its bluer than you think. You every taken a pic while diving without a red filter?
Anyone still prefer the 10K look, or even 6.5K? What's with all the windex colored tanks?
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its bluer than you think. You every taken a pic while diving without a red filter?
No filter or any white balancing. Depths 20 (goby) - 30ft (clam) - 40ft (wide shot).
You have to go to depths of 150+ to get the blue look of a blue tank. I could try and dig up some pics I took around 120ft and they look similar to the pics above.
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JLynn
Active Member
12-14K is ideal for me. I don't hate the super blue lighting, but I prefer to have a more balanced sort of coloration from all my corals. So for the corals without neon pigmentation, plenty of white light, but a fair tinge of blue, to make the neon in the corals noticeable.
blasterman
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I've done a lot of color analysis and correction for divers back in the film days. The dominant color shift was more cyan than blue. The picture of the clam above was about right. In clearer water and deeper the shift was more blue, but not even close to the 450nm royal blue dominant in reef lights.
6500, 10k and 14k artifical light sources can vary quite a bit in terms of spectral peaks and look way different on reef tanks. Radium vs Phoenix bulbs, etc. Things get a lot less weird at 6500, but its still a pseudo white light source.
True, full spectrum white light sources dont exist for reef tanks unless you count rare plasma bulbs. Typical white balanced reef lights still don't look anything like sunlight under water.
6500, 10k and 14k artifical light sources can vary quite a bit in terms of spectral peaks and look way different on reef tanks. Radium vs Phoenix bulbs, etc. Things get a lot less weird at 6500, but its still a pseudo white light source.
True, full spectrum white light sources dont exist for reef tanks unless you count rare plasma bulbs. Typical white balanced reef lights still don't look anything like sunlight under water.
Badboyan93l
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Omg, you’re rank look similar to mine! lol same fish, I just a few others. Two questions, you have a 125g and running Kessils? Lol
Badboyan93l
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Ha! I knew it, it looks fantastic. Are you able to share your schedule ?
cryptodendrum
Community Member
So I do run both:
DT #1 - a Reef Tank at about 8000K - 14,000K depending on time of day.
DT #2 - (not pictured, but same as DT #1)
DT #3 - a dedicated Anemone tank that's always at 6000K
All three DT's share the same sump and water supply via pipes under the floors. Sump / Refugure and more working / fragging / breeding tanks are in a dedicated fish room.
The reason I run my dedicated Anemone tanks at 6000K was something of a happy accident. I used to run them under the same AI HydraHD's that I use for my Reef Tanks, but what I started finding out after I switched from T-5's to HydraHD's was my Anemones started acting up a few months after that. I've had these same anemones for as long as we've been in this house (since 2005) and have farmed a lot of Anemones for trade / swap / sell. But it was like after I switched to Hydra's (and yes, I acclimated for a long time to take it nice and easy) the anemone's became unhappy & started roaming & floating about. They would inflate, but not quite as large as they used too.
Then one turned up in my sump - which is approx 15 meters of PVC piping under the floor away from the DT's. I had a few clownfish fry and juvenile grow out tanks in my fishroom, so I just threw that anemone from the sump into one of those tanks, thinking the clownfish getting to the size to be sold, would love to have their own anemone. I only had some 6000K Utility LED lights on the clownfish tank, just for purposes of seeing the clownfish babies - not growing corals or anemones. But that anemone loved that light & it opened up back to it's previous full size I'd been looking for.
BTW, just a reminder, the whole system shares all the same water; the clownfish growout tanks have the same water supply as my DT's in the other room.
Then another anemone made the journey to the sump, about 2-3 months later. So it got another growout tank of it's own, and also the same 6000K utility light spectrum. And it too, seemed happier. Then my beautiful green BTA disappeared from my anemone tank, but he did not make it to the sump. I tore the anemone tank apart, and could not find him. At that point, I decided to transfer the rest of my Red BTA's to the fishroom, into some spare clownfish breeding tanks under the same utility lights. They also seemed to do better. So I decided to convert my DT #2 from an anemone tank to a Reef Frag tank.
Eventually, I converted DT #3 underneath my DT #1, into a new dedicated Anemone tank but this time using the same utility lights I used in the dedicated fish room. The anemone's seemed happier with this.
There is a bit of a downside to this - I think when I take pictures of both of these tanks together, issues with the light spectrum and white balance of the camera end up making the bottom tank look like someone peed in it, and makes the diatoms in the sand look browner than they do in person. And trying to adjust the white balance so the Anemone tank doesn't look so yellow relative to the reef tank, results in washing out the colors of the reef tank to some degree (the monti's are much more vibrant looking in the reef tank in person).
But, the anemones seem to like it the best. Further, I've noticed since this conversion (in 2018) that the coraline grows heavy in purple and maroon in the Anemone tank, which doesn't seem to grow in my Reef Tanks (but I do get a little bit of pink coraline in my reef tanks).
I grow only Chaeto in my refuge, but last year, I decided to make my Anemone look a little more like a shallow water environment & add a couple of species of calupra. And around that time (approx 8-9 months ago), I thought "I wonder if it will grow my Monti's?" and sure enough, you can see in the photo, those 6000K utility lights are growing that Monti, right up the side of the glass.
So yeah, I use both 6000K and the much bluer 14-ish K spectrums for different applications on the same system of tanks. In person, I like the look of them both, but in photos - not as much.
DT #1 - a Reef Tank at about 8000K - 14,000K depending on time of day.
DT #2 - (not pictured, but same as DT #1)
DT #3 - a dedicated Anemone tank that's always at 6000K
All three DT's share the same sump and water supply via pipes under the floors. Sump / Refugure and more working / fragging / breeding tanks are in a dedicated fish room.
The reason I run my dedicated Anemone tanks at 6000K was something of a happy accident. I used to run them under the same AI HydraHD's that I use for my Reef Tanks, but what I started finding out after I switched from T-5's to HydraHD's was my Anemones started acting up a few months after that. I've had these same anemones for as long as we've been in this house (since 2005) and have farmed a lot of Anemones for trade / swap / sell. But it was like after I switched to Hydra's (and yes, I acclimated for a long time to take it nice and easy) the anemone's became unhappy & started roaming & floating about. They would inflate, but not quite as large as they used too.
Then one turned up in my sump - which is approx 15 meters of PVC piping under the floor away from the DT's. I had a few clownfish fry and juvenile grow out tanks in my fishroom, so I just threw that anemone from the sump into one of those tanks, thinking the clownfish getting to the size to be sold, would love to have their own anemone. I only had some 6000K Utility LED lights on the clownfish tank, just for purposes of seeing the clownfish babies - not growing corals or anemones. But that anemone loved that light & it opened up back to it's previous full size I'd been looking for.
BTW, just a reminder, the whole system shares all the same water; the clownfish growout tanks have the same water supply as my DT's in the other room.
Then another anemone made the journey to the sump, about 2-3 months later. So it got another growout tank of it's own, and also the same 6000K utility light spectrum. And it too, seemed happier. Then my beautiful green BTA disappeared from my anemone tank, but he did not make it to the sump. I tore the anemone tank apart, and could not find him. At that point, I decided to transfer the rest of my Red BTA's to the fishroom, into some spare clownfish breeding tanks under the same utility lights. They also seemed to do better. So I decided to convert my DT #2 from an anemone tank to a Reef Frag tank.
Eventually, I converted DT #3 underneath my DT #1, into a new dedicated Anemone tank but this time using the same utility lights I used in the dedicated fish room. The anemone's seemed happier with this.
There is a bit of a downside to this - I think when I take pictures of both of these tanks together, issues with the light spectrum and white balance of the camera end up making the bottom tank look like someone peed in it, and makes the diatoms in the sand look browner than they do in person. And trying to adjust the white balance so the Anemone tank doesn't look so yellow relative to the reef tank, results in washing out the colors of the reef tank to some degree (the monti's are much more vibrant looking in the reef tank in person).
But, the anemones seem to like it the best. Further, I've noticed since this conversion (in 2018) that the coraline grows heavy in purple and maroon in the Anemone tank, which doesn't seem to grow in my Reef Tanks (but I do get a little bit of pink coraline in my reef tanks).
I grow only Chaeto in my refuge, but last year, I decided to make my Anemone look a little more like a shallow water environment & add a couple of species of calupra. And around that time (approx 8-9 months ago), I thought "I wonder if it will grow my Monti's?" and sure enough, you can see in the photo, those 6000K utility lights are growing that Monti, right up the side of the glass.
So yeah, I use both 6000K and the much bluer 14-ish K spectrums for different applications on the same system of tanks. In person, I like the look of them both, but in photos - not as much.
Devaji
5000 Club Member
are you a savage pod cast listener by chance??
Chris Nias
New Member
My plans for my mixed reef tank using two XR30s blue + Aquaticlife T5 hybrid with 2 ATI blue plus, 1 ATI coral plus and 1 ATI aquablue special.
Can this combination look white? Because I'm also very happy with the natural look.
Can this combination look white? Because I'm also very happy with the natural look.
FusionCorals
New Member
I run my frag tanks with 2x Hydra 32hd and a custom schedule. The spectrum is set for approximately 12K Kelvin. The blues ramp up faster than the green/red/white in the morning. During mid-day (11am-4pm) UV/Blues/White are the same intensity, while the red/green are at 1/3 the intensity. The photo below was taken a few minutes ago without any software manipulation, except for cropping the picture. My camera settings are:
Canon 18-55mm lens
21mm extension tube
Camera white balance @ 7100K
f14, ISO200, 0.8sec
We truly believe that customers should be able to see what they will receive.
Best Regards,
Paul
Canon 18-55mm lens
21mm extension tube
Camera white balance @ 7100K
f14, ISO200, 0.8sec
We truly believe that customers should be able to see what they will receive.
Best Regards,
Paul
Beautiful and perfect color!I run my frag tanks with 2x Hydra 32hd and a custom schedule. The spectrum is set for approximately 12K Kelvin. The blues ramp up faster than the green/red/white in the morning. During mid-day (11am-4pm) UV/Blues/White are the same intensity, while the red/green are at 1/3 the intensity. The photo below was taken a few minutes ago without any software manipulation, except for cropping the picture. My camera settings are:
Canon 18-55mm lens
21mm extension tube
Camera white balance @ 7100K
f14, ISO200, 0.8sec
We truly believe that customers should be able to see what they will receive.
Best Regards,
Paul
FusionCorals
New Member
Thank you zalick. It is my mission to to provide transparent and accurate descriptions of the specimens.
shoring up some trending predicted a couple years ago
whats the take on white vs blue lighting here Pat
B
www.reef2reef.com
as we had been discussing a few pages back, you can anecdote something long enough it becomes codified in reefing (pico reefs, peroxide, phosphate boosting for lowering cyano and dinos outbreaks, and more)
people are routinely finding a little bit better algae growback suppression from running blues and reduced whites, vs heavy whites like we were discussing really does seem to be a trend in algae problems.
Im sure LED plays a large part, 10K metal halides may not have been as impactful?
whats the take on white vs blue lighting here Pat
B
Should I switch to all blue?
Hi, I've just got a bargain spare blue LED and was wondering if it is beneficial to switch to all blue lighting? I currently have two 24 inch led tubes, one white and one blue. Every tank in my LFS is lit by just blue light and the corals seem a lot healthier than mine, although in fairness...
www.reef2reef.com
as we had been discussing a few pages back, you can anecdote something long enough it becomes codified in reefing (pico reefs, peroxide, phosphate boosting for lowering cyano and dinos outbreaks, and more)
people are routinely finding a little bit better algae growback suppression from running blues and reduced whites, vs heavy whites like we were discussing really does seem to be a trend in algae problems.
Im sure LED plays a large part, 10K metal halides may not have been as impactful?
Brandon3152134
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I can't stand the blue look I run all my lights a cool white t5/xr15. It's fun to look at now and then but I couldn't keep it on 24/7shoring up some trending predicted a couple years ago
whats the take on white vs blue lighting here Pat
B
Should I switch to all blue?
Hi, I've just got a bargain spare blue LED and was wondering if it is beneficial to switch to all blue lighting? I currently have two 24 inch led tubes, one white and one blue. Every tank in my LFS is lit by just blue light and the corals seem a lot healthier than mine, although in fairness...
as we had been discussing a few pages back, you can anecdote something long enough it becomes codified in reefing (pico reefs, peroxide, phosphate boosting for lowering cyano and dinos outbreaks, and more)
people are routinely finding a little bit better algae growback suppression from running blues and reduced whites, vs heavy whites like we were discussing really does seem to be a trend in algae problems.
Im sure LED plays a large part, 10K metal halides may not have been as impactful?
What we had been discussing was it’s utility in algae suppression for thousands of users of windex mode
completely agreed on the look it’s easier to see reef details in white mode
on prior pages it was mentioned how the whites bring out algae and that sounded ludicrous at that time to Pat, but trending shows…
completely agreed on the look it’s easier to see reef details in white mode
on prior pages it was mentioned how the whites bring out algae and that sounded ludicrous at that time to Pat, but trending shows…
I could never do the all blue look.
Many lfs do in order to sell corals.
I run 14K with OR3 blue sky, plus bars. The bars give the corals deeper colors with the halides on.
I only see all blue for 15 minutes before and after the mains are on.
The whites bring out the algae is laughable, imo.
Many lfs do in order to sell corals.
I run 14K with OR3 blue sky, plus bars. The bars give the corals deeper colors with the halides on.
I only see all blue for 15 minutes before and after the mains are on.
The whites bring out the algae is laughable, imo.
No it’s not laughable, you just manage your own tank so the sourcing pool is 1
if you make it a habit this year to manage algae invasion and growback in others tanks, then in 2023 when you have (30) ongoing examples from others tanks, that we can read, that’ll give room to comment on what works for others. You can see the trending easily, easily, by simple searching. A majority, not the minority, disagrees with you.
Heavy whites cause algae issues, let’s give it another year I’ll be sure and link more examples not just from my tank (1) but of the trending we can see unfolding in the hobby, especially from algae management posts not from posts where there isn’t any.
all skip/non quarantine advice functions this exact way, from a set of 1 vs any degree of outbound pattern collection. Folks get to shape what they release as proof when dealing solely in their own
when making the time to manage others tanks, algae, fish disease, and provide a years look back as links~ 100% opposite. That’s why nearly everyone won’t do pattern link logging in others reefs for any subject, their own tank sets the recommend for everyone, that allows complete control over outcomes.
Darn nice reef above agreed it’s algae free. In 2022 hop into ten algae challenge help posts
fix the issue and specifically have them lower blues and way up the whites, link those ten threads here at the end of the year. Start now so we have some patterning months to inspect
if you make it a habit this year to manage algae invasion and growback in others tanks, then in 2023 when you have (30) ongoing examples from others tanks, that we can read, that’ll give room to comment on what works for others. You can see the trending easily, easily, by simple searching. A majority, not the minority, disagrees with you.
Heavy whites cause algae issues, let’s give it another year I’ll be sure and link more examples not just from my tank (1) but of the trending we can see unfolding in the hobby, especially from algae management posts not from posts where there isn’t any.
all skip/non quarantine advice functions this exact way, from a set of 1 vs any degree of outbound pattern collection. Folks get to shape what they release as proof when dealing solely in their own
when making the time to manage others tanks, algae, fish disease, and provide a years look back as links~ 100% opposite. That’s why nearly everyone won’t do pattern link logging in others reefs for any subject, their own tank sets the recommend for everyone, that allows complete control over outcomes.
Darn nice reef above agreed it’s algae free. In 2022 hop into ten algae challenge help posts
fix the issue and specifically have them lower blues and way up the whites, link those ten threads here at the end of the year. Start now so we have some patterning months to inspect
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You dont even know me so your source pool of one is laughable.
Honestly I dont care what most others think. I have been doing this for 30+ years.
I know and have seen many tanks with algae issues and most run ultra blue systems now.
All 3 lfs have major algae issues and they are all blue systems.
Their is so much more to algae control than lights.
Thats why I find it laughable.
Im not an expert, my systems speak for themselves, but most make reefing way harder than it needs to be.
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I was making the point it works well for you obviously
but not for others, and that we won’t be getting any chances to inspect what does work for others unless people spend time working jobs for others where those helped can give their independent evals
I do jobs like that.
as a function of working with others tank challenges I’m stating directly that heavy tilt to white lights causes problems in algae challenge tanks, and blue helps suppress the issues, and that the public can see that for themselves now by simple searches
the trending is changing
it’s common nowadays to see it in the assessment process if we work algae challenge posts, but if we do not, then it seems laughable as written.
all recommends for non quarantining comes from folks who for thirty years didn’t need it, see the trend? It’s about what works now, not thirty years ago, things have changed?
but not for others, and that we won’t be getting any chances to inspect what does work for others unless people spend time working jobs for others where those helped can give their independent evals
I do jobs like that.
as a function of working with others tank challenges I’m stating directly that heavy tilt to white lights causes problems in algae challenge tanks, and blue helps suppress the issues, and that the public can see that for themselves now by simple searches
the trending is changing
it’s common nowadays to see it in the assessment process if we work algae challenge posts, but if we do not, then it seems laughable as written.
all recommends for non quarantining comes from folks who for thirty years didn’t need it, see the trend? It’s about what works now, not thirty years ago, things have changed?
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