Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

[TheHarold]

Looks like the gap was not shimmed tight or the sheet was not flat prior to pinning the joint = too much gap when you pull the pins. Plus no weight on top of joint. But if it's just an inner, non-structural baffle, you can run 16/33 on each side (maybe a few times) and that will prevent water from getting through the joint.



2 things going on here that I see. Something odd was done with the euro joint to get the solvent to show in that pattern. Typically you assemble the front/back/sides and then bond on the top panel with the top panel flat, so solvent can't really "wick up" in a pattern like that. My guess is that additional solvent (maybe 16, maybe 40) was added after the fact to reinforce the joint, possibly with the assembly tilted on the corner. Shouldn't be a problem if the joint is strong afterwards, just doesn't look pretty. Could also be bonded in high humidity, which turns the area of the bond (solvent/melted acrylic) white.

The flush trim and chamfer pass look like they were ran too fast, particularly the chamfer. When you push through the router too fast, you get those little pits. FYI you can get a roundover or chamfer bit and make another slower pass and clean that up very easily, but you might leave a few scratches on the acrylic if all the dust and bits are not cleaned off. Hard to not induce scratches on black when the paper is off. You could mask off the top with wide blue tape to avoid that

Good information re the 16/33, thank you.

Yeah, I've assembled a few simple acrylic things in the past, and none had that solvent-drippage. It always wicked up into the joint. It was probably an attempt to reinforce seams. I don't think I will try to run another pass with a router; Ill just live with it. Just bummed with the sump quality- at $600 ($550 on sale) for a 48" sump, I was hoping for more; especially from a r2r vendor.

 

[Foothill Corals]

Good information re the 16/33, thank you.

Yeah, I've assembled a few simple acrylic things in the past, and none had that solvent-drippage. It always wicked up into the joint. It was probably an attempt to reinforce seams. I don't think I will try to run another pass with a router; Ill just live with it. Just bummed with the sump quality- at $600 ($550 on sale) for a 48" sump, I was hoping for more; especially from a r2r vendor.

Who made the sump?

 

[TheHarold]

Who made the sump?

Dunno if I should spread negative publicity. I was just on this thread seeking advice for fixing the issues I mentioned. They did refund me 20% of the sump cost after I expressed my concern to the owner about these issues. I’m not sure if that’s sufficient compensation, but at least they did something.

 

[Foothill Corals]

Dunno if I should spread negative publicity. I was just on this thread seeking advice for fixing the issues I mentioned.

I did a quick search and figured it out. I think you are being very kind to the vendor. My home made stuff has far better quality that that. It's pretty sad they sent that out.

On a side note, you have a nice tank!

 

[TheHarold]

I did a quick search and figured it out. I think you are being very kind to the vendor. My home made stuff has far better quality that that. It's pretty sad they sent that out.

On a side note, you have a nice tank!

Thanks re the tank compliment. Yeah, I guess pretty easy to figure out with my post history lol.

I don’t know if I should post a review. They acknowledge it’s poor quality, and at least refunded me something. So I’ll just move on.

 

[Foothill Corals]

Thanks re the tank compliment. Yeah, I guess pretty easy to figure out with my post history lol.

I don’t know if I should post a review. They acknowledge it’s poor quality, and at least refunded me something. So I’ll just move on.

Seeing that they have addressed the issue to your satisfaction I guess I personally wouldn't.

 

[Antics]

Sorry to see the quality of that sump @TheHarold. I can't believe that vendor didn't offer an exchange. Did they say you would be responsible for the shipping fees? If so I think you're doing no favors by refusing to drop their name (even if it is obvious). That quality + followup on the customer service sounds terrible. Asking someone to pay to send back their terrible craftsmanship is bogus. QA checks exist for a reason.

 

[TheHarold]

Sorry to see the quality of that sump @TheHarold. I can't believe that vendor didn't offer an exchange. Did they say you would be responsible for the shipping fees? If so I think you're doing no favors by refusing to drop their name (even if it is obvious). That quality + followup on the customer service sounds terrible. Asking someone to pay to send back their terrible craftsmanship is bogus. QA checks exist for a reason.

Yeah, shipping would be on me if I wanted a replacement. The sump was already a stretch, thats not really an option. I can make the best of this one though, with a bit of additional solvent and/or braces. I have a table saw to cut acrylic strips. Can't fix that solvent-drippage though.

 

[GAreef]

Short answer is yes, you can get away with fewer openings with those specs

Generally, for a 22" tall tank, 1/2" is the minimum material thickness. Going to 3/4" virtually eliminates bowing at that height. If you wanted to deviate from the standard formula, which is a 3" perimeter and 6" crossbrace every 24", and change that to one in the middle instead, you could do something like increasing the perimeter to 4" and the center brace to 8".

But part of me thinks that is for 1/2" euro. If you went 3/4" euro - which means that not only are the walls overbuild, the euro would be as well - you could probably stretch that a bit more. Maybe 3" perimeter 6" centerbrace, maybe you could push it further but I would want to check more before giving you advice.

I don't think you will be able to do away with the center brace completely, but I could be wrong. No matter what, you will want to specify large radius sweeps on the euro

Thanks for the help, Turbo. Do you see any problems with the above suggestions if I drop to 1/2" sides? Would be much easier mounting powerheads through 1/2 than 3/4.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

If you go down to 1/2", that does change the stress factors a bit. I would have to look into that further.

Generally though the factor you are trying to eliminate is bowing. The thinner material, the more propensity to bow which means when removing algae, it's not as flat = more passes = more chances to scratch

Changing the eurobrace by eliminating crossbraces does the same, but also fewer/larger openings also means the stress is higher at the corners of the openings. That's why you increase the width of the bracing and make the sweeps in the corners larger diameter, etc. So yes it's possible but you might end up with wider bracing if you go to 1/2"

 

[GAreef]

If you go down to 1/2", that does change the stress factors a bit. I would have to look into that further.

Generally though the factor you are trying to eliminate is bowing. The thinner material, the more propensity to bow which means when removing algae, it's not as flat = more passes = more chances to scratch

Changing the eurobrace by eliminating crossbraces does the same, but also fewer/larger openings also means the stress is higher at the corners of the openings. That's why you increase the width of the bracing and make the sweeps in the corners larger diameter, etc. So yes it's possible but you might end up with wider bracing if you go to 1/2"

I was just speaking about the 22x22" sides at 1/2". Still plan to make the 60x22" front/back panels 3/4" along with the top. I should also mention that the sides and back will be black acrylic, the tank will only be viewable from the front so I won't be scraping the 1/2" panels.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

Oh, yes, that should be OK.

 

[TherealplexiG]

@TheHarold
That isn't solvent drips but whoever built your sump isn't professional. That is excess solvent flow done at high humidity.
Also I wonder what solvent he might be using. Your sump is a bad quality, if I were you I couldn't live with it. I was smash it in the trash can. Sorry you had a bad experience. You shouldn't have agreed with the 20 percent.

 

[TherealplexiG]

I was just speaking about the 22x22" sides at 1/2". Still plan to make the 60x22" front/back panels 3/4" along with the top. I should also mention that the sides and back will be black acrylic, the tank will only be viewable from the front so I won't be scraping the 1/2" panels.

IMO you should go thicker with the sides. Not just aesthetics but also the bite it gives to front and the back.

 

[TheHarold]

@TheHarold
That isn't solvent drips but whoever built your sump isn't professional. That is excess solvent flow done at high humidity.
Also I wonder what solvent he might be using. Your sump is a bad quality, if I were you I couldn't live with it. I was smash it in the trash can. Sorry you had a bad experience. You shouldn't have agreed with the 20 percent.

I didn’t really have an option . Shipping it back and getting a replacement was not in the cards. Im very curious if this is their standard, or defective.

 

[TherealplexiG]

I didn’t really have an option . Shipping it back and getting a replacement was not in the cards. Im very curious if this is their standard, or defective.

So sad.

 

[cromag27]

Dunno if I should spread negative publicity. I was just on this thread seeking advice for fixing the issues I mentioned. They did refund me 20% of the sump cost after I expressed my concern to the owner about these issues. I’m not sure if that’s sufficient compensation, but at least they did something.

What is your favorite sump brand?

But it was so they should have made it 100% right

www.reef2reef.com

 

[cvrle1]

I am guessing this was discussed in 71 pages, but I cant find it unfortunately. After polishing acrylic tank with Novus 3, 2 and 1, would you wash it out, and if so how? Would vinegar do, bleach, something else? Should I dilute wither with water, or use as is? Thanks for the help.

 

[TherealplexiG]

I am guessing this was discussed in 71 pages, but I cant find it unfortunately. After polishing acrylic tank with Novus 3, 2 and 1, would you wash it out, and if so how? Would vinegar do, bleach, something else? Should I dilute wither with water, or use as is? Thanks for the help.

Bleach.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

Generally if you do heavy polishing with something like Meguair's, bleach.

I don't know that bleach is needed if you only use Novus 1 however.