72 hours of disaster

[vetteguy53081]

Yes I added 3 emerald crabs and a Sea Hare about 2 weeks ago.

Inverts doing well removes water as suspect leaving disease and can be flukes. Any rapid breathing, loss of appetite, lethargic behavior or hiding>

 

[Fish Fan]

Yes I added 3 emerald crabs and a Sea Hare about 2 weeks ago.

Hmmmmm....

@vetteguy53081 could this be a disease issue after adding the inverts recently?

EDIT: Sorry, my reply was late here, I should have refreshed the page lol!

 

[js-3Design]

The salt water meter is calibrated and I had it tested recently both gave 1.025. I'm not sure how to test my osmose water, what should I test for?

You test for tds (total dissolved solids)
Osmose filters degrade over time. So you test how clean and pure the water is.

Basically it runs a current thru the water, 100% pure h2o doesn't conduct electricity .. the more stuff there is in the water the beter it conducts electricity.

You can find cheap tds meters that can give you indication.

This is to make sure no heavy metals chlorine or other chemicals get into the aquarium..

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

That coral on the left for example is a green star polyps, not too green...

Green star polyp is closed up, that's a sign that it isn't happy. Both clowns died, but is the blue damsel still alive with no symptoms and still with good bright coloration? If so, that's really confusing! Generally, fish dying but the corals fine points to a fish disease. Both corals and fish doing poorly points to water quality. However, some fish dying and only some corals doing poorly doesn't really line up with anything.....

 

[MnFish1]

I wonder if this is toxin from the sea hare - which is usually not recommended to keep. Either way - it's kind of confusing. My understanding is that fish and corals are not doing well - as compared to other inverts doing fine. Can you clarify?

 

[Aquadude1]

It also reminds me of the toxin of some dinos that also can reduce oxygen but i see no evidence of dinos

 

[MnFish1]

Just re-read the entire thread (because I made a typo) - corals are not doing 'ok' - I think this is a toxic issue - and could be the sea hare.

 

[its just laurie]

Hi there. 1 year old tank, not a single of my 8 fished ever died, all OG.

In the last 72 hours, corals stopped opening, and in the last 12, both my clown fish died. Basic tests (Salinity, Nitrates, phosphates) all at their normal figures they have been at for months. What can cause such a sudden issue? I took a few pictures, can provide more data, this is my first tank so relatively noob. TYIA

Daily isn’t always necessary and can sometimes lead to over saturation. And throw off the equilibrium. Did you check your element levels? Agree that the clown def brought some badness to the party by the look of him. Should be a bump in ammonia /ni bc of the degradation and fouling. Idk if you have this option but I keep both a color spectrometry check kit for salt master and elements and also the Hanna master computer and when I get something I can’t make sense I go back to my water and run the two together to make sure the readings are accurate

 

[TankYouVeryMuch]

What carbon are you using?

A Poly-filter pad.

Any coloration to it? Poly-filter pads are helpful because they can change color depending on what they’re exposed to.

 

[MnFish1]

Daily isn’t always necessary and can sometimes lead to over saturation. And throw off the equilibrium. Did you check your element levels? Agree that the clown def brought some badness to the party by the look of him. Should be a bump in ammonia /ni bc of the degradation and fouling. Idk if you have this option but I keep both a color spectrometry check kit for salt master and elements and also the Hanna master computer and when I get something I can’t make sense I go back to my water and run the two together to make sure the readings are accurate

I am going to politely disagree - daily testing is important - assuming one is following the copper protocol. But you are dead on - double testing with different methods can be invaluable. Polyfilters are great - but not carbon - and will not likely remove as much as a good activated carbon

EDIT - I mean daily testing in the setting of this issue - not daily testing in general.

 

[Fishy888]

The salt water meter is calibrated and I had it tested recently both gave 1.025. I'm not sure how to test my osmose water, what should I test for?

Do you have a TDS meter? That's how you'd test your water. By Osmose I assume it's a RODI unit. If not, you'll want to get a reverse osmosis deionization (RODI) unit.

I wonder if something is leeching copper or some other heavy metal. Like @js-3Design said, you'll want to get an ICP test.

 

[MnFish1]

Do you have a TDS meter? That's how you'd test your water. By Osmose I assume it's a RODI unit. If not, you'll want to get a reverse osmosis deionization (RODI) unit.

I wonder if something is leeching copper or some other heavy metal. Like @js-3Design said, you'll want to get an ICP test.

I think the TDS meter may show something - but it doesn't give any answer as to what'. Before a TDS meter - I would send and ICP monitor. Many people use tap water (dechlorinated) for mixing saltwater and even replacement depending on the area

 

[Fishy888]

I think the TDS meter may show something - but it doesn't give any answer as to what'. Before a TDS meter - I would send and ICP monitor. Many people use tap water (dechlorinated) for mixing saltwater and even replacement depending on the area

Totally agree. I don't remember what the turnaround time is on ICP testing these days but definitely go that route as soon as you can. While waiting on the results see if a friend might have a TDS meter. You can also get them cheaply online.

The ICP test is the priority right now. Definitely worry about that first!