Adding a Sump to a non drilled Tank

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Freenow54

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Hi. I am considering adding a sump on my new project Tank. It was previously a fresh water tank, and now want to add an algae scrubber, and maybe an oxydator, So to plumb the return pump has me baffled in how and to pipe a return pipe to the sump over the lip. Any ideas? Prefer an anti syphon design
 
I think the only way to safely do it without a syphon style overflow box is drill the tank. If you can you have options.
 
If you're unable to drill the tank for any reason your best bet is an overflow box from someone like Eshopps. Just match to your tank size and it will clear the plastic lip, I just don't see any other way of safely accomplishing this.
 
Agreed, just drill the tank but first make sure it isn't tempered glass. Most arn't but its best to know in advance. Eshopps make a good one. What size is the tank?
 
Eshopps works well, there are steps for safety and redundancy
 
I agree about the drilling but pretty chicken on doing it myself also substrate in and full of Water. I seem to always rethink myself. It all started wanting an Algae scrubber
 
The return pump side can be a simple up and over. The drain side is where the overflow comes in. If you drill, I strongly recommend that you use the polarized sunglasses method to determine whether or not the glass is tempered and I also strongly recommend that you do it to an empty tank. Also, don’t think of it so much as drilling, but rather extremely slowly grinding a circular hole in the tank. When you think you are going slow enough, then go a little slower.
 
I agree about the drilling but pretty chicken on doing it myself also substrate in and full of Water. I seem to always rethink myself. It all started wanting an Algae scrubber
Didnt realize that its full of water etc. To get the water over the lip of your tank needs either some kind of pump or a siphon.
 
Tools Wow GIF by VCG Construction
 
The return pump side can be a simple up and over. The drain side is where the overflow comes in. If you drill, I strongly recommend that you use the polarized sunglasses method to determine whether or not the glass is tempered and I also strongly recommend that you do it to an empty tank. Also, don’t think of it so much as drilling, but rather extremely slowly grinding a circular hole in the tank. When you think you are going slow enough, then go a little slower.
My first job outta highschool was working at a glass shop. The first things I learned was how to cut and drill plate glass. Not difficult at all if you have the correct tools, technique and lots of patience. "Grinding" the circular hole is best done horizontally on an empty tank but i'm sure it can be done on one in service. It would be a 2 person job because you need to constantly pour water on the cutter. Also, floating something in the tank to catch any debris that comes out when you break through. A shop vac would be handy as well.
 
Drilling the tank is the the most favorable solution... to someone who has drilled tanks before. I've drilled many and broken many more along the way, and I still find it to be a nerve-wracking experience! 🤣

But as has already been mentioned, an over the top overflow by Eshopps is a good alternative to drilling. I have a PF-1200 on a temporary holding tank whose display is only 40 gallons and a total of about 55 gallons with the sump. It also ran flawlessly on a 125 gallon for about 8 months.

https://www.eshopps.com/product-category/overflow-box/hang-on-back-overflow/
Dom
 
If you don't mind the clutter and have the space in your tank, you can reverse the typical consideration by putting a return pump in the display and having the "sump" overflow back in to the main display tank. Just a thought to consider...
Of course, this also means that the level of water is maintained in the "sump" tank and will vary with evaporation/etc. in the main display.
As far as preventing overflow, this would function the same as a typical setup, just with the roles reversed.
 
If you don't mind the clutter and have the space in your tank, you can reverse the typical consideration by putting a return pump in the display and having the "sump" overflow back in to the main display tank. Just a thought to consider...
Of course, this also means that the level of water is maintained in the "sump" tank and will vary with evaporation/etc. in the main display.
As far as preventing overflow, this would function the same as a typical setup, just with the roles reversed.

This is interesting. Do you have this deployed? I wouldn't mind seeing a picture.

The only thing I'm not clear on; why would you want to?
 
If you want to add some stability and nutrient export without drilling the tank and still being safe, you could try a hang on the back refugium. They are more effective than you would expect.

Hang on back overflows are risky at best.
 
Hang on back overflows are risky at best.
Not really. Dual eshopps hobs on this tank for over 6 years. Never a flood or lost syphon even with return pump off. The only way I could cause a flood was if I cranked the return up so it pumped more water than the overflows could drain.

PXL_20240222_233233684~2.jpg
 
This is interesting. Do you have this deployed? I wouldn't mind seeing a picture.

The only thing I'm not clear on; why would you want to?
I have not done it yet, but I do have plans for this on some possible builds or additions.

The reason to do it is to avoid drilling the main display tank or using an over-the-top overflow that fails if the siphon is lost. Though it still requires some kind of drilling or overflow on the "sump" tank, you can take the safer route of drilling a likely cheaper/smaller "sump" tank for the overflow rather than needing to drill the main display tank.

I do have three 10g tanks drilled for this type of purpose as small refugium/isolation tanks for possible inclusion in my main living room tank build. Each tank has three small drains drilled through the bottom of the tank with standpipes to operate as an overflow with full-siphon, trickle flow, and emergency drain. The tanks would be placed atop the main display with a manifold system to bring water to these refugiums from return of the actual sump tank under the main display. The drains would drop directly into the top of the main tank due to overlap of these tanks over the main display on the back edge. The reason for this system is a minimization of flood risk in a reliable system. Since I got the 10g tanks for $10 each on sale, the drilling risk was minimal. Of course, this method still required drilling glass.

This method may not be so useful for consideration on this original post question/issue, but it is potentially a worthwhile consideration for an option.

Upon reconsideration of this topic, essentially I am making a more complicated build to serve the same function as a hang-on-back refugium, which is probably a better solution for the question here.
 

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