ictoae

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Not sure how tolerable this community is to freshwater, but I am gonna post anyway and find out :). I've lurked for a while now and I do appreciate the expertise here on R2R.

After much planning and selling my pool table, I picked up a used 750 gallon (10' x 4' x 2.5') earlier this week.
20230927_220013.jpg

20230927_220023.jpg

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The obligatory before pic:
IMG-20230928-WA0004.jpg


It has two center overflows (approximately 2' x 1' each) with 3 drains and two returns in each so I am likely running a dual-bean setup. Would love any lessons-learned from someone who has done similar; in particular I am currently planning to tie the non-siphon drains together and the emergency drains together prior to the sump.

Sump measurements updated 9/29.
Speaking of sumps, it came with an amazing 100" x 27" x 23" acrylic sump (little bit dirty, but I have it about 1/4 cleaned up after last night). Planning 3 x 7" filter socks in the first chamber on the two siphons and the combined non-siphon. First chamber is 17" long and 20.5 tall so I'll stack a bunch of static media in it as well. After that are two narrow baffles taking up 6.25". Next chamber is the big one (33.5" x 16" tall) where I plan to run a fluidized K1 bed as my primary tank bio filtration. 200 liters of K1 should support a pretty heavy fish load. After that is a narrow 12" chamber (water flows in and out at the surface so hopefully the lower section is less turbulent) that I am eyeballing for a small refugium with plants & shrimp. Following that is a 17" excessive section of baffles, then the 13.75" x 10" tall return chamber for two return pumps (maybe four since the tank is already drilled for the returns; any single pump going down would only lose 25% of flow which is nice redundancy).
IMG_20230929_074736.jpg

For lighting I plan to suspend an 8' x 3' extruded aluminum rectangle from the ceiling and mounting 24"/36" led lights to it. Have not decided on which lights yet, but I am looking for something programmable with a cell phone app. Tank will not be planted and is freshwater so I just need to be able to see the fish best and don't need high powered coral lights. I may add a couple small spotlight type fixtures as well to highlight specific spots in tank.

As far as livestock goes, the tank will be African cichlids.
- A colony of F1 Moba Gibberosa/Frontosa as the primary species (starting with 30, hoping for a final colony of 20).
- A group of lelupi for color contrast.
- Some dolphins (cyrtocara moori) (8) and Acei (12) to swim around.
- 8-10 synodontis multipunctatus to control fry/breeding.
- 8-10 inkfin calvus
- Neolamprologus Brichardi because they make me smile.
- a group of julidochromis marlieri (thanks @FishSkedee)
- Will probably add a fancyish pleco or two (blue phantom and/or something interesting).

Catfish approved?
20230929_062820.jpg


If the Mobas eventually start eating the lelupi and brichardi, I reckon will let them and then add some larger predatory Haps since the tank has already proven inhospitable. I really like the Malawi trout, but he is a definite no with smaller fish.

If this is bad content for R2R, let me know. Otherwise, I will continue updating and asking for help as I go. I in no way think that I am an expert, so I welcome advice and suggestions.
 
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CasperOe

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Uh! That's gonna be a cool build!! :star-struck:
 

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I’m more of a CA/SA cichlid fan…but wow that’s gonna be a cool tank!
If I was going to put a pleco with Africans, I’d probably stick with a bristlenose. They are just the toughest and can handle the aggression the best while not getting unnecessarily large.
 
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ictoae

ictoae

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I’m more of a CA/SA cichlid fan…but wow that’s gonna be a cool tank!
If I was going to put a pleco with Africans, I’d probably stick with a bristlenose. They are just the toughest and can handle the aggression the best while not getting unnecessarily large.
A dozen bristlenose would be adorable. I am a little scared that they would be bite sized.
 

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A dozen bristlenose would be adorable. I am a little scared that they would be bite sized.
Depends— if you can find a vendor that sells larger ones, it’d definitely be worth the extra cost (though BN plecos are relatively inexpensive as is). Otherwise, you could buy them small and grow them out elsewhere, and eventually they may be big enough to tolerate cichlid aggression.
If well fed they do grow pretty fast, and would probably grow alongside the cichlids.
 

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I have been keeping africans for fifty years, Malawi, Tanganyika and Victorian. You should not mix the different lake fish. Personalities and hardiness do not mesh. As for the bristlenose, keep them only with nonpredatory fish like Lethrinops. I had large angels eat a batch of 1.5 inch plecos. If you like large fish, go with the large Malawi haps, Fossochromis, Malawi hawk and Malawi trout. They would be impressive in that tank. Go to the site Cichlid Forum for more info.
 

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I'm going to give it 1 point because it's fresh water and 10 points because it's going to be an awesome Cichlid build. Can't wait to see fish in it!
 
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I'm going to give it 1 point because it's fresh water and 10 points because it's going to be an awesome Cichlid build. Can't wait to see fish in it!
Thank you! I am super excited to see it come together. I spent a couple hours scrubbing the sump last night. Hoping to have it looking clear again by the end of the weekend.
 
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Depends— if you can find a vendor that sells larger ones, it’d definitely be worth the extra cost (though BN plecos are relatively inexpensive as is). Otherwise, you could buy them small and grow them out elsewhere, and eventually they may be big enough to tolerate cichlid aggression.
If well fed they do grow pretty fast, and would probably grow alongside the cichlids.
Planning on squeezing a rack of 4x 40 breeders into the corner by the windows so that I have quarantine/hospital/growout space. I may just stick with bristlenose
 
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I'm going to give it 1 point because it's fresh water and 10 points because it's going to be an awesome Cichlid build. Can't wait to see fish in it!
I don't know where I spend 11 points, but I'll keep them until I find someone to pass them along to. ;)
 
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I have been keeping africans for fifty years, Malawi, Tanganyika and Victorian. You should not mix the different lake fish. Personalities and hardiness do not mesh. As for the bristlenose, keep them only with nonpredatory fish like Lethrinops. I had large angels eat a batch of 1.5 inch plecos. If you like large fish, go with the large Malawi haps, Fossochromis, Malawi hawk and Malawi trout. They would be impressive in that tank. Go to the site Cichlid Forum for more info.
Thank you for the advice. My Malawi species (moori and acei) were selected for their compatibility, both diet and temperament, with the frontosa. Real talk, I am hoping to bend some of the standard rules due to the size of the tank and the the two overflows that provide additional line of sight breaks.

I do still worry that bristlenose may be too small and slow once the fronts mature.

I have been a member of cichlid-forum since 2008 (though I can't seem to recall my account password).
 

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Sounds like a fun tank. What type of rock are you thinking?> I bet if you started with a few larger leleupi, brichardi, and maybe some marlieri you could get them to start colonizing before the fronts grew too big, I always really enjoyed my neo compressiceps too, are they on the list??
 
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Sounds like a fun tank. What type of rock are you thinking?> I bet if you started with a few larger leleupi, brichardi, and maybe some marlieri you could get them to start colonizing before the fronts grew too big, I always really enjoyed my neo compressiceps too, are they on the list??
Excellent suggestion on the marlieri they are now added to my spreadsheet! I failed to list them earlier, but I am planning on dropping 8-10 inkfin calvus in so no compressiceps, but close.
 

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Excellent suggestion on the marlieri they are now added to my spreadsheet! I failed to list them earlier, but I am planning on dropping 8-10 inkfin calvus in so no compressiceps, but close.
Nice, ya they should breed good, I bet the calvus colors with the fronts will be pretty sharp. I kept a lot of tangs and I think my all-time favorite was the eretmodus cyanostictus (goby) he became my little buddy.. Maybe I just enjoy fish without swim bladders lol

 
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Nice, ya they should breed good, I bet the calvus colors with the fronts will be pretty sharp. I kept a lot of tangs and I think my all-time favorite was the eretmodus cyanostictus (goby) he became my little buddy.. Maybe I just enjoy fish without swim bladders lol

Too much breeding is one of my fears. I have hope that the fronts and the synodontis can keep it under control. I may have to learn some new fish corralling and catching tricks.
 

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Thank you for the advice. My Malawi species (moori and acei) were selected for their compatibility, both diet and temperament, with the frontosa. Real talk, I am hoping to bend some of the standard rules due to the size of the tank and the the two overflows that provide additional line of sight breaks.

I do still worry that bristlenose may be too small and slow once the fronts mature.

I have been a member of cichlid-forum since 2008 (though I can't seem to recall my account password).
One of the main differences between Malawi and Tanganyika fish is their hardiness. Malawis are as hardy as rocks when it comes to water changes for example. Tanganyikas do not handle water changes at all. Twice over the years, I lost a tank of them to a too big water change. That is why I gave up mine a few years ago. In fact, the LFS in town lost all of their Frontosa breeders when a part timer did a 25% water change. I did a 50 % on my mbuna refilling the tank by running the garden hose through a basement window. No problems.
 
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One of the main differences between Malawi and Tanganyika fish is their hardiness. Malawis are as hardy as rocks when it comes to water changes for example. Tanganyikas do not handle water changes at all. Twice over the years, I lost a tank of them to a too big water change. That is why I gave up mine a few years ago. In fact, the LFS in town lost all of their Frontosa breeders when a part timer did a 25% water change. I did a 50 % on my mbuna refilling the tank by running the garden hose through a basement window. No problems.
Gotcha!

I'm actually planning on not doing water changes. ;) If you notice the lack of crown molding in my pics, I'll be running PEX from my garage (pre softener), behind some raceway crown molding, to the tank. After a charcoal filter, I will be dripping ~2 gallons per hour (subject to change depending on tested nitrate levels). Sump will have an overflow plumbed to the backyard to dispose of the extra water. Constant water change to keep parameters steady and consistent. San Antonio water happens to be well suited to African cichlids since the aquifer that feeds it is limestone so water doesn't need a lot of treatment and adjusting.
 
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First round of sump cleaning has been completed! Emptied trash and 2" of sand and coral chunks and other crap from everywhere. Enough crap that I had to empty my shop vac twice. Removed all old plumbing and bulkheads and gave the entire sump an initial cleaning. It's starting to look decent!

What's the best way to plug the holes that will not be used? Do they make a closed bulkhead or do I need to close one with a short section of PVC and a cap?

20230929_211520.jpg


Also updated sump measurements in the original post.
 

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