Battling Red/Brown Algae - 180 Gallon Tank

Jessi_TX

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Hi all,
I know this seems to be a recurring topic but I could use some guidance on how to address the source of red/brown (believe it's hair algae) with specific nutrients.

Went on a 10 day vacation knowing when I came back it would be bad, but didn't think it would be this bad. I keep my salinity 1.026/7 and temp around 78-80ºF. The tank is about 6 months old and every time I've gotten an algae bloom the LFS and most forums say to let it run it's course since it's "new" and try to increase my flow. I've added a couple of smaller power heads in addition to the Jaebo 150s I have. They are set at 50 each. I do have a protein skimmer sock filters. I am back in the hobby after a 10 year hiatus due to a move, and boy how things have changed! I don't make my own saltwater yet because I need to get filters and re-set up my RODI system. So I buy RODI and pre-mixed salter water from the LFS. Oddly enough, this seemed to get worse after a small water change I did a few weeks back.

Here are my test parameters as of today.
IMG_2309.jpg
IMG_2310.jpg

Here's what the tank looked like a few weeks ago.
IMG_1095.jpg


Here's what it looks like today.

IMG_2311.jpg
IMG_2312.jpg


Not sure what else I need to test but these are the only things I monitor. In my reading, I am seeing I also need to monitor Calcium and a few other things?
My thoughts are to try to clean and kill it using chemi-clean and then try to dose the proper nutrients moving forward. Would appreciate any suggestions!
Now that I'm looking at these pictures, seems my tank is getting a bit better flow on the right side so maybe I just need to increase my wavemakers?
The only corals that seem bothered are the bubbles.
IMG_2313.jpg
IMG_2314.jpg
 

Rick's Reviews

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Yes, started in March of this year. Is this just part of the continued ugly phase in new tanks?
Yes unfortunately it is ugly phase however it's at a stage than you can easily manage as it's (algae) is still relatively light as such (easy to remove new growth)
If you can dedicate a few hours daily or weekly you can get it looking crystal clear again.
(Clean from top first then bottom/ sand bed last)
I would start by cleaning all glass first, then work on aquascape/rock, you can do this in sections over a period of days/weeks.
work on one section of rock with a 'hard toothbrush' remove as much algae as possible, using fingers to pinch grab any large floaty bits (this will help your filter)
The sand bed should be easy as this algae is generally loose so blow it with a turkey baster and remove with fingers.
I always work from the furthest point of my filters, my main filter is on right of my aquriam so I start left. Clean out filters after each cleaning stage
Then just repeat onwards
I hopes this helps
 

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Jessi_TX

Jessi_TX

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Yes unfortunately it is ugly phase however it's at a stage than you can easily manage as it's (algae) is still relatively light as such (easy to remove new growth)
If you can dedicate a few hours daily or weekly you can get it looking crystal clear again.
(Clean from top first then bottom/ sand bed last)
I would start by cleaning all glass first, then work on aquascape/rock, you can do this in sections over a period of days/weeks.
work on one section of rock with a 'hard toothbrush' remove as much algae as possible, using fingers to pinch grab any large floaty bits (this will help your filter)
The sand bed should be easy as this algae is generally loose so blow it with a turkey baster and remove with fingers.
I always work from the furthest point of my filters, my main filter is on right of my aquriam so I start left. Clean out filters after each cleaning stage
Then just repeat onwards
I hopes this helps
This helps a TON, thank you so much!!
 

APCoralReefs

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Yes unfortunately it is ugly phase however it's at a stage than you can easily manage as it's (algae) is still relatively light as such (easy to remove new growth)
If you can dedicate a few hours daily or weekly you can get it looking crystal clear again.
(Clean from top first then bottom/ sand bed last)
I would start by cleaning all glass first, then work on aquascape/rock, you can do this in sections over a period of days/weeks.
work on one section of rock with a 'hard toothbrush' remove as much algae as possible, using fingers to pinch grab any large floaty bits (this will help your filter)
The sand bed should be easy as this algae is generally loose so blow it with a turkey baster and remove with fingers.
I always work from the furthest point of my filters, my main filter is on right of my aquriam so I start left. Clean out filters after each cleaning stage
Then just repeat onwards
I hopes this helps
I agree with this
 

vetteguy53081

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Hi all,
I know this seems to be a recurring topic but I could use some guidance on how to address the source of red/brown (believe it's hair algae) with specific nutrients.

Went on a 10 day vacation knowing when I came back it would be bad, but didn't think it would be this bad. I keep my salinity 1.026/7 and temp around 78-80ºF. The tank is about 6 months old and every time I've gotten an algae bloom the LFS and most forums say to let it run it's course since it's "new" and try to increase my flow. I've added a couple of smaller power heads in addition to the Jaebo 150s I have. They are set at 50 each. I do have a protein skimmer sock filters. I am back in the hobby after a 10 year hiatus due to a move, and boy how things have changed! I don't make my own saltwater yet because I need to get filters and re-set up my RODI system. So I buy RODI and pre-mixed salter water from the LFS. Oddly enough, this seemed to get worse after a small water change I did a few weeks back.

Here are my test parameters as of today.
IMG_2309.jpg
IMG_2310.jpg

Here's what the tank looked like a few weeks ago.
IMG_1095.jpg


Here's what it looks like today.

IMG_2311.jpg
IMG_2312.jpg


Not sure what else I need to test but these are the only things I monitor. In my reading, I am seeing I also need to monitor Calcium and a few other things?
My thoughts are to try to clean and kill it using chemi-clean and then try to dose the proper nutrients moving forward. Would appreciate any suggestions!
Now that I'm looking at these pictures, seems my tank is getting a bit better flow on the right side so maybe I just need to increase my wavemakers?
The only corals that seem bothered are the bubbles.
IMG_2313.jpg
IMG_2314.jpg
Last 2 pics appear to be dino and your test readings dont coincide with what you have. While microscope images are the best verification, substance on rocks are likely. No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
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Jessi_TX

Jessi_TX

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Last 2 pics appear to be dino and your test readings dont coincide with what you have. While microscope images are the best verification, substance on rocks are likely. No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
Thank you!
 

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