Am I on the right track?

When did you do a WC last? Some insight. With eye issues/damage, dirty water can play a bad roll. With my flame when he went through the ordeal, I skippped out on WC because no ammonia. But just because nitrifying bacteria is taking out ammonia does not mean your water quality is good. I have had a pair of clowns evens too eating. And a week later after a water change they started eating again. I kept an eye out on poo, it did not look like parasite infection, also after they started to eat poo was the same. I was looking for parasites, and without meds and just a good ol WC the fish went back to normal.

The issue with QT tanks is this, there are not pods (most of the time), cuc that can clean up the tank so keeping water clean without a WC is not possible. Many monitor for ammonia but forget about water quality. I should don write up about this haha. I have seen it many times on FB pages, where there are no higher educated medics like here, how some just test ammonia and keep the water as is. Nutrient export is literally not possible in QT tanks with not fish and bio filters to hold bacteria.

So enough of this sorry, to shorten the story my lasted patient, the flame, after I did a good ol WC the healing ramped up way faster. It’s like farting in a room with literally no air to escape or come in to said room. Eventually you’re breathing in just farts haha.

Just an idea to think about.

FYI it’s why I did the kana route with the flame. You can do WC if need be. Not saying enthromycin does not work, but because of how’s it’s used WC are not usually part of the QT method.
Got it. That makes sense. I can keep her in there and do a round of kanaplex now. We are leaving for the 4th for a couple of days so she would have to be back in the tank by next Thursday. Do you think that's a good idea? I can do a 25% water change today. But then would prob have to add carbon to remove the erythromycin before I dose kana. I might be better off adding her back to the display and run carbon while my bipellet reactor gets here. Def struggling with nutrirnts lately.
 
your in such tough spot. As Jay said if the fish has something additional and that being the reason why it’s not eating well, it can spread to the other fish.

I would do a 50% water change and dose some Dr Tim’s or Turbo Start 900. And let the fish sit in the QT.

Do you run In the UV for QT setups?
Darn I don’t have Dr Tims on hand I have API. I do have a UV on the DT not on the QT, but I do have a HOB one I can set up. Wouldn't the UV kill the bacteria though? I will do the water change today and hope she starts eating.
 
Sure. She was swimming right before this but as soon as she saw me she hid behind the spnge in the first video and then in then darted to the PVC. She does this if she notices me, otherwise she is out of hiding. I don’t think shes thrilled with me at the moment. I had to tare apart my tank to catch her. I just spotted a little pebble looking thing in the second video, it's on her fin. I was able to make two more videos after the initial two.

The anthias looks really good except for the eye - alert, but swimming well and not breathing fast. If it were my fish, I'd try it in the DT.

p.s. - no, I don't run UV in my QT, they really don't help like the manufacturers would lead you to believe.
 
The anthias looks really good except for the eye - alert, but swimming well and not breathing fast. If it were my fish, I'd try it in the DT.

p.s. - no, I don't run UV in my QT, they really don't help like the manufacturers would lead you to believe.
Ok. I will add her back to the tank. I just replaced my GFO & added carbon to the reactor. Waiting for a bio pellet reactor, and hopefully will see the nutrients improve. Also getting water ready for a water change. I do have the UV running in my DT during the day.
 
Sure. She was swimming right before this but as soon as she saw me she hid behind the spnge in the first video and then in then darted to the PVC. She does this if she notices me, otherwise she is out of hiding. I don’t think shes thrilled with me at the moment. I had to tare apart my tank to catch her. I just spotted a little pebble looking thing in the second video, it's on her fin. I was able to make two more videos after the initial two.

Just an idea for the future. I like to paint my tanks black in four sides of the tank. Two sides, bottom, and back. The fish take easier to QT and stresses way less until they get comfortable.

I have a 60 long, two 20 longs, and two tens. They are all painted. And one of the 2 longs has been an ongoing QT setup for about a year and a half now. The best thing ever. Always ready for fish.
 
Just an idea for the future. I like to paint my tanks black in four sides of the tank. Two sides, bottom, and back. The fish take easier to QT and stresses way less until they get comfortable.

I have a 60 long, two 20 longs, and two tens. They are all painted. And one of the 2 longs has been an ongoing QT setup for about a year and a half now. The best thing ever. Always ready for fish.
That's a great idea. I will have to do that for next time. What paint do you use?
 
The anthias looks really good except for the eye - alert, but swimming well and not breathing fast. If it were my fish, I'd try it in the DT.

p.s. - no, I don't run UV in my QT, they really don't help like the manufacturers would lead you to believe.

I wish I would record my adventures haha. So as you probably saw in a few of my posts. I use the intake UV for surface agitation. Literally eliminates the need to run bubblers. Well depends which one you run. Aquatop UV’s have a bar that runs multiple ports that awesome for water flow.

Now to the chem side of things. The models I run are the best thing for keeping water free of algae bloom or even bacterial bloom. One reason why I personally will not hesitate dosing prazi cut with everclear 90% for easier mixing. Not long ago I forgot the unit off on one of the QT tanks and boy did the bac bloom like never before. Turned on the UV cleared in less than 24 hours. The fish where breathing just fine no issues or deaths. To consider these UV units as the end all be all for QT wouldn’t go that far, but they, in my opinion, help improve water and thus need to do above the call of duty maintaining of the QT tank.

Before I started using intank UV I would dread QTing haha. No longer an issue. I wish I would get it in my head to document these things better along side pictures. In conclusion it’s a tool I personally would recommend to anyone using copper power or safe.
 
That's a great idea. I will have to do that for next time. What paint do you use?
Nothing in particular. I have masked off the tank and have done spray cans, and then done regular house paint that you roll with a roller. They will get scratched up and things of that nature. So roll on is easier to touch up.

I lost a CB and a Tomini long ago due to clear glass. Put them in the tank, new fish that is, and when lights came on heard some thumps. Poor guys were gonners. They both ran into the glass. Tomini almost died on the spot, and CB it was a few hours later I tired it all with the CB but nothing could have saved it sadly.

This was about 1.5 years ago. Since then I started doing painted tanks and no fish lost to running in with the glass.
 
I wish I would record my adventures haha. So as you probably saw in a few of my posts. I use the intake UV for surface agitation. Literally eliminates the need to run bubblers. Well depends which one you run. Aquatop UV’s have a bar that runs multiple ports that awesome for water flow.

Now to the chem side of things. The models I run are the best thing for keeping water free of algae bloom or even bacterial bloom. One reason why I personally will not hesitate dosing prazi cut with everclear 90% for easier mixing. Not long ago I forgot the unit off on one of the QT tanks and boy did the bac bloom like never before. Turned on the UV cleared in less than 24 hours. The fish where breathing just fine no issues or deaths. To consider these UV units as the end all be all for QT wouldn’t go that far, but they, in my opinion, help improve water and thus need to do above the call of duty maintaining of the QT tank.

Before I started using intank UV I would dread QTing haha. No longer an issue. I wish I would get it in my head to document these things better along side pictures. In conclusion it’s a tool I personally would recommend to anyone using copper power or safe.

You need to be REALLY careful using solvents with praziquantel. I've killed fish due to the resulting bacterial blooms (if I used a bit too much solvent) even with good aeration. I'm basically a lazy aquarist, and pushing prazi through a net takes time, especially with large systems. If I thought that solvents were a good idea, I sure would be using them!

Yes, UV will clear free floating algae and bacterial blooms, but I was talking about the sales point of these units controlling disease.



UV sterilizers

Ultraviolet (UV) sterilizers are also sold as a “cure” for Cryptocaryon. The problem is that most hobbyist-sized UV sterilizers do not have the power to make an effective kill on the relatively large Cryptocaryon parasite. Additionally, UV sterilizers are effective only on the tomite/theront stage, as this is the only point where the parasite is even present in the water column.

For velvet, Amyloodinium, the fallacy here is that tomites/theronts must leave the fish. Actually, some of them may get caught up in the fish’s mucus and stay attached until they become infective trophonts again. For Cryptocaryon, the tomites/theronts do seem to need to leave the fish, but with side stream application of UV (where only a portion of water passes through the unit) DWELL TIME becomes the limiting factor. Only a portion of the theronts are killed before enough of them attach to the fish to continue the infection. This means that UV sterilization will not eliminate active Cryptocaryon infections from a single aquarium. Where it does have benefit is in eliminating tomites as they pass through a filtration system from one discrete tank to another (like in a public aquarium or fisheries lab). Decades ago, diatom filters were touted as cures for ich and velvet. The same issue applies with them; there are adherent forms of these protozoans that can continue to infect the fish without ever having to leave the fish’s body. Even if they do, the same “dwell time” factor means that some theronts will still be present in the water column to infect the fish.

A recent study (Ge-Ling, 2022) indicates that the UV dose required to kill Cryptocaryon theronts/tomites is 185,000 uw/S/cm2. They do go on however, to conclude: “ …both ozone and UV are ineffective in controlling infection within an individual aquarium because of the adhesive nature of C. irritans tomonts (Ma et al., 2017). Therefore, the focus on UV and ozone treatment should prevent live theronts flow into aquaculture ponds. Second, the tomonts are strongly resistant to UV or ozone than theronts, implying that recommended production doses cannot wholly kill tomonts….”
 
You need to be REALLY careful using solvents with praziquantel. I've killed fish due to the resulting bacterial blooms (if I used a bit too much solvent) even with good aeration. I'm basically a lazy aquarist, and pushing prazi through a net takes time, especially with large systems. If I thought that solvents were a good idea, I sure would be using them!

Yes, UV will clear free floating algae and bacterial blooms, but I was talking about the sales point of these units controlling disease.



UV sterilizers

Ultraviolet (UV) sterilizers are also sold as a “cure” for Cryptocaryon. The problem is that most hobbyist-sized UV sterilizers do not have the power to make an effective kill on the relatively large Cryptocaryon parasite. Additionally, UV sterilizers are effective only on the tomite/theront stage, as this is the only point where the parasite is even present in the water column.

For velvet, Amyloodinium, the fallacy here is that tomites/theronts must leave the fish. Actually, some of them may get caught up in the fish’s mucus and stay attached until they become infective trophonts again. For Cryptocaryon, the tomites/theronts do seem to need to leave the fish, but with side stream application of UV (where only a portion of water passes through the unit) DWELL TIME becomes the limiting factor. Only a portion of the theronts are killed before enough of them attach to the fish to continue the infection. This means that UV sterilization will not eliminate active Cryptocaryon infections from a single aquarium. Where it does have benefit is in eliminating tomites as they pass through a filtration system from one discrete tank to another (like in a public aquarium or fisheries lab). Decades ago, diatom filters were touted as cures for ich and velvet. The same issue applies with them; there are adherent forms of these protozoans that can continue to infect the fish without ever having to leave the fish’s body. Even if they do, the same “dwell time” factor means that some theronts will still be present in the water column to infect the fish.

A recent study (Ge-Ling, 2022) indicates that the UV dose required to kill Cryptocaryon theronts/tomites is 185,000 uw/S/cm2. They do go on however, to conclude: “ …both ozone and UV are ineffective in controlling infection within an individual aquarium because of the adhesive nature of C. irritans tomonts (Ma et al., 2017). Therefore, the focus on UV and ozone treatment should prevent live theronts flow into aquaculture ponds. Second, the tomonts are strongly resistant to UV or ozone than theronts, implying that recommended production doses cannot wholly kill tomonts….”

Yes agreed, not using it to perform disease control in the tank. Aeration and blooms of algae or bacterial.

As for dosing, everclear is ethanol. Dosed at .5 ml in 15 gal of water volume. Has yet to be an issue for me. Aside from algae bloom…. But with the UV back on after two days it clears up fast.
 
@Jay Hemdal
Ok, she has been back in the tank three days now and the eye is looking worse. I forgot to weigh her so I don’t have that. She didn’t really eat the first day, and yesterday she was being bullied by my multibar male, I currently have him in time out in an acclimation box. I also added two live rocks to create mor caves. She has been exploring the tank since the multibar has been in time out and is looking curiously around and exploring caves. She has also eaten 2x’s today. I soaked the frozen food in Selcon to help her immune system. I wonder if the eye infection is Uveitis.

IMG_4119.jpeg
 
Last edited:
@Jay Hemdal
Ok, she has been back in the tank three days now and the eye is looking worse. I forgot to measure her so I don’t have that. She didn’t really eat the first day, and yesterday she was being bullied by my multibar male, I currently have him in time out in an acclimation box. I also added two live rocks to create mor caves. She has been exploring the tank since the multibar has been in time out and is looking curiously around and exploring caves. She has also eaten 2x’s today. I soaked the frozen food in Selcon to help her immune system. I wonder if the eye infection is Uveitis.

A multibar angel attacked it? I’m surprised at that, but fish don’t always behave as expected.

I’d feed it 4x a day to ensure it is reaching satiation.
 
A multibar angel attacked it? I’m surprised at that, but fish don’t always behave as expected.

I’d feed it 4x a day to ensure it is reaching satiation.
He didn’t attack her, he was just chasing her a lot and stressing her out. The female multibar doesn’t chase her but the male was. She is way more confident exploring the new tank set up vs when I first released her back in. Thankfully no nipping. Just hopeful this helps her find a new cave without the stress.

I do want to add that the Alk+Ph have been swinging too much lately. I was out of Ph reagent which didn’t help. I have an Apex coming to help monitor pH and dialing in what I should be dosing from Fusion 1 and 2 to keep parameters stable.
 
Sadly she will lose her eye if that bacteria does not get taken care of. In a DT there is was too much going on. Tank mates, critters, rocks, sand. All these things can get her eye damaged all over again.

This is bacterial for sure now. Had a one eye brown tang. And because of not keeping an eye out on the tank water quality it lost its eye. Fully my fault.

I would re QT and do Erythromycin a second round. I would have cleaned out the QT, and restart another round. I know it suck how time consuming it is. These disease take time to get rid of at times.



From fritz Maracyn meds. (Contains Erythromycin, but a lower percentage amount per pack vs erythromycin).

Add the contents of one packet per 10 gallons of water and repeat every 24 hours for 5 days. Repeat this 5 day treatment only once if needed.

Day 1: Add the contents of one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 2: Add one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 3: Add one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 4: Add one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 5: Add one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 6: Perform a 25% water change. Repeat this five-day treatment if symptoms improve, but have not completely disappeared.
 
Sadly she will lose her eye if that bacteria does not get taken care of. In a DT there is was too much going on. Tank mates, critters, rocks, sand. All these things can get her eye damaged all over again.

This is bacterial for sure now. Had a one eye brown tang. And because of not keeping an eye out on the tank water quality it lost its eye. Fully my fault.

I would re QT and do Erythromycin a second round. I would have cleaned out the QT, and restart another round. I know it suck how time consuming it is. These disease take time to get rid of at times.



From fritz Maracyn meds. (Contains Erythromycin, but a lower percentage amount per pack vs erythromycin).

Add the contents of one packet per 10 gallons of water and repeat every 24 hours for 5 days. Repeat this 5 day treatment only once if needed.

Day 1: Add the contents of one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 2: Add one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 3: Add one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 4: Add one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 5: Add one packet per 10 gallons of water.
Day 6: Perform a 25% water change. Repeat this five-day treatment if symptoms improve, but have
I don’t see anything about my Maracyn having less erythromycin, it says its erythromycin.

I would tare down the tank again and catch her but her eye looks better today after working on addressing parameters. I am still not there fully and figuring out my daily consumption to be able to dose Fushion 1 and 2. Also feeding her high quality DKI nutrients and Selcon. I also have Fish Recover and vitamin C coming to help boost her immune system. She ate 3x’s yesterday and has eaten two times so far today. Now that my multibar is contained she is gaining her confidence back and finding her new cave. She even squared off with my clown who attempted to chase her.

The inflammation around her gills is also gone. My gut says she is going to be fine as long as I keep doing what I am doing.
 
I don’t see anything about my Maracyn having less erythromycin, it says its erythromycin.

I would tare down the tank again and catch her but her eye looks better today after working on addressing parameters. I am still not there fully and figuring out my daily consumption to be able to dose Fushion 1 and 2. Also feeding her high quality DKI nutrients and Selcon. I also have Fish Recover and vitamin C coming to help boost her immune system. She ate 3x’s yesterday and has eaten two times so far today. Now that my multibar is contained she is gaining her confidence back and finding her new cave. She even squared off with my clown who attempted to chase her.

The inflammation around her gills is also gone. My gut says she is going to be fine as long as I keep doing what I am doing.

You have a picture of her today?

By weight Fritz Maracyn is only 35%. If you can find the SDS sheet. It’s what I recall seeing when I was researching Erythromycin. So the pure form is going to be just that pure form.
 
Last edited:
You have a picture of her today?

By weight Fritz Maracyn is only 35%. If you can find the SDS sheet. It’s what I recall seeing when I was researching Erythromycin. So the pure form is going to be just that pure form.
I don’t but just got this video of her from my Wyze. Her eye is still swollen but the cloudy spot is smaller than yesterday. It was engulfing her entire eye then and now it’s smaller.
 

Attachments

  • 80482CA928F320260630105243_album_local_cache.mp4
    4.2 MB
I don’t but just got this video of her from my Wyze. Her eye is still swollen but the cloudy spot is smaller than yesterday. It was engulfing her entire eye then and now it’s smaller.
@Jay Hemdal @winxp_man
Just wanted to update you. Significant improvement in swelling and clouding both are nearly completely resolved. I focused on water quality and parameters and had the multibar confident to an acclimation box until he escaped while I was cleaning it. Now he is back to rulling the tank. I also fed DKI line of supplement enriched pellets, soaked in Selcon and garlic. As well as frozen. And have Brightwell Fish Recover M on-hand. Thanks for your help. I see a bit of inflammation around her eye still but hope that improves over time. I adore my little Charlotte and would have been devistated if I had lost her.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4165.jpeg
    IMG_4165.jpeg
    202.6 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_4164.jpeg
    IMG_4164.jpeg
    239.6 KB · Views: 13
He wouldn’t have died but lost an eye for sure. You did well! Awesome to see. And yes that DKI food is awesome stuff. Only thing that sucks is the price. My male maroon clown only eats that stuff. Sucks because it’s pricey haha. And it’s hard to feed just him. The tang indulge well on it also haha.

Keep up what you’re doing now and in a few more days all should be 100%.
 
He wouldn’t have died but lost an eye for sure. You did well! Awesome to see. And yes that DKI food is awesome stuff. Only thing that sucks is the price. My male maroon clown only eats that stuff. Sucks because it’s pricey haha. And it’s hard to feed just him. The tang indulge well on it also haha.

Keep up what you’re doing now and in a few more days all should be 100%.
The struggle was real. My current problem is the multibar that escaped. He is not nipping but is chasing everyone in the tank. He runs that place. Going to try catching him again in the acclimation box/trap. Honestly the swings and nutrient issues were def a prob. We had a basement flood and I wasn't able to do water changes for a bit. I have an Apex coming and am honing in on the consumption rate to dose ca/mg/ak.

Do you have an automatic water changing system?
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHAT MOST EARNS A REEFING BUSINESS YOUR "BEST OF THE BEST" NOMINATION?

  • Excellent livestock or product quality

    Votes: 16 28.6%
  • Honest listings and accurate expectations

    Votes: 8 14.3%
  • Helpful, knowledgeable customer service

    Votes: 4 7.1%
  • Standing behind a product when something goes wrong

    Votes: 12 21.4%
  • Fair prices and good value

    Votes: 7 12.5%
  • A unique selection or innovative products

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Supporting the reefing community or sustainability

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Consistent quality over time

    Votes: 8 14.3%
  • Other (Post in the comments)

    Votes: 1 1.8%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new