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00W's AIO Smorgasbord

Aquarium Profile and Equipment

What type of saltwater aquarium is this?
Mixed Reef
Total Water Volume
115
When did you start this tank?
Jun 16, 2015
What is your aquarium made of?
Glass
Aquarium Length (inches)
48
Aquarium Width (inches)
18
Aquarium Height (inches)
24
Aquarium Overflow/Drain
Drain Style (durso, herbie, etc)
Aquarium Sump
YES
Sump Water Volume
20
Aquarium Stand
Wood
Aquarium Controller
NO
Protein Skimmer
NO
Protein Skimmer Make and Model
Lifereef vs3-24
Aquarium Reactors
  1. None
Return Pump
Eheim compaction 3000
What types of equipment are you using for water flow and circulation?
  1. Powerhead
  2. Wavemaker
Water Flow and Circulation Equipment List
Jebao OW 20 x2, OW10, Jebao 1300, 2 sicce small WaveMaker.
Aquarium Lighting
  1. T5 Fluorescent
  2. Natural Sunlight
Lighting Equipment List
Odyssea T5 HO fixture
Lighting PAR and Goals
Low
Dosing Equipment Detail
None
Auto Top Off or ATO
NO
Aquarium Heating and Cooling
  1. I am using a heater or heaters
Water Temperature
77
Heating and Cooling Equipment Detail
Eheim 300w with ink bird controller

Aquarium Water Chemistry and Parameters

pH Level
8.3
Specific Gravity
1.027
Nitrate or NO3
19
Phosphate or PO4
1.12
Calcium
440
Alkalinity
7
Magnesium
1300
Salt Brand
Red sea blue bucket
Trace Element Dosing
Kent essential elements

Aquarium Natural and Mechanical Filtration

Substrate
Bare Bottom (BB)
Substrate Level
No Substrate
Live Rock
75
Live Rock Type
Unknown
Nutrient Export
  1. Protein Skimmer
  2. Filter Sock
Water Changes
YES
Water Change Details
10% every Monday

Aquarium Tank Inhabitants (fish, coral, invert etc.)

Fish List
  1. Angelfish
  2. Clownfish
  3. Surgeonfish Tang
  4. Other Predatory
Total Fish
4
Coral List
  1. Zoanthids
  2. Soft Coral
  3. Mushroom Coral
  4. Other
Total Corals
6
Invert List
  1. Anemone
  2. Snails
  3. None
Total Inverts
0
Livestock Detail
Have a trigger which is not listed.
Livestock Quarantine
  1. No Quarantine

Aquarium Nutrition (fish, coral, invert etc. feeding)

Fish Feeding Frequency
Multiple Daily Feedings
Coral Feeding Frequency
Do Not Feed Coral Directly
Fish and Coral Feeding
  1. Flake
  2. Pellet
  3. Frozen
  4. Algae Strips
  5. Other
Auto Feeder
NO

Additional Aquarium Information

What do you think are the keys to your success in reefing?
Patience

Rocks reef

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Not technically. The Inkbird should only work in the case of a heater malfunction. The heater should control itself so that the Inkbird isn't turning on and off.
Morning Tim <tips hat>.
I've been kind of out of the loop the past couple days. You mentioned something about an appointment being moved up. Is this for your back?
 

Calmwaters

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@tbrown Its my understanding that you are supposed to set your heater higher than you actually want your tank, then set the inkbird at the temp you want the tank to be which would then make the inkbird turns the heater off and on as needed. Is that not right? That's how I have set up all the inkbirds on all my freshwater tanks over the years.
 

Rocks reef

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@tbrown Its my understanding that you are supposed to set your heater higher than you actually want your tank, then set the inkbird at the temp you want the tank to be which would then make the inkbird turns the heater off and on as needed. Is that not right? That's how I have set up all the inkbirds on all my freshwater tanks over the years.
Yes, that is how you set it up.
I do, and have done, the same. I set the heater a little higher than my parameters I enter into the Ranco controller.
 

tharbin

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Not technically. The Inkbird should only work in the case of a heater malfunction. The heater should control itself so that the Inkbird isn't turning on and off.
If your heater has a built in thermostat, then you usually set it to your desired tank temp (I run mine at 78 degrees) and then plug the heater into the Inkbird and set its low two degrees below your heater setting and the high two degrees above you heater setting. That way the Inkbird is working as a safety backup for a failed heater.

I just have a titanium element in my tank run by an Inkbird so I have no safety but my heater rarely turns on as 78 degrees just happens to be right around the difference between our room temp and the induced heat in the tank from all the equipment.
 
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Nor'easter Reefer

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I think some people use the ink bird at a little higher, so the the ink bird is always calling for heat, the heater switches itself, but if the heater sticks on the ink bites can shut it off
 

tharbin

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@tbrown Its my understanding that you are supposed to set your heater higher than you actually want your tank, then set the inkbird at the temp you want the tank to be which would then make the inkbird turns the heater off and on as needed. Is that not right? That's how I have set up all the inkbirds on all my freshwater tanks over the years.
That is the other way of doing it.

If you have a quality heater like an Eheim or Finnex, I would have the heater first and the Inkbird as backup. If your heater is off-brand, I'd do it with the Inkbird controlling the tank and the heater as the failover.
Yes, that is how you set it up.
I do, and have done, the same. I set the heater a little higher than my parameters I enter into the Ranco controller.
It really comes down to which relays you trust more. Eheims, etc. rarely fail, they just wear out but many others stick, and that can be catastrophic to your tank.

With a Ranco, I would absolutely rely on the Ranco first and always. The Inkbirds are better than most heaters but they aren't a Ranco. They fail from time to time also so make the more reliable one the main controller.
 
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tharbin

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I always thought that the inkbird was the fail safe and not to control the heaters functions . But I guess you can’t use it either way .
I'd say that is the most common way to use it.

They fail often enough that it really comes down to which device is perceived to be more reliable, the heater or the controller. The idea is to have the more reliable as the 'temperature controller' and the other as the 'fail-safe'.
 

Calmwaters

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That is the other way of doing it.

If you have a quality heater like an Eheim or Finnex, I would have the heater first and the Inkbird as backup. If your heater is off-brand, I'd do it with the Inkbird controlling the tank and the heater as the failover.

It really comes down to which relays you trust more. Eheims, etc. rarely fail, they just wear out but many others stick, and that can be catastrophic to your tank.

With a Ranco, I would absolutely rely on the Ranco first and always. The Inkbirds are better than most heaters but they aren't a Ranco. They fail from time to time also so make the more reliable one the main controller.
I don't know what brand of heater mine is it came with the tank when I got it. Its orange and black and doesn't look like any of my freshwater tank heaters...
 

CoralB

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I'd say that is the most common way to use it.

They fail often enough that it really comes down to which device is perceived to be more reliable, the heater or the controller. The idea is to have the more reliable as the 'temperature controller' and the other as the 'fail-safe'.
Tom ! , for my info which is the better unit for thermometer and fail safe unit . I personally have a inkbird and a finnex heater .
 

That Crusso Kid

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