Aquarium Lids Question

BryanM

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Very brief question but it's a good idea to get a lid for my aquarium, right? Will it affect how I eventually configure my lights or can they run as normal? Is it possible to run a tank without a lid? I just don't want fish jumping out or dust getting in.
Any fish can jump so good advice is to have a lid.

Many of us do, many of us don't.

I haven't seen a lid lately that would affect light much at all.... Not really a concern in terms of performance. The real concern is getting a tight properly fitting lid, as the smallest of openings fish seem to find.
 

Freenow54

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7201759506251_.pic.jpg


7211759506252_.pic.jpg


this is how it looks on a waterbox cube 20 (the magnetic sticks around the rim is for other things and not needed for this lid). I got the frame custom cut for me from a Chinese platform called Taobao for ~25 usd incl shipping to Australia, but it took me days to net it lolll. It’s over 3.5 years old now and lost a right arm when i accidentally dropped it. It’s 5mm does bend a little bit over time lacking support in the middle. If you are considering something similar you might want a thicker material or rework the design a bit esp if you have a bigger tank. I have heard PC are less prone to bending but consulted a seller and he said it would still bend eventually under intense light so idk
Thanks definatly a starting point as I said since seeing what my Tang can do have to secure it better
Any fish can jump so good advice is to have a lid.

Many of us do, many of us don't.

I haven't seen a lid lately that would affect light much at all.... Not really a concern in terms of performance. The real concern is getting a tight properly fitting lid, as the smallest of openings fish seem to find.
I am a little different as I make my own. The Stainless mesh I used which I have stated cut light intensity by 25- 30%. I quit using glass lids because of the mineral build up they get which I call etching, which must have an effect. I have a collection of them stashed away so since they are manufactured I will get one out which is brand new and do a check. Someone pointed out that they clean theirs every day. I am sure that works but I am too lazy and believe in trying not to create more work for myself
 

RobupstateNY

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Very brief question but it's a good idea to get a lid for my aquarium, right? Will it affect how I eventually configure my lights or can they run as normal? Is it possible to run a tank without a lid? I just don't want fish jumping out or dust getting in.
Look into TOP LIDS
I just had them build me a beautiful Lid for my 170 reef
 

SteveMM62Reef

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The Problem with Acrylic is it sags. Unless you design the top so it can be flipped over and used, it will be a Problem. On my 120 Gallon, I Glued 1/2 Rectangular Glass on the Euro Brace, Made Bridges out of 1/2” thick Acrylic. I couldn’t design the bridges so they could be flipped, so I made an extra. When they sag I swap one and put weight on the sagging one, to slowly bend it back.
IMG_3405.png
IMG_3404.png
IMG_0288.jpeg
 
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rowenaad

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The Problem with Acrylic is it sags. Unless you design the top so it can be flipped over and used, it will be a Problem. On my 120 Gallon, I Glued 1/2 Rectangular Glass on the Euro Brace, Made Bridges out of 1/2” thick Acrylic. I couldn’t design the bridges so they could be flipped, so I made an extra. When they sag I swap one and put weight on the sagging one, to slowly bend it back.
IMG_3405.png
IMG_3404.png
IMG_0288.jpeg
mine sagged probably just 1 month in but interestingly, it didnt really get much worse since then for the next 3 years, but im about to try out PE material. I talked to a few more sellers and it seems to be a much better option than acrylic
 

Freenow54

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The Problem with Acrylic is it sags. Unless you design the top so it can be flipped over and used, it will be a Problem. On my 120 Gallon, I Glued 1/2 Rectangular Glass on the Euro Brace, Made Bridges out of 1/2” thick Acrylic. I couldn’t design the bridges so they could be flipped, so I made an extra. When they sag I swap one and put weight on the sagging one, to slowly bend it back.
IMG_3405.png
IMG_3404.png
IMG_0288.jpeg
Can you show it complete with mesh please? Also I am leery about sealants near the water ( salt breaking it down and introducing chemicals ) which is why I like what you are doing since my frames are painted metal. I have rust proof paint not tremclad real heavy duty stuff but don't want to use it for same reason
 

rowenaad

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polyethylene it is, the most trendy material for this purpose on that Chinese platform atm. but i just talked to the seller made my acrylic lid, he has switch to polystyrene or ps plastic which will not sag at all because its more brittle but will more likely to crack if dropped. i think ill give it a go
 

Freenow54

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Styrene is used in hobbies Train modellers use it to build structures and is made into many structural forms but in 1-87th scale usually maybe you can find O scale possibly large enough. Buying things specifically for Aquariums usually translates into nutty prices a lot like Tariffs😁
 

rowenaad

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Please let me know if you find a source. I will do the same.
That seller has quoted me 20 usd excl international shipping for a 8mm wb cube 20 base frame + a 5mm push/pull feeding window frame sitting on top of that base frame 😼 ill see how that goes. the only problem(?) is minimal hole diameter for this material is 3.2 mm so the finish mesh would be ~8mm if i wanna use fish line. otherwise i have to use that ugly and more light blocking mesh 🥴
 

SteveMM62Reef

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Can you show it complete with mesh please? Also I am leery about sealants near the water ( salt breaking it down and introducing chemicals ) which is why I like what you are doing since my frames are painted metal. I have rust proof paint not tremclad real heavy duty stuff but don't want to use it for same reason
The Blue Mesh is grid lines on my Drawing, I believe each is 1”. I glued the glass cubes with Silicone Aquarium Silicone, before I set it up. But I did another, for someone. We dropped the water level in the tank. Ran the wave makers. Set the sump pump too recirculating in the sump only. When the Silicone Skinned over good he refilled the tank, and resumed operation.

I cut the bridges on my table saw using Teflon Dry Lube on the blade at each cut. I polished the edges with 1200, then 2000 grit sandpaper. Finished it with 3M plastic polish. Glue Pieces of acrylic on the cross pieces so it couldn’t walk off the glass blocks. Glass from a local glass shop, hinges handles and back strips are Aqueon parts from Amazon.
 

Freenow54

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The Blue Mesh is grid lines on my Drawing, I believe each is 1”. I glued the glass cubes with Silicone Aquarium Silicone, before I set it up. But I did another, for someone. We dropped the water level in the tank. Ran the wave makers. Set the sump pump too recirculating in the sump only. When the Silicone Skinned over good he refilled the tank, and resumed operation.

I cut the bridges on my table saw using Teflon Dry Lube on the blade at each cut. I polished the edges with 1200, then 2000 grit sandpaper. Finished it with 3M plastic polish. Glue Pieces of acrylic on the cross pieces so it couldn’t walk off the glass blocks. Glass from a local glass shop, hinges handles and back strips are Aqueon parts from Amazon.
How stupid of me not to think of Aquarium grade silicone
 

Freenow54

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That seller has quoted me 20 usd excl international shipping for a 8mm wb cube 20 base frame + a 5mm push/pull feeding window frame sitting on top of that base frame 😼 ill see how that goes. the only problem(?) is minimal hole diameter for this material is 3.2 mm so the finish mesh would be ~8mm if i wanna use fish line. otherwise i have to use that ugly and more light blocking mesh
1000002270.jpg
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🥴
I found some on amazon and made a lid . Did a Par comparison tes with minimal loss from 17 20 inches deep to 162
1000002277.jpg
 

rowenaad

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I found some on amazon and made a lid . Did a Par comparison tes with minimal loss from 17 20 inches deep to 162
1000002277.jpg
i think you are right. i have used these before and not really noticing any difference in lighting but they just look super obvious and ugly to my eyes when put side to side lolll

7221759587861_.pic.jpg
 

Top_Lids

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@Frigideus

You may also try reaching out to Innovative Marine directly. They make very nice aluminum framed screens that come with many of their tanks. Usually their tanks come with one (we personally saw an Innovative 100 INT last month that was newly setup and it came with one of these tops). Picture attached of what it looked like.

Not sure 100% if the EXT's come with a screen like this, but can't hurt to ask them. They're very tight and come preassembled.
 

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Frigideus

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@Frigideus

You may also try reaching out to Innovative Marine directly. They make very nice aluminum framed screens that come with many of their tanks. Usually their tanks come with one (we personally saw an Innovative 100 INT last month that was newly setup and it came with one of these tops). Picture attached of what it looked like.

Not sure 100% if the EXT's come with a screen like this, but can't hurt to ask them. They're very tight and come preassembled.
This is super helpful, I'll need to ask them, thanks! I just need to make sure they can be cut so my light fixtures can fit on!
 

Top_Lids

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This is super helpful, I'll need to ask them, thanks! I just need to make sure they can be cut so my light fixtures can fit on!
Absolutely, to be transparent I know for a fact IM can't put in light locations for you. Since they already come preassembled and prescreened it would probably be a bit difficult to cut slots out for them and keep the screen in tact. Not impossible though. May take a couple dabs of glue on the underside of where the screen goes to keep everything tightly bound (but keep in mind if you glue it then changing the screen out if you ever needed to would be next to impossible).

Another roadblock to this solution would be that I don't believe IM has the corner pieces available you'd need to make the cutouts you'd need. Perhaps the ones from either Red Sea or Waterbox would work for them. Some measuring would probably be needed to verify if the corners would work would be doable in this case would be best.

Again, while it's not the perfect easy solution, it's worth a shot 👍
 

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