Another PAR question

[Js.Aqua.Project]

So I have been running this frag tank for a while now, and my parameters have been stable but the SPS are pale (growing but pale). I have been keeping the tank stable at these for 7ish months, so I don't think it is from parameter shifts.

Parameters:
SG 1.024
Ca 450
dKH 11.5
Mg 1350
NO3 < 2ppm (normally around 1ppm but never higher than 2ppm)
PO4 < .08ppm (normally closer to .04ppm)

I have an Apogee MQ-200 meter so I took these readings.


I have some chalices under the SPS rack because I know they don't want as high PAR as the SPS, which is why I included the numbers below the rack.

I put the SPS on a tall rack two weeks ago so that I did not have to increase the PAR all across the tank for the softies (primarily zoas) that are on the bottom.

The tank has 3 Hydra 26HDs over it running the following schedule and max:




I still have more room to increase the PAR, is that the best solution? I also have an AquaticLife BYO LED hybrid fixture coming in next week. To help get the PAR more even across the tank.

Suggestions?

 

[dantimdad]

I think your alkalinity may be a bit high.

But, I wouldn't think that would pale them out.

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

I would point parameter if they were receding/dying, but they're actively growing. The coloration is just poor.

I believe I read that corals throw off their colors via a protein reaction in their tissue (similar to a sun burn), I just don't know if maybe my PAR isn't in the right range to cause the reaction.

 

[dantimdad]

Try extending the photo period since your PAR isn't super high.

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

Should I just extend the overall period including the time at max? Or should I just stretch how long it is at max?

 

[dantimdad]

Stretch how long it's at max.

Do this slowly to acclimate them.

Increase by half an hour every week or so.

 

[jda]

Did you apply the correction factor for the Apogee 200 meter?

Those are pretty low numbers for SPS. Longer photoperiod or more output would be good.

Bad coloration can also be from bad spectrum - I would get green, red and white up. More daylight bring out better colors, then blue to illuminate them.

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

Did you apply the correction factor for the Apogee 200 meter?

Those are pretty low numbers for SPS. Longer photoperiod or more output would be good.

Bad coloration can also be from bad spectrum - I would get green, red and white up. More daylight bring out better colors, then blue to illuminate them.

Do you have a rough PAR range I should shoot for? Unfortunately I don't have a spectrometer to check actual spectrum.

These numbers were rounded down after multiplying original number by 1.08 per Apogee manual to compensate for water deflection.

 

[jda]

In a frag tank, like 300 to 350. You can do 750 with T5 or MH, but I would not go much over 350 with your Hydras. That one spot over 250 seems fine, but the rest seem lacking to me.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

You definitely need a longer peak photoperiod
I have 2 52hds over my 50 gallon cube display
Here’s mine

 

[Dana Riddle]

This might help in calculating your actual light intensity with the Apogee 200:
https://www.apogeeinstruments.com/how-to-correct-for-spectral-errors-of-popular-light-sources/
Multiply reading by 1.08 to correct for the immersion effect.
If I am reading your chart correctly, your peak intensity is around 8 hours?
In my opinion, the intensity of your deep red and cool white (which contains red) is too high. Researchers in Hawaii established back in the 1980's that red light regulates zooxanthellae density/chlorophyll content. Decrease red and increase green slowly.
What does RY stand for on your chart?

 

[SDK]

RY = Royal Blue

I’m also only seeing two hours at peak power on that first schedule...

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

This might help in calculating your actual light intensity with the Apogee 200:
https://www.apogeeinstruments.com/how-to-correct-for-spectral-errors-of-popular-light-sources/
Multiply reading by 1.08 to correct for the immersion effect.
If I am reading your chart correctly, your peak intensity is around 8 hours?
In my opinion, the intensity of your deep red and cool white (which contains red) is too high. Researchers in Hawaii established back in the 1980's that red light regulates zooxanthellae density/chlorophyll content. Decrease red and increase green slowly.
What does RY stand for on your chart?

My numbers were rounded off after multiplying for the immersion effect.

For AquaIllumination lights, RY is Royal Blue.

My Red and Greens are at 8% and White at 10%, do you recommend decreasing the R down to 5% and white as well?

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

RY = Royal Blue

I’m also only seeing two hours at peak power on that first schedule...

Correct, my settings only had it a peak for 2 hours, I have changed it to 3 hours now, next week I will up it to 4.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

This might help in calculating your actual light intensity with the Apogee 200:
https://www.apogeeinstruments.com/how-to-correct-for-spectral-errors-of-popular-light-sources/
Multiply reading by 1.08 to correct for the immersion effect.
If I am reading your chart correctly, your peak intensity is around 8 hours?
In my opinion, the intensity of your deep red and cool white (which contains red) is too high. Researchers in Hawaii established back in the 1980's that red light regulates zooxanthellae density/chlorophyll content. Decrease red and increase green slowly.
What does RY stand for on your chart?

RY stands for royal but the lighting chart your referring to is not the OP’s, it’s mine, and I’m not having any problems. I was just showing the OP that a longer peak period will work.

 

[Dana Riddle]

Help an old man (me) out here. I'm confused about your lighting schedule (I'm seeing two schedules and intensities.) What is your current intensity and photoperiod on each channel? If it has been changed lately, how long ago?

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

Help an old man (me) out here. I'm confused about your lighting schedule (I'm seeing two schedules and intensities.) What is your current intensity and photoperiod on each channel? If it has been changed lately, how long ago?

I extended the photo period yesterday, but did not change any intensities. (The % at the top are my peak percentages)

The lights are now on a total of 12 hours, with 3 hours at peak intensity. (Edit: They were previously on for 10 hours total w/ 2 at peak)

 

[Dana Riddle]

Many (not all!) coral colorful proteins are produced in response to light intensity, particularly violet and blue wavelengths (and some UV-A wavelengths made by LEDs.) But intensity plays a part as well. Generally, intensity should be at or slightly above the photosaturation point (this varies among zoox clades but it is usually 300 to 400 PAR.) Together, intensity and photoperiod, If proper, will make the coral animal produce colorful proteins (they possibly act as antioxidants.) With that said, red light will regulate zoox density/photopigment content. In aquatic environments, red light is indicative of full sun, while blue is found in shaded areas or deeper water. The reverse is true in terrestrial environments - blue is full sun, while redder light is found in shaded areas. Neat, huh?) To recap, use as much violet/blue light as you can stand (while also minimizing red - your clownfish can look orange - that's OK.No red light will make them look muted or black.) Keep PAR at 300 to 400. A maximum PAR is OK for more than 3 or 4 hours. 6 to 8 should do it with ramping for a total of 10 to 12 hours.) Go slowly, allow for chromatic adaptations. Be aware there are deeper water corals that don't like a lot of light (Acans, chalices, deep water Acros.) Make any changes slowly. Also, pH and metal contamination can affect coloration. As hobbyists, we (I) would like simple answers. But reef aquaria are dynamic, complex environments and seemingly small differences can have profound effects.

 

[Js.Aqua.Project]

Thanks @Dana Riddle over the next few weeks I will up my PAR level on the SPS shelf to ~300 and the max photo period. My plan is to increase the photoperiod by one hour/week then I will start increasing the PAR in 10% increments weekly.

 

[Dana Riddle]

Thanks @Dana Riddle over the next few weeks I will up my PAR level on the SPS shelf to ~300 and the max photo period. My plan is to increase the photoperiod by one hour/week then I will start increasing the PAR in 10% increments weekly.

Sounds good! Keep us posted!