I just recently set up a sump on a tank that has been running for two years just looking to see if this is crycophites or gha, thanks! It’s also in my chaeto ball
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Looks like spongeI just recently set up a sump on a tank that has been running for two years just looking to see if this is crycophites or gha, thanks! It’s also in my chaeto ball
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. I’m seeing bubbles you may have Dino’s . Check you phosphates and nitrates make sure there not near zeroThey have always read zero nitrates .02 phosphates but I have gha pretty bad in display so I think that has always messed with my readings… I have never been able to wipe gha out I recently got a sea hare and he has been going to town for the last few weeks with little to no impact so far, very frusturating for me.Looks like spongeI just recently set up a sump on a tank that has been running for two years just looking to see if this is crycophites or gha, thanks! It’s also in my chaeto ball
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. I’m seeing bubbles you may have Dino’s . Check you phosphates and nitrates make sure there not near zero
Those aren’t from skimmer and not micro bubblesI forgot to add there are a lot of micro bubbles in that part of sump due to the skimmer… they don’t get into display like that tho
Will I still read nitrates even if I have a lot of gha, it has been at that for a long time but the gha grows like wildfire and I can’t seem to ever get rid of it… so if I dosed nitrates would I feed the gha or would it eventually “balance”? I’ve been doing this a while but still definitely new, I appreciate your helpNitrates should be between 10-20 phosphates should be between .05 - 1.0 . Should never let them go to zero .

So in your opinion as well I should probably dose some nitrates or feed more and maybe order some zebra snails as well?? I have manually removed all of it so many times but just flies right back!!Many types of algae will generate bubbles like that and it’s not necessarily dinoflagellates. Im not so sure ones nitrate and phosphate levels have any impact on GHA growth. My SPS tank has nitrate at 40 and phosphate well over 0.4 and I don’t have any nuisance algae.
With GHA, not too many creatures will eat it, some are reported to but I haven’t stumbled across any of them yet. You gotta manually pull it out and/or scrub it off, then let some big snails keep it mowed down. They’ll eat the green algae for sure but not after it’s filimentous. I’ve had good luck with zebra turbos, very specifically gotta be zebra turbos. They live a long life and get as big as tennis balls, and although they’ll stay in the same spot for several days and sleep, seemingly doing nothing, when they become active again they’ll clear out huge patches of algae. Sometimes mine discover the nori clip![]()
Okay thank you for the info I’m just at a loss and sort of confusion on what to do… I have a 73 gallon system with, 55 gallon dt with 2 zebra dartfish, 2 clowns, a prawn goby, citron goby, small to mini tang, I feel like it’s well stocked but not overcrowded maybe I’m wrong… but I haven’t been able to get any reading on nitrates since the nitrogen cycle so maybe I am bottomed out… I just always read that it is “hiding” in the algae so won’t show on a test.. very frustrating but I appreciate everyone’s input!I reread your original questions, and no, nutrients that are sequestered away in algae shouldn’t have any effect on a test reading. When you harvest the algae that is the nutrient export. If there are enough fish in the system your nutrients will rise. I used to have to add nutrients to my tank until I added some more fish and began feeding more.
And “they” say to not let your phosphate zero out or else dinos will show up. Perhaps that has some merit but I dunno I’ve not experienced that. The mechanism behind that theory is that with zero phosphate all of the Dino’s competitors will die off and allow them to flourish, but algae is pretty darned good at finding food even in a nutrient limited environment so I’m not 100% on board with that. I’m not saying it’s false but there may be more to it than that. I just don’t know.