I agree, tank is still a bit to young for sps. Its common to wait upwards of a year before adding sps to a tank even for veteran reefers. I would slow down a little, as stated before and enjoy the tank. Your tank will be ready in no time.
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When you say check magnets what do you mean? Do you mean the motors are putting a charge in the water?Have you sent in an ICP test? Checked all of your magnets? Checked for chloramines in water?
Have you checked with Patrick at Ocean's Floor in Greenville, he would be able to help you out.I have a Waterbox 60.2 which is basically a 2ft tank with a sump. I started the tank Aug 2 2020. I have rock, sand, skimmer, algae scrubber, two AI Prime 16HD lights above tank. I use Kalkwasser with my ATO. I keep ALK steady between 8.5 and 8.8. My nutrients stay very low. Nitrate 5-10. Phos .07ish. I put Acros in and they turn brown then a lot of them has RTNed and died. I ordered a custom lid for the tank but the company that builds them cannot get plexiglass glass because of this virus panic. So I have a piece of plexiglass that I just put on top. I forgot one day to put it on and went to take a shower. My blue spotted jawfish jumped, my Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse jumped. I have lost a pirymid butterfly, and a powder blue tang. Hundreds of dollars of fish and corals. So now I am not purchasing any livestock. I am just holding water parameters stable. I have some monti still alive, I have a chalice, some cyphastrea, a ORA frogskin, some setosa, some anacropora all of which do not look good, polyps not out some are brown. Is there anyone in the Greenville, South Carolina area that would be willing to help me before I just sell everything. This seems to be very difficult.
3.) Why not try a mesh top? An acrylic top to your tank might get dirty, shade your lights, and I'd worry about it getting too hot. BRS has a kit to make one easy.
Your tank is two months old???!!!!????I have a Waterbox 60.2 which is basically a 2ft tank with a sump. I started the tank Aug 2 2020. I have rock, sand, skimmer, algae scrubber, two AI Prime 16HD lights above tank. I use Kalkwasser with my ATO. I keep ALK steady between 8.5 and 8.8. My nutrients stay very low. Nitrate 5-10. Phos .07ish. I put Acros in and they turn brown then a lot of them has RTNed and died. I ordered a custom lid for the tank but the company that builds them cannot get plexiglass glass because of this virus panic. So I have a piece of plexiglass that I just put on top. I forgot one day to put it on and went to take a shower. My blue spotted jawfish jumped, my Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse jumped. I have lost a pirymid butterfly, and a powder blue tang. Hundreds of dollars of fish and corals. So now I am not purchasing any livestock. I am just holding water parameters stable. I have some monti still alive, I have a chalice, some cyphastrea, a ORA frogskin, some setosa, some anacropora all of which do not look good, polyps not out some are brown. Is there anyone in the Greenville, South Carolina area that would be willing to help me before I just sell everything. This seems to be very difficult.
This.... ICP test would be a great place to start. Also maturity of your tank has a lot to do with it. One thing i did with mine is while i was waiting for the tank to mature i added tons of biodiversity (Pods and pods and more pods...i also kept them fed with phyto).Bit of critical thinking and root cause analysis thoughts coming. We know stable parameters, lighting and proper flow can drastically impact coral growth. If you can rule those out through testing we can move on to other causes.
Here is a list of things to check before throwing in the towel
- ICP (as stated above can identify toxins)
- Check for voltage in the tank with multimeters and use grounding plugs
- Test RODI
- Strict no hands policy
- Check pumps for damage
I have a Waterbox 60.2 which is basically a 2ft tank with a sump. I started the tank Aug 2 2020. I have rock, sand, skimmer, algae scrubber, two AI Prime 16HD lights above tank. I use Kalkwasser with my ATO. I keep ALK steady between 8.5 and 8.8. My nutrients stay very low. Nitrate 5-10. Phos .07ish. I put Acros in and they turn brown then a lot of them has RTNed and died. I ordered a custom lid for the tank but the company that builds them cannot get plexiglass glass because of this virus panic. So I have a piece of plexiglass that I just put on top. I forgot one day to put it on and went to take a shower. My blue spotted jawfish jumped, my Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse jumped. I have lost a pirymid butterfly, and a powder blue tang. Hundreds of dollars of fish and corals. So now I am not purchasing any livestock. I am just holding water parameters stable. I have some monti still alive, I have a chalice, some cyphastrea, a ORA frogskin, some setosa, some anacropora all of which do not look good, polyps not out some are brown. Is there anyone in the Greenville, South Carolina area that would be willing to help me before I just sell everything. This seems to be very difficult.
haha I meant new tanks with lights would get all sorts of nuisance algae... and it would be easier to deal with them if u didn’t have ur tank filled with expensive coralsit would be easier (and much cheaper) to deal with nuisance algae that’s sure to show up in new tanks with lights.
Thank you for advice. I test ALK with a HANNA checker once a day. The lid I ordered is a mesh lid but it has a plexiglass glass frame and the company says plexiglass is not plentiful because of the chinese virus. My PH is 8.0 to 8.1, I check it daily with HANNA digital checker. I have a few LPS in tank so they are probably used some Calcium and ALK. When I mix the Kalkwasser into the top off water I am mixing less than half a teaspoon per gallon. I already have spots of coraline algae popping up on rock and little barnacle like growth on back of tank. Hey I thought the same as you, after fish jumped I bought 3 springier damsels and put in there and an indigo hamlet, very hardy fish. I guess I will just sit still and manage the water for a few months.1.) +1 on going too fast. You need to see good coralline growth before investing in acros, give the microfauna time to develop, and just generally let thing stabilize.
2.) I'm wondering about alk...How do you know your alk is stable between 8.5-8.8? How often do you test? With a tank that new, I wonder how much Alk you need beyond regular water changes, and what its doing to your pH.
3.) Why not try a mesh top? An acrylic top to your tank might get dirty, shade your lights, and I'd worry about it getting too hot. BRS has a kit to make one easy.
4.) Fish issues: Wrasses jump, there's nothing to do about it but get a top. A waterbox 60.2 is WAY too small for a powder blue. Also, adding that many fish in 2 months can cause all sorts of problems. If that Jawfish didn't jump, you might have lost him anyway due to poor nutrition with the sand bed not being mature enough. Butterflies are hard to keep.
Start with some easier fish, I love my clowns. Also my springer damsels are wonderful additions. Non aggressive, eat pests, and a really cool flash of blue.
I've been in the hobby for years, and my best advice is Patience and Stablility. Don't add fish too fast. Don't add corals too fast. Find a way to monitor salinity, Ph alk and Ca reliably and then don't let them swing wildly during the days/weeks. For me, my Apex has been a game changer: Auto top off kit, temp control, Trident, and trident controlled dosing with a DOS took all the guesswork, and life's distractions, out.
Don't give up... just take a breath for a month or two and let things settle in.