Aquarium and electrical safety

[BeanAnimal]

Nothing is ever easy, is it? How would I know if this applies to one of my heaters?

Use a digital or analog meter to check continuity between the ground pin on the plug and the heater’s shell.

 

[BeanAnimal]

How do I know if my outlets are on dedicated circuits ? I had 2-3 new GFCi outlets installed by an electrician for the tank. Are they automatically on dedicated circuits or not necessarily ?

Turn breakers off one at a time and map what receptacles go dead.

 

[zbrusko]

Nothing is ever easy, is it? How would I know if this applies to one of my heaters?

Use a digital or analog meter to check continuity between the ground pin on the plug and the heater’s shell.

Ok, I do have a multimeter. Can you explain this process like I’m seven years old? I think I know what you mean, but I want to be certain.

 

[Troylee]

I think the issue with AFCI false trips has been subdued by DC pumps. Most people aren’t using AC powered huge pumps anymore.

On that same note I swapped my GFCI protected outside/exterior circuit to a combo and have had some issues. When I’m outside using a power hungry chop saw or something similar it will sometimes trip. We both know about how motors etc on start up see an amperage spike and I believe that’s the issue. It doesn’t happen often but more likely with the combo understandable. I built my entire 30x20 deck and believe it tripped 3-4 times.

Mine pops every time my halides kick on.. I’ve tried lots of different scenarios to no avail.. those are the only things on my tank that’s not hooked to a gfci.

 

[jonelder68]

Mine pops every time my halides kick on.. I’ve tried lots of different scenarios to no avail.. those are the only things on my tank that’s not hooked to a gfci.

Yes I could see halides being an issue with AFCI. Or are you saying just GFCI?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Unplug the heater. Lay it on the table. Set the meter to Ohms 0-100 or 0- 1000, or continuity check if the meter has that function. Make sure the probes are plugged into the continuity ports on the meter if there are multiple ports.

Touch one probe to the ground pin only of the plug. The other lead to the heater’s metal shell.

If reading Ohms, the reading should be close to 0. If reading continuity the meter will beep.

Post a photo of the meter if you need more help.

 

[zbrusko]

Unplug the heater. Lay it on the table. Set the meter to Ohms 0-100 or 0- 1000, or continuity check if the meter has that function. Make sure the probes are plugged into the continuity ports on the meter if there are multiple ports.

Touch one probe to the ground pin only of the plug. The other lead to the heater’s metal shell.

If reading Ohms, the reading should be close to 0. If reading continuity the meter will beep.

Post a photo of the meter if you need more help.

Thank you! I’ll report back tomorrow.

 

[Troylee]

Yes I could see halides being an issue with AFCI. Or are you saying just GFCI?

They were popping a afci in my kitchen that I put in and still do it in my garage on a standard gfci. It’s annoying to say the least lol.

 

[jonelder68]

They were popping a afci in my kitchen that I put in and still do it in my garage on a standard gfci. It’s annoying to say the least lol.

On start up I’d assume? Or just randomly?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Yes I could see halides being an issue with AFCI. Or are you saying just GFCI?

core and coil ballasts will often trip GFCIs due to large I rush current needed to saturate the coil, causing a temporary current Imbalance and large capacitive coupling causing leakage current.

AFCIs see the plasma arc or starting arc as a fault. Pulse start ballasts being a major problem.

 

[skey44]

Hate to hear this news.
Always enjoyed Miami’s posts and knowledge. Know his tank was always incredible. Hard to believe. Was just encouraging him to let TSA film his tank. Awful news.

 

[SpyC]

What is the final verdict on gfci + grounding probes. Do you want a grounding probe? If you do, do you plug it into the gfci or other outlet?

 

[UncommonSense]

What is the final verdict on gfci + grounding probes. Do you want a grounding probe? If you do, do you plug it into the gfci or other outlet?

You want a grounding probe only if you have a GFCI, and you plug the grounding probe into the GFCI outlet, or power strip which is plugged into the GFCI outlet!

 

[Jarob]

Ignoring nuisance trips and ground probe debates and focussing on HUMAN safety:

At the very minimum I would suggest ground fault protection (RCD in other parts of the world) for all of the equipment that services the aquarium. Either breakers or receptacles. Both are effective.

Arc fault circuit breakers add a protection against arcing shorts. They could detect some power strip failures.

Many power strips fail because they melt and catch fire before the breaker sees enough current to trip. The culprit is often salt creep either direct or due to evaporating drips. The arc fault breaker may or may not see this, since AFCIs detect line-to-neutral or line-to-ground arcing but not always carbon tracking or parallel leakage through salt. The later is a common cause of failure. The parallel leakage through the salt (the same as carbon tracking) produces tremendous amounts of heat without tripping the breaker. The heat melts the power strip, allowing the contacts to loosen, generating even more resistance and heat. The result is often an non-arcing fault that creates a fire. Commercial quality power strips can help to reduce the risk. They have a metal frame with real NEMA 5-15 receptacles instead of soft plastic bodies that hold cheap copper bus strips. the metal frame is grounded and will trip the GFCI and the UL rated NEMA receptacle will not melt (nearly as easily).

A ground probe (only if you have GFCI protection). This will allow the GFCI to detect fault current in the tank and trip the breaker before you ever put your hand in the water. Without GFCI protection, a ground probe increases hazard.

Use only actual UL/CSA listed equipment and avoid China knock offs. While they may have agency listings, they are often fake. You should be able to find the UL/CSA listing for the device at the agency website. Also be aware that many manufacturers will use a UL listed component and build their unlisted device around it, then fraudulently display the device as listed. So stick with well regard name brands with traceable certifications.

As mentioned above a simple receptacle tester can confirm polarity and basic miswire. If you find an issue, call an electrician. This is very important if you have more than one circuit feeding your aquarium. If the circuits are on two different legs from your panel then there is 220 V of potential between the hot conductors, not just 110 V.

While balancing load to the panel is important, I would recommend that if you are going to use 2 or 3 branch circuit breakers for redundancy, that they be on the same leg. This limits fault voltage potential to 110V.

Always be aware of the risk. Test GFCIs regularly. To be sure, the "test" button on a GFCI does test the device by sending fault current through the comparator. If the test button fails, the device has failed and needs to be replaced.

Be aware of your surroundings. ALWAYS Inspect for salt creep, leaks, UV damaged or physically damaged wires.

Use the one hand rule when possible. One hand in the tank, one at the side or behind the back. Stand on dry, insulated flooring. Shocks are unpleasant, but a shock through the arms crosses the heart and can be deadly, even at low current.

Note that the uninsulated body (bare feet on concrete, arm in the tank for example, ) would allow the GFCI to trip of no ground probe were used, but that is a risk not worth taking. Use the ground probe to route fault current, not potentially (no pun) your body. Without a ground probe and with an insulated body, the fault may not clear (trip the GFCI) but you don't get shocked either.

Never ground the tank to multiple different grounds or an isolated ground. The ground probe MUST go to the ECG (ground pin or wire) feeding a receptacle. If there us more than one ground probe, ground them all to the same common spot.

Assume that epoxy potted pump motors (cheap power heads, AC magdrive pumps, etc.) will eventually fail and may create a fault if submerged. So plan to replace them on some fixed schedule before they shock you or trip the GFCI.

NEVER fully submerge the head of a heater. The heater should be placed in a fixed water-level compartment with the head out of the water. Prefer heaters that have a test tube shape instead of those with two open ends that are plugged. NEVER allow a heater to run dry. If it does, throw it away.

Circuit breakers are not meant to protect you. They protect the branch circuit wire. GFCIs are meant to protect you.

Lastly, where possible use low voltage DC equipment. While DC is still dangerous, many of our DC devices pose far less risk than their AC counterparts. This goes back to cheap China stuff though. Ensure the DC power supplies are properly isolated. Cheap converters with AC leakage are dangerous. So avoid the $10 wall warts and use reputable DC supplies (Meanwell for example).

Thank you for this! I'm setting up a new large tank now and want to get it right. Especially now that's I'm a new father, safety and fire prevention are my top priority.

Few questions.

What do you recommend for powering my apex powerbars 2X EB4 and 2x EB8? Can I plug them into 2 power strips (an EB8 and EB4 on one and the other two on the other) on the same outlet? Or even further and 2 power strips on two separate outlets? I can't plug the apex strips directly into the outlets themselves without a plethora of extension cords and my wife getting angry since I have 4 of them and there's only one outlet behind the tank. Next closest outlet is being used below for lighting.

I'm looking at the Tripp Lite commercial power strips (open to any suggestions for brands). They have a ton of different offerings. Do I need one of their surge strips or any other features that might be beneficial for this application? Or will this be more than enough (UL + 5-15):

AFCI question - I run an ATI 8X54w T5 + 3x75w LED Powermodule, would this cause it to trip? I'd like to install an AFCI breaker and GFCI outlets for this tank instead of the combo breaker, but would the AFCI even work with these lights? Side note, the lights will be on their own outlet (same breaker) just seperate outlet from everything else - well my canopy will be on this as well it raises and lowers using a standing desk powered setup.

GFCI, I see they make GFCI power strips too, any benefit to these over outlets (cost and installation not a concern).

My dad was an electrician a long time ago but has no knowledge of aquariums, so I'm looking to get as much information on my end and he'll do the work for me.

Thank you SO much for your thoughts and everyone else contributing to this thread.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Late to the conversation, but I am going to put my two cents in. Make sure you don't leave any of your electrical equipment on the floor. I had my tank's overflow container overflow onto the floor and short out my lights' power supply. If I had not had my tank plugged up to a GFCI outlet, it probably would have started a fire. Do yourself a favor and make drip loops for all of your wires, keep your equipment out of the floor and make sure everything you have is on a GFCI outlet. If something looks like it has gotten wet, flip a breaker and make sure you are grounded. Always better to air on the side of caution.

 

[zbrusko]

Unplug the heater. Lay it on the table. Set the meter to Ohms 0-100 or 0- 1000, or continuity check if the meter has that function. Make sure the probes are plugged into the continuity ports on the meter if there are multiple ports.

Touch one probe to the ground pin only of the plug. The other lead to the heater’s metal shell.

If reading Ohms, the reading should be close to 0. If reading continuity the meter will beep.

Post a photo of the meter if you need more help.

Here is my multimeter. I am guessing I should turn the dial to the 200 at the bottom?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Leave the probes in the spots that they are in.
Turn the dial to to the red setting at 5:30 that has the diode symbol (triangle with line) and speaker (sound) symbol.

Touch the probes together. You should hear a tone. The display will show 0 or (or close). This means continuity (an electrical connection).

Now do the same with the heater. Touch one probe to the center pin of the plug and the other to the heater's body. If you hear a tone, then there is a connection.

 

[Freenow54]

I would also caution folks that a GFCI is not foolproof.

I’ve gotten some small shocks off of plugs in a GFCI outlet when handling wet plugs. Big no no.

If all of the electricity coming out of the GFCI outlet goes back into it through the other side of the outlet, it won’t trip, even if it passes through you in the meanwhile.

Hopefully pass through you, unless you are grounded then will complete a circuit. Amperage is the killer and it takes a fraction of an Amp to do so. It will freeze you and you will just die a slow death

 

[Reefer Matt]

Hey all. Great post. Can someone chime in with the real story on these devices? I am not interested in the debate about stray voltage and inhabitants. I am much more concerned if this helps with HUMAN safety:

It is safe ONLY with a gfci or equivalent.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Hopefully pass through you, unless you are grounded then will complete a circuit.

You never want current to “pass through you”. Being “grounded” or “floating” does not change the danger, it just changes the possible current path.

Insulated shoes or not, sticking a 9v battery on your tongue creates a circuit across your tongue between the terminals, it tingles or is painful. Standing on concrete barefoot or with insulated shoes doesn’t change the current path. The battery is a floating reference, current can only flow between its terminals, unless the negative terminal is tied to ground.

Insulated shoes. Touching hot only, no current flows. Touch neutral with another part of the body and current flows and you get shocked.

If feet are not insulated, touching hot will shock you as current flows through you to ground.

Both are “complete” circuits.

I don’t want to delve any further into floating and bonded or isolated systems, as they are beyond the scope of a simple conversation and the bottom line here is general safety.