Acrylic 101!!!!!

Rikerbear

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Id look at the ingredients of the polish and call the MFG. Ive only removed scratches when the tank is empty using micromesh kits. First evaluate the depth of the scratch. This will determine the grit of the sand paper to start out with, you work up progressively to finer grades of sand paper eventually finishing with rubbing compound and then polish. You normally dont want to remove more material than you have too so try not to start with a grit too coarse. I normally try to start with 6-800 which takes a little longer but eventually removes the scratch leaving a series of smaller ones at the same depth as the original scratch. Use finer grades with water until you eventually get it to a blur as if someone rubbed it with steel wool. Then switch to rubbing compound and then buff out with polish. It takes some time. I prefer to do this by hand but know others who prefer to use a buffer.
Luckily the tank is empty (still working on the build). I am going out this Friday to get the Novus polish kit. I'm going to start on the outside ones to see how I do. I think I will than fill the tank up and see how bad the remaining inside scratches look. I just hate to use any products like this on the inside where residual chemicals might poison my future critters.
Thanks for the reply Phixer :smile:
 

Phixer

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Can certainly understand that. If you throughly rinse the area after use you will be fine. The residue will not impregnate the acrylic surface.
The ingredients used in polish are easily removed with a soft cloth and freshwater rinse.

If your scratches arent too bad start with least destructive method possible. Most scratches can be removed with rubbing compound and polish alone. Just make sure you stick with cotton and not polyester, nylon or any other textile that would scratch the plastic. The process is very similar to removing swirl marks in automotive paint. If you can try not to go too deep either as the concave surfaces will cause distortion. Direct sunlight will reveal any surface imperfection also.

Careful with polishing machines, in the wrong hands they can cause some serious damage. Another reason I like to do this by hand.

Post some pics of your work if you can, would be interested to see how it turns out.
 

Rikerbear

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Down with a bad cold right now....will try and post some pix soon
 

Salty Dog

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im in the mits of making a huge 48x36x24 sump for my 500g display. i have all the tools with the exception of a large table saw. I have one but mine is beat up and not accurate so I got a acrylic saw blade on my circular saw . i used straight edges for guides and left a 1/8 more to be trimmed off with my router. All pieces are cut, btw Im using 1/2" material. Now I need to prep the edges and start putting it together. Its my first time so please jump in. Whats the best way to prep the edges? Scrape, sand or router?
 

JPG@CFI

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Salty, Depends what kind of router bit you have. If you have a 2 or 3 strait flute flush cutter, mabey use that. If you have a spiral up or down flush cutter, then that is the way to go. Hard to keep panels dead square though. You need to put a strait edge on it after you make a pass, and hold it up to the light. If you see any, start over. On a tank, I keep the tolerance to the .001-.002 range. Makes glue ups a non-event. If you have a dial indicator, run a test on the run out of your router. Makes a big difference. I have several that are very true. Some are normal routers, and some are high end. My best router came from a pawn shop. My second best is a Festool. The Porter Cables are pretty good, so I have many. Try to get 1/2" shank cutters, 1/4" ones will flex badly when spun under a mild load. Best of luck, just my .02, J
 

JPG@CFI

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Salty, Part 2,

I also will chuck a new spiral flush cutter in my lathe, and put a dial indicator on it. Don't laugh, I bring anything back post haste that won't cut it. It is now comedy at the tool supply I go to. The manufactured sent me a free bit one time telling me one slipped through their QC department. Don't let anyone tell you that acrylic is just like wood. With a tank or sump, you don't just add some calk or puddy to it. Let us know how it works for you, J
 

Salty Dog

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thanks JPG, yes I started out with a double futed bit from home depot, that didn't do the job. I orderd two triple fluted spiral bits from Votex tool. I told them what i was doing and they referred me to there top of the line acrylic bits. (carbide). they also mentioned after a pass with these bits your ready to glue. I will check of course. JPG do you have any picts of your work?
 

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Never sand an edge to be bonded with solvent. This type of joint requires a perfectly smooth and true edge. Route then lightly scrape. Use a router table and with a 1/2 dia bit. Some have had sucess using the larger 1.5 diameter bits. Try to get the edge as smooth and true as possilble and be careful not to overheat the material as it will craze when the solvent is applied. If you cant get a perfect edge, I would consider using #40 or 42 instead.
 

Salty Dog

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im not having fun over here. Got all the good stuff, tools act and Im still getting a ruff edge on the acrylic after I pass it threw the router table. what the heck! I just don't get it. Please help me
 

JPG@CFI

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Bill, How much material are you trying to remove per pass? I feel the router table way of edge prep over complicates things. Too many things need to be perfect in order to be sucessful. Try to put a square base on your router. Can be made out of plywood or MDF or whatever. Make the distance from you carbide cutter to the outside edge of the rouer base a set distance, like 6" even. Then take a square piece of acrylic and mark off 6" plus 1/32nd. Clamp a strait piece of MDF, plywood or whatever and take a pass. Turn the RPM's all the way up, and let the router buzz the 1/32 off, just don't push the router. The feedback from the router will tell you how fast it wants to be fed over the material. Also look at the runout of the cutter while it is chucked up into the router. Clean all the mating surfaces before you chinch down the collar of the chuck. I have used the square base, jointer, and a whole long list of ways to get glue ready edges, and I can tell you, the square router base way will not let you down. J
 

Salty Dog

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hey JPg,

Not trying to take off much at all, just using the router to clean edge for glueing. after I pass it threw it has a few spots on the piece . Really frustrating over here. Nothing would make me more happy than to get my sump finished and I'm stalled. I will take some pictures. Im using a 1/2 and 2hp Bosch router
 
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Salty Dog

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Phixer

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Thats correct, very thin passes and high bit speed are the key. If you are still getting rough wavy edges dont use solvent to bond. Gluing up edges that are less than perfect will result in a really crappy joint. Consider using 40 or 42 if you cant get the edges smooth.
 

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I want to do it right, If I can't then I will have someone do it for me. I will try again tonight.
 

Salty Dog

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Salty Dog

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This is just going to take forever to scrap down by hand . I'm getting aggravated

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Salty Dog

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Salty Dog

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I was told it might be the fence, if there not perfect the piece will move and cause ripples
 

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