Anyone still prefer the 10K look, or even 6.5K? What's with all the windex colored tanks?
- Thread starter Mark
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Love whites. I think a lot of us are assuming that everyone has a box full of winded because of our photography skillsBefore LED's became the preferred lighting solution, you had two camps of reefers. Folks that preferred the white(6.5K,10K) look with some blue actinic at dawn dusk, and those that were in the 20K camp. 20K was popular with SPS keepers. I was a daylight look reefer, and preferred the appearance that mimicked what I would see snorkeling a shallow reef.
I used to run Iwasaki's back in the day, and eventually graduated to Ushio metal halides. Then I went to T5's and still focused on a whiter look during the day.
Now I'm 100% LED, and I find I run my whites much higher than the settings shared by others. I've downloaded settings to my AI Hydras that others promote on forums/facebook out of curiousity, and they are all very blue in spectrum. I feel like I'm out of touch. Whenever folks post full tank shots, they look like windex or a blacklight poster from some kid's dorm room. I recognize LED tanks are harder to photograph true to color and I'm sure these tanks are not that blue in person. Hell, my white tank looks more blue in photos than in person.
I'd love to hear from folks that still crank up the white LED's on their systems. Let's see some shallow water reefs with nice sunshine glimmer lines. Here's mine, and yes it looks bluer due to the iphone camera(no filter), but it's around a 12K spectrum on the AI Hydras. I'm tempted to crank up the whites further and get more towards a 10K spectrum. Anyone have issues with the white LED's set to 100%?
there is some fascinating interplay between color tuning and burning of corals/light induced bleaching after a reef tank is moved or upgraded using out sandbed cleaning approach so that the new tank doesn't recycle.
lowering white intensity in transfer tanks completely stopped prior coral bleaching we were seeing, and what BRS saw on their single logged sand removal attempt.
the # move we make during reef CPR for any mistake or insult event that can kill a reef is to dial down the light intensity.
or turn them off
that's before the water change, before the testing and guess level response dosing etc
lighting modulation is a big deal in reefing and color tuning is part of that activity.
any reef can be adapted to the color preference of the keeper over time, these abilities to alter white vs blue settings are handy dynamics for initial tuning and in response to reef challenges, upgrades or sand cleaning/removal jobs.
lowering white intensity in transfer tanks completely stopped prior coral bleaching we were seeing, and what BRS saw on their single logged sand removal attempt.
the # move we make during reef CPR for any mistake or insult event that can kill a reef is to dial down the light intensity.
or turn them off
that's before the water change, before the testing and guess level response dosing etc
lighting modulation is a big deal in reefing and color tuning is part of that activity.
any reef can be adapted to the color preference of the keeper over time, these abilities to alter white vs blue settings are handy dynamics for initial tuning and in response to reef challenges, upgrades or sand cleaning/removal jobs.
Last edited:
Revnobody
Active Member
I've always been a Phoenix 14k kind of guy. I've tried to get my LED's to have a similar look and they are close, but nothing compares to a MH. However, I'll take "close" over the heat and energy consumption any day.
ReefHomieJon
Well-Known Member
The “windex look” is from running all blue plus t5 bulbs. My kessil light settings are very very visually appealing.... violets purples blues, OH MY!
RobW
Valuable Member
I start in the morning with the blue and purple look as the sun rises my lights get whiter. Reverse in the evening. I like all the spectrums. Too blue looks unrealistic. Its nice to see the corals in their natural look as well.
Both. I use kessils, so I just have it change it during the day. Morning starts out with 0% white, but ramps up to 70% over the first hour. Then over the middle of the day the intensity increases. I'm not sure what K that would be, but around 10kish I would guess. The blue is not noticeable, but there is still enough to give a little pop to the coral while maintaining the overall white look. I want to be able to see the fish.
In the evening it does similar to the morning, but the white turns down to 0% while the intensity is stays higher, after it gets to 0% white, the intensity starts to drop over the next 2 hours until the lights go out. That is optimal coral viewing time in terms of bright colors.
In the evening it does similar to the morning, but the white turns down to 0% while the intensity is stays higher, after it gets to 0% white, the intensity starts to drop over the next 2 hours until the lights go out. That is optimal coral viewing time in terms of bright colors.
KK's Reef
Valuable Member
I too love that natural sunlight look, like what I would find in a tide pool or snorkling shallow water. I never liked the deep blue look in a reef tank. I get it though... the blue spectrum brings out some insane colors in most corals.Before LED's became the preferred lighting solution, you had two camps of reefers. Folks that preferred the white(6.5K,10K) look with some blue actinic at dawn dusk, and those that were in the 20K camp. 20K was popular with SPS keepers. I was a daylight look reefer, and preferred the appearance that mimicked what I would see snorkeling a shallow reef.
I used to run Iwasaki's back in the day, and eventually graduated to Ushio metal halides. Then I went to T5's and still focused on a whiter look during the day.
Now I'm 100% LED, and I find I run my whites much higher than the settings shared by others. I've downloaded settings to my AI Hydras that others promote on forums/facebook out of curiousity, and they are all very blue in spectrum. I feel like I'm out of touch. Whenever folks post full tank shots, they look like windex or a blacklight poster from some kid's dorm room. I recognize LED tanks are harder to photograph true to color and I'm sure these tanks are not that blue in person. Hell, my white tank looks more blue in photos than in person.
I'd love to hear from folks that still crank up the white LED's on their systems. Let's see some shallow water reefs with nice sunshine glimmer lines. Here's mine, and yes it looks bluer due to the iphone camera(no filter), but it's around a 12K spectrum on the AI Hydras. I'm tempted to crank up the whites further and get more towards a 10K spectrum. Anyone have issues with the white LED's set to 100%?
My pico is currently cycling but I'm guessing my A80 will lean towards the white light spectrum for at least half of the lighting period.
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I run primarily blue LED, but then open my windows and just recently installed a single T5 white daylight behind LEDs. Love the look full blue LED with natural sunlight with T5 white. Looks HD to me.
I do. 10k Hamilton bulbs and a Photon V2 tuned to look the same.
No
I haven’t had much luck in the FB forum based on some of my past ‘pro-QT’ posts. So I stick to places that are less hostile.
plus I don’t like all the shenanigans and drama in management, behind the scenes.
What channel settings get you 10k on the Photon? I have yet to find a look with mine I'm happy with.I do. 10k Hamilton bulbs and a Photon V2 tuned to look the same.
reefinatl
Well-Known Member
FB is so garbage anyways I don't even have a FB account, haven't in about a decade. I stick to their actual forum. I hear you on the drama, this winter was a Emmy award level drama.
through the day 1,2,5,6 60% 3 30% 4 52%
Turning 3 up makes everything grey
You have to use the red and green everyone avoids.
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