aquarium Reactors
  1. None
Return Pump
Eheim compaction 3000
What types of equipment are you using for water flow and circulation?
  1. Powerhead
  2. Wavemaker
Water Flow and Circulation Equipment List
Jebao OW 20 x2, OW10, Jebao 1300, 2 sicce small WaveMaker.
Aquarium Lighting
  1. T5 Fluorescent
  2. Natural Sunlight
Lighting Equipment List
Odyssea T5 HO fixture
Lighting PAR and Goals
Low
Dosing Equipment Detail
None
Auto Top Off or ATO
NO
Aquarium Heating and Cooling
  1. I am using a heater or heaters
Water Temperature
77
Heating and Cooling Equipment Detail
Eheim 300w with ink bird controller

Aquarium Water Chemistry and Parameters

pH Level
8.3
Specific Gravity
1.027
Nitrate or NO3
19
Phosphate or PO4
1.12
Calcium
440
Alkalinity
7
Magnesium
1300
Salt Brand
Red sea blue bucket
Trace Element Dosing
Kent essential elements

Aquarium Natural and Mechanical Filtration

Substrate
Bare Bottom (BB)
Substrate Level
No Substrate
Live Rock
75
Live Rock Type
Unknown
Nutrient Export
  1. Protein Skimmer
  2. Filter Sock
Water Changes
YES
Water Change Details
10% every Monday

Aquarium Tank Inhabitants (fish, coral, invert etc.)

Fish List
  1. Angelfish
  2. Clownfish
  3. Surgeonfish Tang
  4. Other Predatory
Total Fish
4
Coral List
  1. Zoanthids
  2. Soft Coral
  3. Mushroom Coral
  4. Other
Total Corals
6
Invert List
  1. Anemone
  2. Snails
  3. None
Total Inverts
0
Livestock Detail
Have a trigger which is not listed.
Livestock Quarantine
  1. No Quarantine

Aquarium Nutrition (fish, coral, invert etc. feeding)

Fish Feeding Frequency
Multiple Daily Feedings
Coral Feeding Frequency
Do Not Feed Coral Directly
Fish and Coral Feeding
  1. Flake
  2. Pellet
  3. Frozen
  4. Algae Strips
  5. Other
Auto Feeder
NO

Additional Aquarium Information

What do you think are the keys to your success in reefing?
Patience
Also @WalkerLovesTheOcean I hope your golden boy is still doing well. Mine is toast sadly. That's why I'm asking about magnesium. The seller said this may have been the issue. I'm not so sure.
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Sorry John. Mine is still doing well. It could be the mag but I don't believe it is. My hammer didn't start suffering until I mag got around 110p I believe. Even then it did not get this bad, it just wouldn't open.

I can't tell from the photo, but does the hammer still have a flesh band? If it does then it could be the mag, but I still don't think so.

Have you seen any pests or fish nipping at it?
 
Good to know. I need to buy test kits now that I'm starting to add coral. Up to now I've just taken water to the LFS for testing (apart from ICP tests when I had the copper issue) and tried to keep up on water changes.
Hanna for alk, nitrate and phosphate are great IMO the best.
All the salifert are excellent but the above Hanna testers make it so simple.
I actually thought the seachem copper test was really good when I was having a copper issue years ago but it was sort of difficult to do.
Like everything, practice makes perfect and also makes for much more consistent results.
I've also used api ph and kh liquid tests and they were just fine
In fact api calcium test kit is very good too.
Just my 2 cents.
I've wasted a lot of money on bad test kits.
 
Do you dose straight mag or is it contained in all for reef? Sorry for all the questions lol
Mg from RedSea, all I dose is from Redsea, Sorry if it takes me a while to reply,
Alk, Ca and Trace Elements too
 
My oldest son recently bought season 1, so now this is stuck in my head. You've been warned.

Thanks a lot Wes now it's stuck in my head too! ;)
 
2 hours after the dip and additives, and it's looking way better. Before you could only see skeleton, the polyps were completely retracted.

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Goniopora need lots of food. Powdered coral food, phytoplankton and amino acids all work wonders (as you can see here). They also need trace elements like manganese, iron and iodine. If they don't have that, then of course they will die and that's why they have the reputation of being very hard to keep. Aquacultured ones do way better than wild caught ones. We'll see how my goni continues to do, but something worked because it's opening its tentacles.
 
I really like the system approach they are taking with this. Looks like a nice system.
I do also. It’s a completely modular system you can easily expand as needed with more panels or by adding the bars, which conveniently mount right to the light
 
Mg is one of the more important elements for corals and coralline algae. I find that if it gets down much below 1200 I'll start to see some coralline die off and the corals, especially the montis, don't grow as well. I shoot for around 1300-1450 but like others have said the test kits aren't that good. I use the Aquaforest test kit because a few years ago, when BRS was producing somewhat-not-overly-biased and semi-useful videos they tested most of the Mg test kits and the Aquaforest was the most repeatable. None of them are all that accurate so I rarely test. I rely on my 2-part to replenish a little daily and if the coralline or montis are looking a little off, I throw in a dose of Fritz RPM Mg. I'll usually test every few months and if still looks to be low give it another doze of the Fritz.
 
I do also. It’s a completely modular system you can easily expand as needed with more panels or by adding the bars, which conveniently mount right to the light
Are the T-Slots only on the sides for mounting the bars? Someday I'll upgrade my lights and this looks like a good contender. I run a T-Slot mounting bar over the tank and it doesn't look like it would be too hard to make an adapter to fit them to my T-Slot bar and then mount a bar at the front aimed toward the back wall.
 
@kingranch2003, you still have the goniopora, right?

I'd suggest doing an amino acids and coral food dip. See if that works for some polyp extension.
 
Are the T-Slots only on the sides for mounting the bars? Someday I'll upgrade my lights and this looks like a good contender. I run a T-Slot mounting bar over the tank and it doesn't look like it would be too hard to make an adapter to fit them to my T-Slot bar and then mount a bar at the front aimed toward the back wall.
The entire front and back edges are t slot

The top has two t slot channels as well, with 2 standoffs (threaded posts) in the front and rear. If you zoom in this pic they are slid far left

Sooo 4 built in t slot channels. Front and rear edges. And front / rear on top surface.
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Mag is actually pretty important. My mag got down to 1000 and my hammer definitely did not like it.

You can't have stable alk and ca without mag around the 1400 range. 1200 isn't that much of a concern but I would definitely raise it to at least 1350.
That sounds right Walker. That's what the vendor said EXACTLY ABOUT HAMMERS! Thanks buddy for your input on that.
 
The entire front and back edges are t slot

The top has two t slot channels as well, with 2 standoffs (threaded posts) in the front and rear. If you zoom in this pic they are slid far left

Sooo 4 built in t slot channels. Front and rear edges. And front / rear on top surface.
F6B85468-2B4E-4052-949F-1908EEE3F243.jpeg
These are definitely the future. I love my tank and am very happy with it, but nothing has made me want to start a new build more than this new lighting concept. I'm glad you brought this up. @VintageReefer
 
Sorry John. Mine is still doing well. It could be the mag but I don't believe it is. My hammer didn't start suffering until I mag got around 110p I believe. Even then it did not get this bad, it just wouldn't open.

I can't tell from the photo, but does the hammer still have a flesh band? If it does then it could be the mag, but I still don't think so.

Have you seen any pests or fish nipping at it?
No flesh band. And it hadn't been in the tank but for a couple days when this started. The seller said he'd replace it when he got another one like it. It is possible it wasn't my fault, but you know I just had that weird tank crash a little while back, and my hammers haven't fully recovered. I'm getting nervous and probably overreacting lol
 
The entire front and back edges are t slot

The top has two t slot channels as well, with 2 standoffs (threaded posts) in the front and rear. If you zoom in this pic they are slid far left

Sooo 4 built in t slot channels. Front and rear edges. And front / rear on top surface.
F6B85468-2B4E-4052-949F-1908EEE3F243.jpeg
That look like it would be very easy to fit to my existing mount system. The light in your tank also looks really good and you say you like them... I have a birthday in a few months, hmmmmm
 

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