AlexGs 4200 Gallon Display + 2100 gallon fish room? --- New House = New Build

[Abomb2016]

This is a diagram of my radiant heating system for the main system. If I ever add a second loop to the system for water changes I will have a PEX coil in one of my water storage tanks. This is by far the most efficient and safe way I have ever heating my aquariums. There is no concern about the heat exchanger coil not being submerged as it can't overheat. I looked at inline heaters but for the cost of a good one I can basically pay for a replacement hot water heater.

Yes this is the biggest electricity saver I ever implemented.
I have a very similar heater setup that's been running flawlessly for a couple years now. I use a coil of pex in the sump for the heat exchanger. I like SSRs (solid state relays) to do the pump switching, they basically last forever. I've just never been able to trust mechanical relays for my heater switching, they just wear out eventually. I use a PID unit to control the SSR. I've got my Apex as a backup saftey/kill switch just as you have it.

 

[Sltloser]

Great Question.

Tank Bottom - 1.5" 2x layers of 3/4" birch plywood jointed together and laminated(glued) together to make a single piece of plywood for the tank bottom. Add another 3/4" of thickness for the stand top. Overall the bottom is more or less 2.25" of plywood before waterproofing/fiberglassing starts.

That makes sense, I thought two would make the most sense. Is the double thickness of plywood mostly so that it is easier to join together or do you worry about a single sheet on top of the stand being an inadequate amount of material structurally?

Will you use a domino joiner or dowels to join them?

 

[AlexG]

Hey Alex looking great. When its complete can I bring my scuba gear up and go for a dive?

Definitely welcome to stop by but the waters might not be safe to swim in.

 

[AlexG]

Yes this is the biggest electricity saver I ever implemented.
I have a very similar heater setup that's been running flawlessly for a couple years now. I use a coil of pex in the sump for the heat exchanger. I like SSRs (solid state relays) to do the pump switching, they basically last forever. I've just never been able to trust mechanical relays for my heater switching, they just wear out eventually. I use a PID unit to control the SSR. I've got my Apex as a backup saftey/kill switch just as you have it.

I might look into changing up the controller eventually. I have a spare Renco controller on hand just in case along with an inkbird temp controller for backups. I honestly don't even want to think what it would cost for electric heating on my system.

 

[AlexG]

That makes sense, I thought two would make the most sense. Is the double thickness of plywood mostly so that it is easier to join together or do you worry about a single sheet on top of the stand being an inadequate amount of material structurally?

Will you use a domino joiner or dowels to join them?

The single sheet on top the stand is mean to lock the stand structure together. Since the top sheet on the stand has hundreds of screws in it I would not feel comfortable allowing it to be the bottom of the tank as the screw heads would be a weak spot. For the 2 bottom layers of plywood I am going to tongue and grove joint all the plywood joint seams with the router and glue them together.

 

[flagg37]

The single sheet on top the stand is mean to lock the stand structure together. Since the top sheet on the stand has hundreds of screws in it I would not feel comfortable allowing it to be the bottom of the tank as the screw heads would be a weak spot. For the 2 bottom layers of plywood I am going to tongue and grove joint all the plywood joint seams with the router and glue them together.

You can buy 3/4” CDX plywood that already has a tongue and groove. Also, not to throw you off of your plan but 1-1/8” CDX has T&G too. You mentioned birch plywood though. They make a birch plywood with higher layer counts. Typical 3/4” plywood has 5 layers whereas this stuff has like 15. The extra layers give it more strength and stability.

 

[AlexG]

You can buy 3/4” CDX plywood that already has a tongue and groove. Also, not to throw you off of your plan but 1-1/8” CDX has T&G too. You mentioned birch plywood though. They make a birch plywood with higher layer counts. Typical 3/4” plywood has 5 layers whereas this stuff has like 15. The extra layers give it more strength and stability.

With the Router the Tongue and Grove Joint will be an easy job to get done. I actually avoid the plywood with the high layer counts and stick with 5 layer plywood from Columbia Forest Products. I have seen some bad quality issues with the high ply count plywood in my area.

 

[Mjl714]

Just got through the entire thread and your builds are super fascinating. Like others have said very nice carpentry and build ideas, I’m in awe at the aquarium gallons, etc in your home. That display tank will be awesome!

Thanks for sharing all of the details and pictures.

 

[AlexG]

Just got through the entire thread and your builds are super fascinating. Like others have said very nice carpentry and build ideas, I’m in awe at the aquarium gallons, etc in your home. That display tank will be awesome!

Thanks for sharing all of the details and pictures.

Thanks. I am always happy to share.

 

[AlexG]

Update Video on the Stand top installation. There was a lot of pre-work needed to get the stand top installed which is what this video focuses on.

 

[AlexG]

Update time

Well the small pallet on the top bay in the center is my plywood. Lucky me the pallet has 20 sheets so they just loaded the pallet on the rental truck and removed two sheets which made getting it home easy. I decided to keep the plywood staged in my dining room upstairs since we never use that room anyways. Although my wife was not so thrilled with the plywood stack leaning against the dining room table. I think its a great incentive to give me more time to get the aquarium bottom installation completed. I have been taking three sheets down the stairs at a time when I am ready for them to break up the fun time carrying the plywood down the stairs by myself. The tongue and grove joints are working out well just makes a mess with the router. I set off the smoke alarm downstairs last night with the router which was not appreciated by my wife or my dogs. I have the first 4 sheets down and two more staged up to get final fitting cuts. I am hoping by the end of this weekend to have the first layer of plywood all fitted. Then I need to do a final cleaning of the stand top and plywood bottom before gluing the first layer together with the tongue and grove joints.

 

[Sgchick]

Looks like you've been busy!

 

[flagg37]

Do you use any glue between sheets? Also, what kind of fasteners do you use?

 

[AlexG]

Do you use any glue between sheets? Also, what kind of fasteners do you use?

The two plywood layers for the aquarium bottom will be glued together but not glued to the stand stop. The perimeter will be held down with fasteners through the aquarium bottom and the seal beam. I will be using deckmate coated screws for everything as they have proven themselves reliable for years. I plan on using 2.5", 3", & 4" screws depending to tie everything together.

 

[Yanos]

I still can’t find the size of this monster

 

[AlexG]

I still can’t find the size of this monster

Here is a rough overhead view of the glass dimensions. The glass will be 34" tall with ~32" of water planned.

 

[Sgchick]

Do you still have your puffers? I’ve been out of the hobby for a few years and just getting back in. I remember seeing you feed those big guys. I love the puffers. I have a small planted tank with Dwarf puffers. Someday I’ll have another tank with a big puffer in it. They have so much personality

 

[flagg37]

Here is a rough overhead view of the glass dimensions. The glass will be 34" tall with ~32" of water planned.

I’m calculating 4300 gallons. Those are exterior dimensions though.

Where do plan to put the viewing panels? On all sides?

 

[AlexG]

I’m calculating 4300 gallons. Those are exterior dimensions though.

Where do plan to put the viewing panels? On all sides?

Considering the glass thickness the inside dimensions are slightly smaller so its around 4200 gallons. All sides will be glass. While there is ~18' close to the wall its easier to just keep it as glass so the sides of the tank have a consistent construction.

 

[flagg37]

Considering the glass thickness the inside dimensions are slightly smaller so its around 4200 gallons. All sides will be glass. While there is ~18' close to the wall its easier to just keep it as glass so the sides of the tank have a consistent construction.

Looks like you took off 1-1/2” in both directions so you’ll be using 3/4” glass? Have you looked into options such as tempering or using laminated glass?