Apex DOS DIY level switch?

bozoreefer

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If you find that Cusereefer is no longer selling them, and you have no means to do the soldering of the board, I can offer to solder the components for you......You would have to send me the board and components and I can get it all soldered up. I am sure you can get the components here:
Thanks again for contacting Cuse for me.

I also sent him a message on the Neptune forums. I haven't heard back from him.

Thanks for the link as well.

I'll just need to find all the components.

If you were to buy the components and send it to your place, can you send me a paypal invoice to include labor and shipping as well?


I have a solder, but I've never soldered anything onto a board before.
Thanks
 

bozoreefer

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I wonder where else I can get the board at if he isn't selling that particular board.
 

androidx1

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Thanks again for contacting Cuse for me.

I also sent him a message on the Neptune forums. I haven't heard back from him.

Thanks for the link as well.

I'll just need to find all the components.

If you were to buy the components and send it to your place, can you send me a paypal invoice to include labor and shipping as well?


I have a solder, but I've never soldered anything onto a board before.
Thanks
Just order all the stuff, and then send it to me once you get everything........I'll solder everything and send it back to you.
You don't need to pay me for the soldering......just helping out a fellow reefer....
I cant guarantee anything, but I will put it together the best of my abilities.....Ive done some electronics work so its not really a big deal for me to solder the components on the board.
 

bozoreefer

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Have you heard back from Cuse? I haven't yet.

I still need to order this stuff :(
 

Raptor72

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I finally made the time and soldered the plug to show the icon on Fusion. It was pretty easy. The hardest part was trying to figure out how to configure the volume for my container. After looking it up on YouTube, it’s good to go. Thanks for the write up.

024F453C-8FF9-48AB-85D1-AEBE8D73F894.jpeg 794BE9A4-B2C9-47D5-8A30-1C88E9B92F2E.jpeg
 

DesertReefer51

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This is why I enjoy forums, threads like this. To Cusereefer and others, great job in finding the shortcomings.

I've been reading the thread, still have several pages to go. My understanding is this allows the Apex unit's 6 pin input to be utilized for alternative purposes other than the intended DDR? I'm still in the building stage of my system and will have a 20g reservoir so this would be a good use for monitoring the level of fresh Rodi water.

I'm not familiar with the Apex system but I read the switches (optical or other) will be displayed on the desktop dashboard but not on the mobile fusion software? Does this limit any usage when using outside of the home?

Again, awesome work
 

Jeffapm

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Your cable looks like mine does. As far as the sensors they should be fine. I like the fact you can use them for any level sensing (not being tied to the DDR) and not use ports on a Breakout Box

where did you both get the connectors for the optical sensor connector? I’m striking out for what everyone is recommending
 

NinnJinn

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Does anyone currently make the ones that just monitors your level WITHOUT the sensors?

Basically I am using my DOS for AWC, My 44gal brute has fresh SW in it. However, I have to have the brute pulled half way out from under my countertop in order to keep track of the SW level by peeking under the lid.

I already have the lid drilled and Dos tube along with rodi tube inserted, However cannot lift lid up enough to check on level if brute is pushed all the way back under the countertop.

I basically want a setup to where I can get on the dashboard and put in 151,416ml and when DOS does a water change the 151,416ml will drop so I know how much SW I have left.
 
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emvanburen

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I have cables that just have on resistor between two of the pins. Activates fluid level monitoring. However there is a max volume - don’t recall what it was but could be smaller than your trash can.
 

homer1475

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All you have to do is get the molex connector and plug it in. I didn't even have to solder anything, add a resistor, or anything.

I simply bought the plug from a few pages back, cut the extra end off, and plugged it in. I have the DDR tile on my fusion page. You can then enter the value for your container in fusion and monitor it. I have mine setup for 2 gallons, not sure if there is a volume limit on the DDR container in fusion or not, but 2 gallons works just fine.

I also just wanted the tile on my fusion page to monitor the level without any float/optical switches.
 

djray77

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All you have to do is get the molex connector and plug it in. I didn't even have to solder anything, add a resistor, or anything.

I simply bought the plug from a few pages back, cut the extra end off, and plugged it in. I have the DDR tile on my fusion page. You can then enter the value for your container in fusion and monitor it. I have mine setup for 2 gallons, not sure if there is a volume limit on the DDR container in fusion or not, but 2 gallons works just fine.

I also just wanted the tile on my fusion page to monitor the level without any float/optical switches.

so it activates the DDR tile via a jumper I am guessing?
I build computers as a hobby also, I have a ton of PCI-Express 6pin connector I am going have to try this.
 

djray77

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wow 2 connectors at $30 bucks, my as well just buy them from this guy right??
 

rioreef

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Does anyone currently make the ones that just monitors your level WITHOUT the sensors?

Basically I am using my DOS for AWC, My 44gal brute has fresh SW in it. However, I have to have the brute pulled half way out from under my countertop in order to keep track of the SW level by peeking under the lid.

I already have the lid drilled and Dos tube along with rodi tube inserted, However cannot lift lid up enough to check on level if brute is pushed all the way back under the countertop.

I basically want a setup to where I can get on the dashboard and put in 151,416ml and when DOS does a water change the 151,416ml will drop so I know how much SW I have left.


Get the DDR tile activated, run one DOS pump in reverse to remove old SW and set the volume for the DDR tile at zero. The other pump running forward add the new SW has the volume set to 151400. Make sure you have the water lines on the correct side of each pump for what they are doing.

Add a float switch near the bottom of the brute container. Mine is at the 5 gallon left mark. Run this to a breakout box and set up a notification when the switch is activated. I used a horizontal float installed through the side of the brute container.

I also run a powerhead in the brute to keep the water in motion. But turn is off when about 10 gallons are left, so it does not interfere with the float switch.
 

rioreef

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Salt_Creep

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Thank you to CuseReefer who traced all of this out long ago, and to everyone else who has helped contribute. Just to make it clear for anyone just looking at this. I just got a DOS and set it up for AWC. I was surprised to learn that I could not get volume measurements without having the DDR, which is how I found this page.

To unlock the volume tile, all that I did was buy a "Mini 6 PIN PCI-E" cable for $6. Using the the Pin-out diagram from CuseReefer on page 1 post #18, I cut the cable and wire-nutted the wires for pins 6 and 4 together and plugged it into the DOS. Refreshed Fusion and the tile popped right up! That's all if you just want the volume tile to keep track of your holding tank volume.
 

Ltlevil1

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Anyone have a problem with the Cuse BOB not registering switch changes? I ordered everything and built the BOB box and hooked to my PM2. The switches showed up in the new tiles. I have a conventional BOB already installed and working as well. To test the switches and avoid the Fusion delay I changed the code for my sump lights to trigger off the optical sensor on the Cuse BOB. If I type code:
Set Off
If SWX "Name of Cuse Optical switch" Closed Then On
Nothing happens whether the optical sensor is submerged or not
If I change code to If Open Then On the lights come on.
I even added both lines- if open then on/if closed then off.
They just stay on. I even tried to jump out the regular float switch analog terminal and no change.
To verify I currently have these lights set up on a reed switch with a conventional BOB and they work fine. I also tried multiple sensors and even moved them to each port on the cuse box just to make sure my 8 pin cable didnt have some weird crossover happening.
All continuity looked to be in order with my meter. The only thing I can think is maybe I got sent 680 ohm instead of 6.8K ohm resistors. Testing across the 390's (soldered and installed) I ranged from 373 to 389. Just what is expect. However on the 6.8k I saw 670's to 680's. I did pay attention if there was a decimal point or if it truly was only ~680 ohms. I'll have to look again tonight, but thought I'd ask while I'm at work to see if someone else may have run across this. And for those who haven't read both threads (this one and the one @ Neptune) Cuse got blacklisted with no PM contact for profiting from these. Then he made a deal to get out of jail if he "donated" x % of proceeds here. I dont know him personally but I get the distinct impression he was disheartened by the whole thing. He wasnt going to retire from this and what he was charging. I think he was just trying to help the community. If you read his statement @ OSHPark he specifically says if try and sell these I'll take the design down. And if you also click the details he gives you a complete bill of materials including part#'s. I'll get off my rant before I get dinged, but wanted to say thanks to Cuse and let those who haven't heard from him the likely reason why...
 

Ltlevil1

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In case anybody looks at this later I double checked and the resistors are correct. I have three of these and all do the same thing. I have PM'd Cuse on Neptune Forumn but haven't heard back.
 

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