Arctica chiller fuse keeps blowing

[CJreef]

Every year during very hot weather and the chiller runs a lot, it blows a fuse several times a summer. I usually have no problem after replacing it.

This year, same thing happened three times in a relatively short time. It has been an unusually hot period, though. I noticed that there seemed to be two little balls of metal fused to the used fuse. The metal does not seem to come from the fuse itself. I am concerned I could lose my chiller at the worst time of the year. Some feedback would be very much appreciated.

My chiller is a DBE200 1/4HP in line Arctica and has been running like a champ for 17 years and still does when I change the fuse but only for a few days.

 

[WVNed]

There is nothing you can do for a piece of refrigeration equipment without specialized tools. Blowing fuses means it is drawing too many amps.
Not sure what you want us to say.
Perhaps a local heating and cooling or refrigeration company would look at it.

Or you will have to replace it.

 

[acro-ed]

I was experiencing a similar thing with my 1/3 Arctica this year. I had replaced the fuse a few times over the past year and they kept blowing more and more frequently.

I ended up replacing the compressor start relay and the capacitor (both parts available at an AC/appliance supply store or online) and now it works flawlessly again.

I do believe it was the failing start relay that was blowing the fuses. I'm fairly well versed in electrical repair (had a former job dealing with electrical, though not licensed) so I advise you truly understand what you are taking apart and ensure the power is fully disconnected before you touch anything. Improper handling of an unplugged but charged capacitor can also electrocute you, so please be careful and this is all at your own risk.

Hope this helps,
Ed

 

[seanjournot]

I obtained a dead DBA-75 (1/10 HP model) for free and have it torn apart right now for trouble shooting. This unit has a dead fan; the coil looks like it shorted out and overheated. After looking through samsung's compressor catalog it looks like whoever designed this unit decided to cheap out and leave off a capacitor which should be connected to the start relay on the compressor. I believe that is why these units constantly blow fuses. Mine blows it's 10A fuse every time I turn it on (with the bad fan removed) and I am going to try and bypass the controller and fuse tomorrow to see if the compressor will kick on (the three minute delay is also infuriating when trying to trouble shoot these things). I'm having a hard time believing these are selling for $600; these are extremely cheaply and poorly made chillers. If I can get this units compressor functioning I will likely replace the controller with an actual temperature controller and upgrade the fan with a better motor.

 

[seanjournot]

I obtained a dead DBA-75 (1/10 HP model) for free and have it torn apart right now for trouble shooting. This unit has a dead fan; the coil looks like it shorted out and overheated. After looking through samsung's compressor catalog it looks like whoever designed this unit decided to cheap out and leave off a capacitor which should be connected to the start relay on the compressor. I believe that is why these units constantly blow fuses. Mine blows it's 10A fuse every time I turn it on (with the bad fan removed) and I am going to try and bypass the controller and fuse tomorrow to see if the compressor will kick on (the three minute delay is also infuriating when trying to trouble shoot these things). I'm having a hard time believing these are selling for $600; these are extremely cheaply and poorly made chillers. If I can get this units compressor functioning I will likely replace the controller with an actual temperature controller and upgrade the fan with a better motor.

 

[Aquakingdom]

I was experiencing a similar thing with my 1/3 Arctica this year. I had replaced the fuse a few times over the past year and they kept blowing more and more frequently.

I ended up replacing the compressor start relay and the capacitor (both parts available at an AC/appliance supply store or online) and now it works flawlessly again.

I do believe it was the failing start relay that was blowing the fuses. I'm fairly well versed in electrical repair (had a former job dealing with electrical, though not licensed) so I advise you truly understand what you are taking apart and ensure the power is fully disconnected before you touch anything. Improper handling of an unplugged but charged capacitor can also electrocute you, so please be careful and this is all at your own risk.

Hope this helps,
Ed

I was experiencing a similar thing with my 1/3 Arctica this year. I had replaced the fuse a few times over the past year and they kept blowing more and more frequently.

I ended up replacing the compressor start relay and the capacitor (both parts available at an AC/appliance supply store or online) and now it works flawlessly again.

I do believe it was the failing start relay that was blowing the fuses. I'm fairly well versed in electrical repair (had a former job dealing with electrical, though not licensed) so I advise you truly understand what you are taking apart and ensure the power is fully disconnected before you touch anything. Improper handling of an unplugged but charged capacitor can also electrocute you, so please be careful and this is all at your own risk.

Hope this helps,
Ed

Hello Ed,
Would you please share the two parts you ordered?

 

[acro-ed]

I don’t have a part number handy because this was a couple years ago, but for the start relay you just need the same pin arrangement and a comparable ohm rating; brand doesn’t matter. Likewise, for the run capacitor you just need same voltage rating and comparable uF rating and it will work. Again, this is all at your own risk. If you have tried replacing the fuse and it keeps blowing it may be one of these parts causing it.

I don’t use my chillers anymore but still have a couple of them. If you’re really in a bind and are unsure I can open it up and get you an actual pic or part number.

 

[Aquakingdom]

Hello Ed,
Thanks for your response sir. If you don’t mind, would you please send me the pictures of the parts number. Thanks for your help!

 

[acro-ed]

Here is what I found digging through my old fish stuff. This bag was marked “1/3 hp” so I believe these parts were extras for that model, but keep in mind I’ve had various 1/4, 1/3, 1/2 over the years and I didn’t kee the best track of this so you’ll need to check whatever you order and compare to existing parts.

Best of luck troubleshooting your issue!
-Ed

 

[Aquakingdom]

Hello Ed,
I really appreciate you take the time to locate those parts.
I took the chiller cover apart and check the starter relay with the ohm’s meter, it didn’t register so I open the case and noticed it burned.
I search online to see anything match the part id but unable to locate single pin coil relay yet. I’ll continue to research.

Thanks again,
Minh