Blue star leopard ...where from?

4FordFamily · Jan 11, 2016

dewboy1127 said:
It says as bath in bold print then gives direction for 5-7 treatment so guess taking week long bath /treatment

I think it is in a different area of the bottle altogether or something because I remember needing to look around for it

dewboy1127 · Jan 11, 2016

4FordFamily said:
I think it is in a different area of the bottle altogether or something because I remember needing to look around for it

I got the smaller bottle of it perhaps its not on the smaller ones for some reason?..maybe will try looking on website or e-mail them to see ....as for now she is still eating when i put food in the cage debating on when would be best to go ahead and let her out into tank all her tank mates have spent enough time checkin each other out so hopefully there will be no scaring issues and she stays out roaming the box all day and lays beside wedging her head h nder pvc at night lol

cnseekatz · Jan 11, 2016

Great thread, very interesting. I'm going to go look at a Chaoti Wrasse today, and I've been doing some research. I've had pretty good success with leopards in the past. I have successfully introduced a meleagris, two bipartitus, a geoffroy, and an ornatus. I've always just let them go directly into the display without QT or acclimation boxing. Recently, I've been having some issues with my Potter's leopard being aggressive toward the others. Given how expensive the Chaoti is, I'm think an acclimation box might be in order.

Your bipartitus looks really cozy in the box, so I think I'll give that a try.

This is an older article, but addresses some thoughts that have been mentioned in this thread. I think the "piscine jet-lag" concept is very interesting.

https://reefbuilders.com/2013/02/02/australian-leopardwrasse-quarantine-technique/

dewboy1127 · Jan 11, 2016

cnseekatz said:
Great thread, very interesting. I'm going to go look at a Chaoti Wrasse today, and I've been doing some research. I've had pretty good success with leopards in the past. I have successfully introduced a meleagris, two bipartitus, a geoffroy, and an ornatus. I've always just let them go directly into the display without QT or acclimation boxing. Recently, I've been having some issues with my Potter's leopard being aggressive toward the others. Given how expensive the Chaoti is, I'm think an acclimation box might be in order.

Your bipartitus looks really cozy in the box, so I think I'll give that a try.

This is an older article, but addresses some thoughts that have been mentioned in this thread. I think the "piscine jet-lag" concept is very interesting.

https://reefbuilders.com/2013/02/02/australian-leopardwrasse-quarantine-technique/

Very jealous the chaoti is a beautiful specimen and would love to have one one day or three lol....best of luck to you i hope it is a very strong and healthy specimen...as of now my bipartitus is doing ok in acclimation box she is still eating frozen tried pellets but no luck yet will probably be releasing her today as she been in there since friday and think she is comfortable enough and eating to release to dt and start prazi treatment but still debating any thoughts would be appreciated

dewboy1127 · Jan 11, 2016

cnseekatz said:
Great thread, very interesting. I'm going to go look at a Chaoti Wrasse today, and I've been doing some research. I've had pretty good success with leopards in the past. I have successfully introduced a meleagris, two bipartitus, a geoffroy, and an ornatus. I've always just let them go directly into the display without QT or acclimation boxing. Recently, I've been having some issues with my Potter's leopard being aggressive toward the others. Given how expensive the Chaoti is, I'm think an acclimation box might be in order.

Your bipartitus looks really cozy in the box, so I think I'll give that a try.

This is an older article, but addresses some thoughts that have been mentioned in this thread. I think the "piscine jet-lag" concept is very interesting.

https://reefbuilders.com/2013/02/02/australian-leopardwrasse-quarantine-technique/

Thanks for posting the article i read and makes me feel better about keeping her in the cage for longer success

evolved · Jan 11, 2016

Personally, I'd go ahead and let her out at this point, wait a day and ensure she's still eating, then start prazi.

dewboy1127 · Jan 11, 2016

Thanks @evolved was hoping one you would give personal opinion on what to do here cause i was unsure..should i release her during daylight hours or wait till lights go out or should i let her out in morning just before lights come on???..also should i put her in dt or just open lid on box and wait for her to find her way out on her own will??

evolved · Jan 11, 2016

In the case, I would do it during the daylight period. I like the take the lid off and tilt the box onto its side, and then let them swim out on their own.

dewboy1127 · Jan 11, 2016

evolved said:
In the case, I would do it during the daylight period. I like the take the lid off and tilt the box onto its side, and then let them swim out on their own.

Ok well at work now off at 4 i will feed her again and then release into dt ...lights are out @7 is this enough daylight time or should i wait till next morning

evolved · Jan 11, 2016

Sounds fine.

dewboy1127 · Jan 11, 2016

Released her into the dt ...she swam near sand for min over to end of tank where mt 3 welso are and thats what my clown fish host they twitch at her a lil bit but she went under the sand beneath welsos within min of being let out

dewboy1127 · Jan 12, 2016

Update she styed under sand lastnight and was up around 11ish few hrs after lights come on...she has been out n about ever since and did eat a lil food (blackworm)...when i get home i will try flooding tank with frozen food for her to have good chance ay getting some...i think i will wait till about friday to start prazi treatment and ensure she is still eating...will yhe treatment lessen her appetite?

evolved · Jan 12, 2016

It can.

dewboy1127 · Jan 12, 2016

evolved said:
It can.

Ok i noticed prazi bottle says to do a water change before treatment is this necessary and do know why would have to before hand???...i planned on doing a decent one after but didnt know had before as well...will a 5day treatment be suffice or should go for 7??

evolved · Jan 12, 2016

dewboy1127 said:
says to do a water change before treatment is this necessary

Not necessary if you are confident there is zero ammonia.

dewboy1127 · Jan 12, 2016

evolved said:
Not necessary if you are confident there is zero ammonia.

Tank has been up and goin 3yrs now and i only have two clowns,bangai cardinal,target mandarin and one small chromis other than the bipartitus i just introduced...so im gonna say there no ammonia in tank been growing sps/lps whole time i would imagine been affected by an ammonia level

dewboy1127 · Jan 12, 2016

Updating since i got home now apparently right before i walked in the door she was out and had been out most all day since @11 my other half said and ate black worm today is all that was seen ....so out from @11-4 today will hopefully start to be longer over next few days i will keep posted

dewboy1127 · Jan 14, 2016

Update again....yesterday she was out when my other half got home @11 am and remained out until right before i walked in door again last night around 4:30 so seems her sched was 11-4 first day or so and she ate frozen pe mysis and live food couple times yesterday ...as of today i swung by house this morning around 8:30am and she was already up and about i fes frozen and live foods and she ate well ...she fed again around 12 by my wife and i am going to have her feed her around 4 in hopes to encourage her to stay up longer until im home and lights are out

dewboy1127 · Jan 14, 2016

I will probably start prazi treatment this weekend so i can observe her and when week up for treatment it will be weekend again and ican perform a water change...how large of water change should i do after treatment ?