Beginners Guide to Acclimation and Quarantine

[Brew12]

Sorry I didn't see the part about them not being able to reproduce. This is the first time I've heard that and I always wondered what the difference was between 14 days and transfer fish or 30 days and remove copper. I've been doing 30 days and removing copper but I have OCD and am constantly staring at my fish waiting for a spot to appear! Lol Thanks for the clarification. Where did you get this information?

I found it in a scientific study but unfortunately, I don't have the details. I had saved it into a folder on my laptop right before it died and the files weren't recoverable. I've never been able to find it again. Not knowing those details is one reason I am a huge fan of treating for 10 to 14 days with a transfer.

 

[NoobReeefer]

Sorry I didn't see the part about them not being able to reproduce. This is the first time I've heard that and I always wondered what the difference was between 14 days and transfer fish or 30 days and remove copper. I've been doing 30 days and removing copper but I have OCD and am constantly staring at my fish waiting for a spot to appear! Lol Thanks for the clarification. Where did you get this information?

reef central has a good sticky on the life cycle of ick, that's where it starts, you really need to understand it to really understand why your doing what your doing but other than that just reading here. there are 4-5 guys here that really know their stuff when it comes to QT i just take what they say to the bank and hope they are right lol

 

[Brew12]

reef central has a good sticky on the life cycle of ick, that's where it starts, you really need to understand it to really understand why your doing what your doing but other than that just reading here. there are 4-5 guys here that really know their stuff when it comes to QT i just take what they say to the bank and hope they are right lol

It's always good to know your enemy! This is great simple paper on Crypto for those wanting to learn more.

 

[Snyder1456]

Yes everything important, actually everything period, I've learned from you guys here on R2R. I've been reading and searching and re-reading so much in the past year that my kids and dog would tell you I neglect them! I would have made so many MORE mistakes without you guys.

 

[CaptainsReef]

Regarding amonia

I have my badge in place and I'm dozing (prophylacticly) with copper. This morning the badge showed amonia. You said that most test kits won't work with copper, how do you recommended testing for amonia? I like to do a quick check again after a water change to be sure it's where it should be.

 

[Brew12]

Regarding amonia

I have my badge in place and I'm dozing (prophylacticly) with copper. This morning the badge showed amonia. You said that most test kits won't work with copper, how do you recommended testing for amonia? I like to do a quick check again after a water change to be sure it's where it should be.

The badge should change back to not showing ammonia fairly quickly after the change. There isn't a good way to tests it for an immediate result that I am aware of. Well, the Seneye can monitor it accurately, but if you had one I'm guessing you wouldn't be using the alert badge.

 

[mssexyshrimp]

This is all very helpful! Thank you for sharing!

 

[CaptainsReef]

I did a 50% water change last night and the badge didn't change. Do they stop working after they dry out? This is the same one I used the last time I quarantined fish which was last October. I have a new badge arriving in the mail today.

I also did a test with my regular test kit and the ammonia showed 0.25 there. I'm sure there is probably still some copper in the tank, as I dosed copper when I first put the fish in. I also have a copper test kit arriving in the mail today.

Is it possible both the badge and the test kit are failing? Does it make sense to still have ammonia after doing a 50% water change?

FYI, it is a 30 gallon tank with 4 fish in it.

 

[Brew12]

I did a 50% water change last night and the badge didn't change. Do they stop working after they dry out? This is the same one I used the last time I quarantined fish which was last October. I have a new badge arriving in the mail today.

I also did a test with my regular test kit and the ammonia showed 0.25 there. I'm sure there is probably still some copper in the tank, as I dosed copper when I first put the fish in. I also have a copper test kit arriving in the mail today.

Is it possible both the badge and the test kit are failing? Does it make sense to still have ammonia after doing a 50% water change?

FYI, it is a 30 gallon tank with 4 fish in it.

I guess anything is possible.

Are you shining a light on the back of the badge to read it?

 

[CaptainsReef]

I guess anything is possible.

Are you shining a light on the back of the badge to read it?

No, should I be?

 

[Brew12]

No, should I be?

Yes, it's best to read it while shining a light on the back unless you have a very well lit QT.

 

[OutsideBrian]

I was thinking about getting a small Aio for a quarantine tank. My thought is to just keep it running, water sand and some rock do it’s ready if and when I need it. Maybe just keep a few snails or crabs in it? Any thoughts on it being s good idea or not, recommendations?

 

[Brew12]

I was thinking about getting a small Aio for a quarantine tank. My thought is to just keep it running, water sand and some rock do it’s ready if and when I need it. Maybe just keep a few snails or crabs in it? Any thoughts on it being s good idea or not, recommendations?

The problem with keeping snails and crabs in it is that you can't treat with copper. If you are thinking about doing it as a QT tank for inverts and corals instead of fish, it could be a great idea.

 

[OutsideBrian]

The problem with keeping snails and crabs in it is that you can't treat with copper. If you are thinking about doing it as a QT tank for inverts and corals instead of fish, it could be a great idea.

Could I move the inverts to the display and back if I needed to treat a fish with copper?
I was just thinking I didn’t want a tank with no “life” in it maybe just leave a rock covered in gsp that I can move between tanks if needed?

 

[Brew12]

Could I move the inverts to the display and back if I needed to treat a fish with copper?
I was just thinking I didn’t want a tank with no “life” in it maybe just leave a rock covered in gsp that I can move between tanks if needed?

You could if you moved them over before adding fish to the QT. The risk would be if you added a fish with velvet or ich, and the parasite encysted on the rock or invert shell prior to you moving them. You would then introduce the parasite into your DT.

 

[CaptainsReef]

For those who use a sponge bubbler in their QT, do you clean it while your fish are in there? I have 3 fish in a 30g QT and the sponge is looking pretty gross at just 10 days.

I've been rinsing the bio-media in the HOB filter only.

 

[Brew12]

For those who use a sponge bubbler in their QT, do you clean it while your fish are in there? I have 3 fish in a 30g QT and the sponge is looking pretty gross at just 10 days.

I've been rinsing the bio-media in the HOB filter only.

You can clean it. Rinse it under room temperature(ish) tap water to get the crud off it and put it back. As long as your tap water isn't heavily chlorinated the bacteria will be fine. Otherwise, get a small bucket of DI water and wring/rinse it out in there.

 

[Lebreton33]

Quick question: if my DT is a 300 fowlr do I need a quarantine tank or can I just treat the DT of an issue arises? Thanks!

 

[Brew12]

Quick question: if my DT is a 300 fowlr do I need a quarantine tank or can I just treat the DT of an issue arises? Thanks!

I guess that depends on how much you plan on spending on medications. A single treatment of an antibiotic could cost $100+ and may need to be repeated multiple times.
Copper would be less of a concern as far as cost goes but might be impacted by your fish selection. Some fish are very sensitive to copper and shouldn't be treated with it. If you mix copper sensitive fish with fish that aren't tolerant to CP you may not have any good treatment options.

 

[Lebreton33]

I guess that depends on how much you plan on spending on medications. A single treatment of an antibiotic could cost $100+ and may need to be repeated multiple times.
Copper would be less of a concern as far as cost goes but might be impacted by your fish selection. Some fish are very sensitive to copper and shouldn't be treated with it. If you mix copper sensitive fish with fish that aren't tolerant to CP you may not have any good treatment options.

So it can be done but would be more expensive? I’ve got a 300 gallon tank I’m getting ready to stock. Wrasses, angels, triggers and tangs, all fairly peaceful. I have a 46 gallon quarantine tank but was wondering if I need to use it. The drawback as I see it is that unless I’m buying fish in groups it’s going to take me years to stock my 300. Buy a fish, wait 60 days. Buy another fish, wait 60 days. What’s the best way to build stock in a FOWLR DT safely but efficiently (more fun!)? Is there simply little way around the 60 day rule if I want to ensure the tank stays disease free? Thanks again R2R fam