75 gallon stand build

[shovelrider]

I decided to build the stand for my newly acquired 75g tank. I didn't like how low all the store bought stands sit and how overpriced they are for the quality. I consider myself pretty handy but have never really built anything with wood, so my tools and knowledge are limited. After looking over many DIY stands I decided to go with the 2x4 frame. This appears to be the easiest build for beginners with limited tools and allows for no center support on a 4ft span.

Material list:
Top Select 2x4x96 kiln dried white wood(pine) --- hand picked for straightness and least amount of knots. Also tried to pick the best cuts to avoid bowing. Looking at the ends, the grain the grain should be straight as possible.
2.5'' polymer coated wood screws.
100 grit sand paper --- for sanding off splinters

Tools used:
12'' combo square --- for drawing straight lines and squaring the wood when screwing together.
18v cordless drill
12'' compound miter saw --- Borrowed from friend. Squared-up blade angles before cutting wood for stand(used combo square for this).

First thing I did was write out on paper how many cuts and of what size I needed to make a 35'' tall stand with all 2x4's. I used RocketEngineer's (on RC) stand calculator for this.
I wanted the stand dimensions to be 49x19x35

upper rails = 49'' x2
upper ends = 16'' x2
upper middle = 16'' x1
screw strips = 33'' x4
uprights = 28'' x8
bottom rails = 49'' x2
bottom ends = 16'' x2
bottom middle = 16'' x1

Total cut list:
49'' x4
16'' x6
33'' x4
28'' x8


Then I decided the layout of the cuts per 2x4 to have the least amount of waste. I first cut both ends of the 2x4's to make sure the ends where square
board 1. 49 -28 -16 ~5'' waste
board 2. 49 -28 -16 ~5'' waste
board 3. 49 -28 -16 ~5'' waste
board 4. 49 -28 -16 ~5'' waste
board 5. 33 -33 -28 ~2'' waste
board 6. 33 -33 -28 ~2'' waste
board 7. 28 - 28 -16 - 16 ~8'' waste

I then cut all my boards, taking my time to make sure my measurements were right and my cuts where straight.

View of cuts...

Top frame laid out...

I built the top and bottom frames first. Making sure the boards on one side are completely flush, using the square to do so.

Frames stacked...

I then attached 4 uprights to the screw strips with 2 screws each. Then attached the screw strips to the bottom frame.

 

[shovelrider]

Then I placed the top frame on and checked for level. Make sure bottom frame is level(shim if needed) then check top frame. Once level is achieved screw into place.

Middle brace attached as well.

Size reference with tank. Top of tank is at my armpit...

I then checked for gaps between the bottom tank rim and stand using a feeler gauge. There will be some variation here as 2x4's are not exactly straight. It is important to get this as even as possible and shim if needed. You could also add plywood on top if the gaps are real bad. Shim between the 2x4 and plywood to get a level surface. I was lucky, I had a few gaps and flipped my stand over and put the tank back on, half filled with water and there is only one small gap on one side.

water leak/ rim gap test...

After this I finished adding the side uprights. (You can see in the pic, 2 are missing on the right side)

I plan on adding plywood skin, doors and paint as soon as I get some more time.

To be continued...

 

[Reefing Madness]

 

[shovelrider]

Some pics of the leveling process...

Score both sides of the shim and just snap off...

I also filled the other gaps with shims after I took this picture.

Frame finished and leveled out...

Skin to come next...

 

[Reefing Madness]

Very nice so far.

 

[expressre]

looks great!

 

[shovelrider]

Thanks, this is my first furniture/stand build. I am going to take it slow and try to make this thing look professional(to the best of my abilities). My wife loves the 45g stand/canopy combo we have that was store bought, so this one has to look as good if not better so the 75g can take the place of the 45g as focal point in our living room. She was reluctant to replace the 45g because she thinks it looks so good, but the 75g is the perfect size for the wall that the tank will back up to.

This is not the wall it will be on. I just wanted to see how level the stand/tank was in a known level area of the house. The wall it will back up to is behind the chair that is just barely in the pic.

I am loving the height of the tank and stand. I don't know why manufacturers make stands so low. I am really glad I didn't settle with a 28'' high stand.

 

[Mike J.]

I make cabinets, and, looks like you've done a great job.

 

[shovelrider]

Thank you!

 

[tidus10]

awesome! good job! the hardest part for me is making the skin
Althought when I was researching this tank design, i did notice that people were recommending that for a 4' span and a bigger tank like this to use a 2x6 for the top and bottom instead of 2x4s because of the span and weight.

 

[shovelrider]

Thanks for the compliment. I was following RocketEngineer's design on RC . He did the calculations for deflection on 2x4s. According to those, 2x4s are fine without support up to 90g. Once skin is applied the deflection is even less. I will post if the stand fails, but I am confident in the design. I'm not trying to be ignorant/ arrogant but the stand seems solid with no measurable bow while full of water.

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[amppdx]

Very impressive amount of detail and organization on this thread. Thanks for your sharing your time and experience. I'm inching closer to a 90g build (same dimensions you have here just a bit taller tank and I definetly picked up a few tricks from your thread. Skinning is my biggest concern too so interested to see what you come up with. As a preview though....are you planning on going painted or stained?

 

[shovelrider]

Thanks, I try and put together build threads to help out the next reefer with a little more info all in one place. I think detail helps others pull the trigger a little easier.

I haven't decided yet. I want it black for sure, but haven't made up my mind on black stain or just black paint.

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[tidus10]

use Krylon: Products: Indoor/Outdoor Stain Blocking Primer/Sealer for the inside as a sealer/primer, it hides a lot of salt creep and will prevent the wood from rotting ^__^ thats what i used and i loved it. then do the outside whatever you like, after going the stainer route i decided to make the second stand i made flat black after using Carpenter's Interior/Exterior Wood Repair Filler 1 pint from Elmer's and made it all flat and painted it all flat black and it hides everything thats not perfect

 

[shovelrider]

Any pics of the flat black? That's what I was thinking about because I just painted my TV console flat black.

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[tidus10]

Krylon on the outside, flat black on the outside.


~Tidus

 

[tidus10]

Check out my thread for more photos


~Tidus

 

[amppdx]

The rule of thumb I have always heard on stain vs paint is if the wood is high quality stain it, if low quality then paint. But with black I dont see the point in staining, you really arent going to pick up much grain so you might as well paint it and get a nice smooth finish. Are you skinning with 1/4" plywood?

 

[shovelrider]

tidus, I see your running the SCA-302. How are you liking it so far?

This is mine...

I bought it with the 75g upgrade in mind. I currently have it on my 45g and it is kicking butt.

amppdx, I will be using a combination of woods. Plywood with hardwood trim and possibly hardwood frame on each side... I'm still trying to make up my mind.
I would use black stain, not to show the grain so much, but to get a black color and seal the wood. Some goes for the black paint, which I am leaning more towards this option.

 

[Zero Nitrates]

Great work! The stand looks good.