Andre’s Full blown 300Gallon SPS Reeftank up within a week ;-)

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@AngryOwl @Crazy Seahorse


A few things here to the key of my success to this tank in the beginning.

The Nitrate reactor was simply a filled container with plenty of bacteria! This reactor was, with the life inside, easily capable to handle a lot of bioload when I introduced it back at the same time I put all the corals back into the tank.

So I simply added a functioning bacteria filled substrate to the tank, with plenty of matured bacteria strains which with the mulm release I seeded the tank again and in addition to the initial boosted cycle I did right in the first few days.



The initial things I did, was to fill the tank with water and dry rock which had a lot of dead organics on it. I dosed a lot of Biodigest and the Vodka as a fertilizer to boost the Biodigest bacteria. That I observed and you saw the second day that the skimmer had to get into the tank since the fouling from the rocks started and also a bacteria bloom occurred (desired).

So in the first few days the bacteria started to superpopulate and I observed Nitrite going down toward zero while observing Nitrates. When Nitrite was gone and Nitrates were still zero, I knew this was the sign that all Nitrite was converted and since Nitrates did not increase, the bacteria amount was able to handle that. Cycle completed ;-)

Well, this is a simple and not very diverse bacteria population of course but Nitrate spikes should not become a problem then, that I knew. And I threw a very few SPS in there, to see if they make it and there are no other issues from Vodka or other substances.



That was the basis for me to introduce all my tank inhabitants and SPS back into the tank.

The additional bacteria strains in the reactor, I needed to take care of the rest of the organic waste, I trusted my Nitrate reactor which is not just for Nitrates as you can imagine. So the mulm release seeded the tank and dry rock in the tank, while the pellets in the reactor provided the needed Carbohydrates as a food source for the bacteria.



A similar thing I could have done while using Liverock from an existing tank, and keep it all submerged all the time and transfer it to a new tank. Important is to keep the rocks submerged all the time! When following along this thread you will at some point see when I will transfer this full tank 2 more times ;-)



So a tank needs two/three things (not considering lights,skimmer, etc.) mainly to be successful and these 2 things must work flawlessly:

Biology is the first, the tank has to function and need to maintain a cycle while using decent amount of carbohydrates, not too much, otherwise you may negatively impact the oxygen household, stress corals, and fertilize pathogenic bacteria just waiting to explode ;-) So while tanks become a haze in the water, the bacteria count is very high, with the likelihood of increased pathogenic bacteria as well! Keep that into account. That is why I went away from traditional carbon sources to “fuel” the tank, and prefer the fueling and hosting of bacteria in a separate container of filter system.

The other factor is chemistry! You won’t believe how many “good” ICP results were given to me which made me freaking out if it would be my tank, lol. Crazy Seahorse, publish your mentioned ICP results here and I have a good look at it.

In my case I struggled a bit with TN here and there in the first few weeks until I got my ICP results and I was shocked by some of the missing contents. Did the corrections and TN stopped from that point on. Partially it’s because it will make the SPS healthier, and healthy corals are not just more beautiful, they are also much more resistant against parasites and pathogenic bacteria! I can’t stress out the fact how much benefit you gain from a routinely monitored chemistry via ATI ICP tests if you know what to look for ;-) With the chemistry in check, it makes life easier, and reduces swings on the minor elements without chasing numbers! I hope this year I can become a sponsor and talk and advertise my Trace element method officially on R2R.

Third less but of significant importance is the achieved health of the corals, from the 2 subjects above. Sometimes it needs only one specific element to be out of whack and it impacts a lot of the biological processes in the tank, bringing swings and leading to other elements to be out of whack. Calcification as far we know is not just ALK, Ca and Mag! We also learned over the last decade that Potassium, Strontium, Barium and maybe others are an important factor to the calcification process.



To summarize this quick, and it has enough to write books about it, functioning biology, excellent chemistry, “not” excessive bacteria count is a big key to success.



Last but not least I like to say that here, by not really achieving the above factors, health of the SPS is weak, and a lot of times I do see that TN occurs since the parasites and pathogens in the tanks are on the stronger side, killing the corals that we have.

It all comes back to the health of the corals guys!!! A strong healthy person likely won’t get a cold or flu, at least not that easy ;-)

With the recent experience I make with certain problem tanks, these 2 factors taken care of, it led to extreme improvements of tanks. Easy said, I know ;-)
 
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By the way, I had yesterday evening a Coral Spawning event...... awesome ;-)

Will post some pictures shortly of the eggs me and my daughter were able to catch and placed under the microsope ;-)
 

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@AngryOwl @Crazy Seahorse


A few things here to the key of my success to this tank in the beginning.

The Nitrate reactor was simply a filled container with plenty of bacteria! This reactor was, with the life inside, easily capable to handle a lot of bioload when I introduced it back at the same time I put all the corals back into the tank.

So I simply added a functioning bacteria filled substrate to the tank, with plenty of matured bacteria strains which with the mulm release I seeded the tank again and in addition to the initial boosted cycle I did right in the first few days.



The initial things I did, was to fill the tank with water and dry rock which had a lot of dead organics on it. I dosed a lot of Biodigest and the Vodka as a fertilizer to boost the Biodigest bacteria. That I observed and you saw the second day that the skimmer had to get into the tank since the fouling from the rocks started and also a bacteria bloom occurred (desired).

So in the first few days the bacteria started to superpopulate and I observed Nitrite going down toward zero while observing Nitrates. When Nitrite was gone and Nitrates were still zero, I knew this was the sign that all Nitrite was converted and since Nitrates did not increase, the bacteria amount was able to handle that. Cycle completed ;-)

Well, this is a simple and not very diverse bacteria population of course but Nitrate spikes should not become a problem then, that I knew. And I threw a very few SPS in there, to see if they make it and there are no other issues from Vodka or other substances.



That was the basis for me to introduce all my tank inhabitants and SPS back into the tank.

The additional bacteria strains in the reactor, I needed to take care of the rest of the organic waste, I trusted my Nitrate reactor which is not just for Nitrates as you can imagine. So the mulm release seeded the tank and dry rock in the tank, while the pellets in the reactor provided the needed Carbohydrates as a food source for the bacteria.



A similar thing I could have done while using Liverock from an existing tank, and keep it all submerged all the time and transfer it to a new tank. Important is to keep the rocks submerged all the time! When following along this thread you will at some point see when I will transfer this full tank 2 more times ;-)



So a tank needs two/three things (not considering lights,skimmer, etc.) mainly to be successful and these 2 things must work flawlessly:

Biology is the first, the tank has to function and need to maintain a cycle while using decent amount of carbohydrates, not too much, otherwise you may negatively impact the oxygen household, stress corals, and fertilize pathogenic bacteria just waiting to explode ;-) So while tanks become a haze in the water, the bacteria count is very high, with the likelihood of increased pathogenic bacteria as well! Keep that into account. That is why I went away from traditional carbon sources to “fuel” the tank, and prefer the fueling and hosting of bacteria in a separate container of filter system.

The other factor is chemistry! You won’t believe how many “good” ICP results were given to me which made me freaking out if it would be my tank, lol. Crazy Seahorse, publish your mentioned ICP results here and I have a good look at it.

In my case I struggled a bit with TN here and there in the first few weeks until I got my ICP results and I was shocked by some of the missing contents. Did the corrections and TN stopped from that point on. Partially it’s because it will make the SPS healthier, and healthy corals are not just more beautiful, they are also much more resistant against parasites and pathogenic bacteria! I can’t stress out the fact how much benefit you gain from a routinely monitored chemistry via ATI ICP tests if you know what to look for ;-) With the chemistry in check, it makes life easier, and reduces swings on the minor elements without chasing numbers! I hope this year I can become a sponsor and talk and advertise my Trace element method officially on R2R.

Third less but of significant importance is the achieved health of the corals, from the 2 subjects above. Sometimes it needs only one specific element to be out of whack and it impacts a lot of the biological processes in the tank, bringing swings and leading to other elements to be out of whack. Calcification as far we know is not just ALK, Ca and Mag! We also learned over the last decade that Potassium, Strontium, Barium and maybe others are an important factor to the calcification process.



To summarize this quick, and it has enough to write books about it, functioning biology, excellent chemistry, “not” excessive bacteria count is a big key to success.



Last but not least I like to say that here, by not really achieving the above factors, health of the SPS is weak, and a lot of times I do see that TN occurs since the parasites and pathogens in the tanks are on the stronger side, killing the corals that we have.

It all comes back to the health of the corals guys!!! A strong healthy person likely won’t get a cold or flu, at least not that easy ;-)

With the recent experience I make with certain problem tanks, these 2 factors taken care of, it led to extreme improvements of tanks. Easy said, I know ;-)


I think that nitrate reactor was the key here in regards to the success and quick prorogation of supporting biological bacteria. I think I can sleep easier now.

I wonder how different you would have done things or your experience would be if that reactor was not in play. Do you imagine the result would have taken longer than 1 week?
 
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I think that nitrate reactor was the key here in regards to the success and quick prorogation of supporting biological bacteria. I think I can sleep easier now.

I wonder how different you would have done things or your experience would be if that reactor was not in play. Do you imagine the result would have taken longer than 1 week?
I prepped another tank via partial Liverock from an existing tank, transferred all rock while keeping it submerged. Then with daily Biodigest as an insurance and carbon dosing and slowly ramping up the bioload within two weeks, the tank started flawless.

On another tank, I did cure dry and Liverock in a large bucket with a skimmer, pump, biodigest, heater and vodka shots until nitrates were zero. An initial No3 spike you got to wait for usually.

With a tank from scratch, I would do install an entire system and run it! Would dose Biodigest and Vodka daily until No3 is down and Nitrite is gone, expecting 5 days to do so. 1st day 5-6 time the recommended dosage of Biodigest and subsequent days 2x the dosage. Vodka likely 20ml per 100 gallon. Then for a few days 4-5ml per 100 gallon Vodka. After the first week, sending out an ICP test and stop Vodka. Then would fill up the tank with some hermits, fish, and snails and corals and watch No3 daily, while increasing fish and especially corals daily. Keeping Corals submerged all the time to avoid sliming. Would gently run activated pelletized carbon all the time. Feed a bit daily.
Then the challenge is to mature the tank quick with microorganism which is easy by using high quality Liverock. Doing this, I would have a full box of Biodigest on hand and a bottle of Dr.Tim's Eco Balance just in case No3 spikes again.
So all this doesn't consider the very challenging aspect of major traces and Alkalinity adjustments. Ideally you should be home when doing this, otherwise take more time then 2 weeks and stretch the Livestock filling a bit out. Important is to somewhat increase the Livestock gradually, and not all in once. Otherwise the nutrients fluctuation will cause stress and makes the corals more sensitive to TN and other diseases.
 

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Awesome read and always admire your scientific approach .
What do you think of running a new system on zeovit method with UV sterilizer on it ?
People on zeovit forum says it a big no no as the UV , if implemented properly will reduce the effect of the zeobak .
Can it be done with running the zeovit reactor on opposite cycles to the UV sterilizer or keeping the sterilizer off for 4-5 hours after dosing zeobak or run UV only at night for 6-8 hours ?
By UV am referring to pentair aquatics 40 watt rated for a 250 gallon system but applied on a 180 gallon system .

Regards,
Abhishek
 
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Awesome read and always admire your scientific approach .
What do you think of running a new system on zeovit method with UV sterilizer on it ?
People on zeovit forum says it a big no no as the UV , if implemented properly will reduce the effect of the zeobak .
Can it be done with running the zeovit reactor on opposite cycles to the UV sterilizer or keeping the sterilizer off for 4-5 hours after dosing zeobak or run UV only at night for 6-8 hours ?
By UV am referring to pentair aquatics 40 watt rated for a 250 gallon system but applied on a 180 gallon system .

Regards,
Abhishek
I just started my Zeolith reactor a few weeks backs and still gaining experience with it.
The large UV I was running I took off!
When running carbon along the Zeolith media, then there should be no need for the UV to reduce partially Toxins and other stuff as well as clearing the water column. The issue with UV is that it will deactivate a lot of bacteria hence it makes sense to keep it off all the time. But again, it may be worth a try.

I do run the Zeolith not in line with the classic Zeovit method even while using Zeostart and Zeobak. Right now I encountered an issue with the Hanna reagents where I measure 30-200ppb from the same water sample which is likely an issue with the reagents. I was wondering why my Po4 is swinging so largely from day to day and thought it was the setting with the reactor and the amount of Zeostart, but likely the swing is from the reagents :-(
Waiting now for new reagents to test the Po4.

Tonight I will modify the Zeolith Vibe reactor and will extend the volume from 4 to 6 Liter, since I feel I need more Zeolith in the reactor to host more bacteria. Nitrates are slowly going down toward zero, but I keep them up via dosing around 1, while Po4 is likely still too high for my taste. But this is hard to say where exactly Po4 is with these reagents.........
 

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Did you run the zeo reactor all day long or did you cut it off and on. I started mine back up and cylce it on and off every 3 hours.
 

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@AngryOwl @Crazy Seahorse


A few things here to the key of my success to this tank in the beginning.

The Nitrate reactor was simply a filled container with plenty of bacteria! This reactor was, with the life inside, easily capable to handle a lot of bioload when I introduced it back at the same time I put all the corals back into the tank.

So I simply added a functioning bacteria filled substrate to the tank, with plenty of matured bacteria strains which with the mulm release I seeded the tank again and in addition to the initial boosted cycle I did right in the first few days.



The initial things I did, was to fill the tank with water and dry rock which had a lot of dead organics on it. I dosed a lot of Biodigest and the Vodka as a fertilizer to boost the Biodigest bacteria. That I observed and you saw the second day that the skimmer had to get into the tank since the fouling from the rocks started and also a bacteria bloom occurred (desired).

So in the first few days the bacteria started to superpopulate and I observed Nitrite going down toward zero while observing Nitrates. When Nitrite was gone and Nitrates were still zero, I knew this was the sign that all Nitrite was converted and since Nitrates did not increase, the bacteria amount was able to handle that. Cycle completed ;-)

Well, this is a simple and not very diverse bacteria population of course but Nitrate spikes should not become a problem then, that I knew. And I threw a very few SPS in there, to see if they make it and there are no other issues from Vodka or other substances.



That was the basis for me to introduce all my tank inhabitants and SPS back into the tank.

The additional bacteria strains in the reactor, I needed to take care of the rest of the organic waste, I trusted my Nitrate reactor which is not just for Nitrates as you can imagine. So the mulm release seeded the tank and dry rock in the tank, while the pellets in the reactor provided the needed Carbohydrates as a food source for the bacteria.



A similar thing I could have done while using Liverock from an existing tank, and keep it all submerged all the time and transfer it to a new tank. Important is to keep the rocks submerged all the time! When following along this thread you will at some point see when I will transfer this full tank 2 more times ;-)



So a tank needs two/three things (not considering lights,skimmer, etc.) mainly to be successful and these 2 things must work flawlessly:

Biology is the first, the tank has to function and need to maintain a cycle while using decent amount of carbohydrates, not too much, otherwise you may negatively impact the oxygen household, stress corals, and fertilize pathogenic bacteria just waiting to explode ;-) So while tanks become a haze in the water, the bacteria count is very high, with the likelihood of increased pathogenic bacteria as well! Keep that into account. That is why I went away from traditional carbon sources to “fuel” the tank, and prefer the fueling and hosting of bacteria in a separate container of filter system.

The other factor is chemistry! You won’t believe how many “good” ICP results were given to me which made me freaking out if it would be my tank, lol. Crazy Seahorse, publish your mentioned ICP results here and I have a good look at it.

In my case I struggled a bit with TN here and there in the first few weeks until I got my ICP results and I was shocked by some of the missing contents. Did the corrections and TN stopped from that point on. Partially it’s because it will make the SPS healthier, and healthy corals are not just more beautiful, they are also much more resistant against parasites and pathogenic bacteria! I can’t stress out the fact how much benefit you gain from a routinely monitored chemistry via ATI ICP tests if you know what to look for ;-) With the chemistry in check, it makes life easier, and reduces swings on the minor elements without chasing numbers! I hope this year I can become a sponsor and talk and advertise my Trace element method officially on R2R.

Third less but of significant importance is the achieved health of the corals, from the 2 subjects above. Sometimes it needs only one specific element to be out of whack and it impacts a lot of the biological processes in the tank, bringing swings and leading to other elements to be out of whack. Calcification as far we know is not just ALK, Ca and Mag! We also learned over the last decade that Potassium, Strontium, Barium and maybe others are an important factor to the calcification process.



To summarize this quick, and it has enough to write books about it, functioning biology, excellent chemistry, “not” excessive bacteria count is a big key to success.



Last but not least I like to say that here, by not really achieving the above factors, health of the SPS is weak, and a lot of times I do see that TN occurs since the parasites and pathogens in the tanks are on the stronger side, killing the corals that we have.

It all comes back to the health of the corals guys!!! A strong healthy person likely won’t get a cold or flu, at least not that easy ;-)

With the recent experience I make with certain problem tanks, these 2 factors taken care of, it led to extreme improvements of tanks. Easy said, I know ;-)
Well, thank you for the usefull info. Some of the things you mention, I have done in the early start.
I migth be easier if I try to describe how I did. I started with dead LR, put together in atolls. Made the water (Rodi of course). Then I added 70 kg new LR from Fiji. I added a few LR from the old tank (still running). Skimmer, pumps and ligth was running. The algeafase started. Not much in the skimmercup. When the green long algea started to decay, I sucked it out and harvested some of it by hand. Waited until I couldn´t meassure any nitrite and then I added a cuc (Small hermits and snails). After a period whith the algea decreasing I added a fish (Siganus coralinus) to eat some of the algea. I started to add Prodibio. Startdose was 3 pro ampules. Then I added a test coral.
This was done in a period of around 3-4 months. I added 2 ampules of prodibio pro every two weeks. Then I added some more corals. Not much, but a few. After around 9 months I tranfered half of the corals from the excisting tank to the two frag tanks, that is on the system. All the time I was measurring the three big and Po4 and No3 (not detectable) Put some more fish into the system, two or three at the time (mostly surgeons, they seemed satisfied, much more space) No loss in fish at all.
Everything looked well, a little slow, but ok. Everyday I measurred the three big and added what was needed. 01.09.18 I started the calcium reactor. I had a consumption of 1 Kh/daily. I transfered the rest of the corals. The remaining LR from the excisting system, was transfered to one of the sumps where I made a semi cryptic zone, with a lot of sponges and other small stuff. Kept almost in the dark and with a very little flow. (this migth play a role in my strugle to get some No3 in the system).
I added some more new corals, but they loose colors slowly. I tried to dose some No3. 3,5 ml/day (2.700 liters in the system)
Like @AngryOwl I had some of the old corals, that were doing quite well. After 2-3 months they suddenly die. It is really confusing, because it is not alle corals that are suffering. Some looks even happy. I have to dose nitrate on a daily basis. If not, then the No3 will be not detectable. I feed a lot. I use flakes and meassure the amount every day. 2,5 grams/day witch I raised to 3 grams yesterday. I stopped dosing prodibio, because I thougth that they was counteracting my attemps to increase the No3. But I have them ready if needed. Thats about it, in short. Hope that I´ve got the most importand keypoints in this write.
@PSXerholic you asked for the icp test. Here it is along with the N-DOC test. Excited to hear your opinion, if you get more out of it than I did.
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/68154/
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-a/n-doc/1657/
 

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Just to make a short comment, on the No3 reading in the N-DOC test. It says 2.34 N/no3 calculated.
My own measurement from the same water was 0,25. I have had a conversation about this with @PSXerholic because it gave me some frustrations. If I can´t be sure about my own readings, with the same testset than most reefers are using, what am I going to do then? It seems like I could dip my finger in the water - and taste it and make my conclusions from that. Its really confusing. I have tested the water with two different testsets, the one I use normaly and a brand new test set. None of them are out of date. I even had my reefbuddy to watch me do the tests. I got the same result with both test sets.
 
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Did you run the zeo reactor all day long or did you cut it off and on. I started mine back up and cylce it on and off every 3 hours.
I run flow through it continuously, do a small dose of Zeostart very 2 hours, and shake it for a minute in the night. I do not follow the classic Zeo guide.
 
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Well, thank you for the usefull info. Some of the things you mention, I have done in the early start.
I migth be easier if I try to describe how I did. I started with dead LR, put together in atolls. Made the water (Rodi of course). Then I added 70 kg new LR from Fiji. I added a few LR from the old tank (still running). Skimmer, pumps and ligth was running. The algeafase started. Not much in the skimmercup. When the green long algea started to decay, I sucked it out and harvested some of it by hand. Waited until I couldn´t meassure any nitrite and then I added a cuc (Small hermits and snails). After a period whith the algea decreasing I added a fish (Siganus coralinus) to eat some of the algea. I started to add Prodibio. Startdose was 3 pro ampules. Then I added a test coral.
This was done in a period of around 3-4 months. I added 2 ampules of prodibio pro every two weeks. Then I added some more corals. Not much, but a few. After around 9 months I tranfered half of the corals from the excisting tank to the two frag tanks, that is on the system. All the time I was measurring the three big and Po4 and No3 (not detectable) Put some more fish into the system, two or three at the time (mostly surgeons, they seemed satisfied, much more space) No loss in fish at all.
Everything looked well, a little slow, but ok. Everyday I measurred the three big and added what was needed. 01.09.18 I started the calcium reactor. I had a consumption of 1 Kh/daily. I transfered the rest of the corals. The remaining LR from the excisting system, was transfered to one of the sumps where I made a semi cryptic zone, with a lot of sponges and other small stuff. Kept almost in the dark and with a very little flow. (this migth play a role in my strugle to get some No3 in the system).
I added some more new corals, but they loose colors slowly. I tried to dose some No3. 3,5 ml/day (2.700 liters in the system)
Like @AngryOwl I had some of the old corals, that were doing quite well. After 2-3 months they suddenly die. It is really confusing, because it is not alle corals that are suffering. Some looks even happy. I have to dose nitrate on a daily basis. If not, then the No3 will be not detectable. I feed a lot. I use flakes and meassure the amount every day. 2,5 grams/day witch I raised to 3 grams yesterday. I stopped dosing prodibio, because I thougth that they was counteracting my attemps to increase the No3. But I have them ready if needed. Thats about it, in short. Hope that I´ve got the most importand keypoints in this write.
@PSXerholic you asked for the icp test. Here it is along with the N-DOC test. Excited to hear your opinion, if you get more out of it than I did.
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/68154/
https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-a/n-doc/1657/

Ok, I think on the biology you did a good job to cycle the tank. Dropping nutrients that way seems you managed that very well.
Now, while reading through the post I smelled you screwed on the chemistry which I mentioned is the second important factor to a successful tank. It sounded like a Trace element starving tank, and when looking through the ICP results, it was confirmed that there are some things significant missing and overall low traces confirm that the tank is starving on Traces.
So here a quick summary of my opinion after becoming really good at that, lol:
The first link worked, the second test link did show an error.
I would recommend to perform ATI test, since they also test your RODI and Fluoride levels as well as Nitrate.
Unwanted metals is almost zero except Aluminum, but this is low, no concern.
Ca with 427 is great
Mg with 1293 is good, but recommend 1350 as target
Potassium is low with 375, recommend to maintain 400 at least, better pimp it to 410 to have some buffer when tank is start to thrive
Bromine is far too low, NSW is 65, however better pimp it to 85 for metallic shimmer and better colors
Boron with 2,5 is too low. Maintain 4 at least, better pimp to 7 which seems to be a sweet spot for orange and reds.
Strontium at 4.8 is borderline ok but on the lower end, I would pimp it to 10 to allow some buffer when tank is starting to thrive
Lithium is below NSW, would not do anything, but it speaks for a potential low trace tank.
Nickel, Ok to be zero, but would pimp it to 2.5, here again it speaks for low trace tank.
Molybdenum is too low, would maintain 10-12 at least, but would pimp it to 15 to have some buffer
Vanadium, Ok to be zero, but would dose a bit to maintain 1-2, but optional later
Zinc, Ok to be zero, but would pimp it to 5, here again it speaks for low trace tank.
Manganese is zero, as expected and usually doesn't find a way for normal hobbyists to be in the tank. I dose 0.2microgram/L per day, others I recommend to start with daily 0.1 at least. It boosts fluorescence and metabolism.
Iodine is superlow, I consider less than 20microgram/L depleted. You should start do a regimen of daily Iodide dosing as I instruct my followers to do! Ideally having 40-50 at least, better is 70-80 but needs some time to get there over a couple of ICP tests to identify the daily drops of Iodide needed. Iodide too low or too high causes faded corals.
Chromium not detectable, which I expected and Ok, however I do dose 0.1microgram daily which is an optional advanced reefer element
Cobalt not detectable, which I expected and Ok, which is an optional advanced reefer element
Iron not detectable, which is good.
Barium a bit high which is OK, it should not be less than 8-10, I keep it at 15 at least to have some buffer
Silicates are pretty low. Algae consume this a lot, hence low if the RODI system works great ;-)
Phosphates are low but detectable and in a good range.
You should do some research about the Redfield ratio if Algae issues still aply in the tank.

Overall, the chemistry is not Ok for a colorful and thriving reef tank, nutrients are not the main issue here and dosing nutrients won’t bring colors back in my experience. Hope it helps.
 
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Just to make a short comment, on the No3 reading in the N-DOC test. It says 2.34 N/no3 calculated.
My own measurement from the same water was 0,25. I have had a conversation about this with @PSXerholic because it gave me some frustrations. If I can´t be sure about my own readings, with the same testset than most reefers are using, what am I going to do then? It seems like I could dip my finger in the water - and taste it and make my conclusions from that. Its really confusing. I have tested the water with two different testsets, the one I use normaly and a brand new test set. None of them are out of date. I even had my reefbuddy to watch me do the tests. I got the same result with both test sets.
I could not open the test, however Nitrate kits all differ a bit in results. Use it as trending and an idea, lol.
Remember @Ryanbrs did once a test and a Video about the different test kits for Nitrates.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/vide...racy-of-nitrate-test-kits-and-why-it-matters/
 

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I could not open the test, however Nitrate kits all differ a bit in results. Use it as trending and an idea, lol.
Remember @Ryanbrs did once a test and a Video about the different test kits for Nitrates.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/vide...racy-of-nitrate-test-kits-and-why-it-matters/
I think there are two phases here.
1) ability to keep corals (sps) alive
2) achieving maximum growth and color

You can't be concerned about phase 2 if you can't complete phase 1. What I think @Crazy Seahorse is addressing is corals dying that should be able to at least survive, as opposed to thrive.

I feel like your suggestions above are geared towards phase 2 and colors more than the ability to simply add something to a tank and have it survive.

If you start feeding me less calories and vitamins than I require each day, I will simply survive and look horrible... but if you give me the appropriate amount of calories and vitamins I have the ability to thrive.
 
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Interesting observation while playing around with the amount of Zeostart.
Increased Zeo from 2ml per day to 4-5ml per day, seems to affect ORP quite significant :mad:
 
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Zeolith reactor modification from 4 to 6 Liter coming along slowly :eek:
Drilled the hole pattern yesterday on the extension, which is a 2 Liter Vibe reactor chamber.

Today I will setup the Router to grind the bottom out ;)
Then I need to figure out how to connect and extend the pipe inside for water supply.
 
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Can you overdose bacteria like biodigest or the zeo bacteria.
Sure you can!!!! But.......

There are multiple different cocktails of bacteria on the market, Vibrant, Biodigest, Dr.Tim's products, Fritz products, Microbacter, AF and KZ bacterial products etc. just to name a few of them.

You need to understand all these bacteria are a mix of specific strains and families that will depend on the mix and contents do a certain job. A lot of times I do see a plenty of white bacteria to consume nitrates and nitrite, ammonia etc. to do a certain job. Vibrant is fantastic to clean the tank from certain debris growing all over the tank, however there is always a potential overdose possible depending on the amount of bacteria food in the tank.
Here is the risk of overdosing specific bacteria superpopulate suddenly and causing a tank crash in worse case!!!

So be careful with excessive or mixing bacteria additions.
Biodigest, I have used so many times in very high dosages by myself, that I feel most confident with. The clear ampule indicates already a very clean bacteria mix, with not that much white bacteria.
 

Stuck to your aquarium: Do you put reef-related stickers on or around your reef system?

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