Wouldn't hermits help with cleaning?You can, it might help. I did it, but there is something about a shell that is swaying back and forth that hermit crabs love...
You need snails, but do you NEED hermit crabs?
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Wouldn't hermits help with cleaning?You can, it might help. I did it, but there is something about a shell that is swaying back and forth that hermit crabs love...
You need snails, but do you NEED hermit crabs?
They do, but at a potential cost. It is not really THAT big of a deal, just my preference to not have to constantly buy new snails.Wouldn't hermits help with cleaning?
Ok, wont do hermits just yet.They do, but at a potential cost. It is not really THAT big of a deal, just my preference to not have to constantly buy new snails.
Some are more herbivorous - especially some of the small species. I have at least 20 + of at least 4 species of hermits and also the same amount of different snail. Every half a year or so - I buy a lot of around 10 of different species (hermits and snails).They are opportunistic so will kill a snail if the snail looks helpless.
Kudoes to this post. It addresses reef husbandry and why using dry sand & rock with bottled bacteria contributes to the uglies.To address the OP's original question... No, there is not a way to avoid the uglies when establishing the tank using the method you chose. Diatoms will be the first of many pests you will need to manage. Adding cleanup crew members that help control the particular ugly pest haunting your tank can help. But really, you are the best cleanup crew. Get yourself a turkey baster, some bottle brushes, a denture toothbrush, and maybe a round brush used for dishes and blow/scrub away your problems repeatedly until they fail to return. Try not to start adding products that claim to eliminate one pest or another. They seldom work.
There is a lot of different hermits to get - I agree that the blue leggs is not the best - they are rather aggressive.
Its true that some hermits try to eat snails - however - they are not primary after the shell - they are after their flesh - but it is also true that healthy snails has a very effective defence against hermit attacks. They simply close the door. IME - hermits only succeed to attack snails that are dying or in bad condition. They just does their job - cleaning up.
Algae eating snails and algae eating hermits prefer different type of algae, hence its important to have both types of organisms. Urchins are also a good members in the clean up team.
Some are more herbivorous - especially some of the small species. I have at least 20 + of at least 4 species of hermits and also the same amount of different snail. Every half a year or so - I buy a lot of around 10 of different species (hermits and snails).
These and my urchins is my most important inhabitants. Without them - the system will sooner or later crash.
Sincerely Lasse
Yeah, Duluth must be rough, 4 hrs to the nearest fish store.I always seem to end up with one so now I just keep one per tank to enjoy.
No LFS here so my goal is to always have snails live lonnnnng time if I can or have those that naturally reproduce in our tanks. Don’t want to pay $40-$65 to replenish snails.
Surprised you would say it would crash. Some don’t run/use much cuc but then again there are other methods I suppose like fish and what not.
My tank its +8 years old and it have not crash yet and my maintenance is absolute minimum work from me - my animals do that for me instead.Without them - the system will sooner or later crash.
Not in my tank. It's all inclusive euphoriaI don't do Hermit crabs. If it's got claws, it breaks laws. They are snail killers.
Especially don't mix a red and a blue. That will be a fight for sure.
Do I need to buy a kit for all of those? I have nitrate already and will get a phosphate one.No, don’t bother testing silicates. It’s not something normally done.
For corals:
Alk
Ca
Mg
PO4
Nitrate
Of your list, the only two snails that eat algae are the turbo and trochus. I would not bother with bumblebee snails unless you have a specific reason to add them.
As a Laissez Faire I agree, if I didn’t have janitors, my systems would not look NICE.My tank its +8 years old and it have not crash yet and my maintenance is absolute minimum work from me - my animals do that for me instead.
Sincerely Lasse
Do I need to buy a kit for all of those? I have nitrate already and will get a phosphate one.
Yeah, Duluth must be rough, 4 hrs to the nearest fish store.
Ok, Is a salifert one good?hanna ulr phosphorus checker is the one most use
some of the kits (like API phosphate) are not very useful
I think you could use the search here for test kits, but there is definitely a preference for hannah for some, and salifert for others.Ok, Is a salifert one good?
Ok, Is a salifert one good?
Any other kits you recommend? Hannah is a bit pricey so not really willing to buy that just yet.can be hard to read the color chart is all but otherwise it's fine. I started my journey with salifert as I know hannah is a bit spendy.
Some people said that API phosphate is pretty good. Is that true?hanna ulr phosphorus checker is the one most use
some of the kits (like API phosphate) are not very useful