UV sterilizer plumbing

  • Thread starter Thread starter DmitryB
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I'm making a list of connections I will need. Let me know what I may be missing. (I don't know yet the qua Tory of each, but at least I want to get a good idea of what I need to get.)

- 90 bends
- 45 bends
- bushings 2" to 1"
- bushings 1" to 3/4"
- T fittings (with valves to shut off/redirect flow if I want to have an alternate path to send water into tank without sterilizer?)
- unions 1" and 3/4"
- 2" PVC
- 1" PVC
- 3/4" PVC
- 3/4" flexible PVC
 
Oh looking at the MightyJet XL, it has barbed fittings for 3/4, 1 and 1.25". So what if they go out of the pump at the higher 1.25 and only switch to 3/4 at the very end before going into the last flexible hose going into the tank? So the whole pathway from pump - through the sterilizer - and out stays at 1.25 and 2". (2" being the sterilizer fittings.) maybe remove 1" PVC out of the equation altogether?
 
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Oh looking at the MightyJet XL, it has barbed fittings for 3/4, 1 and 1.25". So what if they go out of the pump at the higher 1.5 and only switch to 3/4 at the very end before going into the last flexible hose going into the tank? So the whole pathway from pump - through the sterilizer - and out stays at 1.25 and 2". (2" being the sterilizer fittings.) maybe remove 1" PVC out of the equation altogether?
You can do it this way, but you’re still stuck with the 3/4” plumbing going through the tank bottom, meaning it would be much more expensive parts for the same flow result!

1” rigid plumbing with 1.25” tubing will flow more than that particular 3/4” bulkhead can take, so there’s no reason to go bigger on plumbing diameter unless you’re specifically running a manifold off the return pump plumbing as well! (The 2” plumbing on this sterilizer is for the likes of a multi-thousand thousand gallon pond!)
 
I think it's important to remember that flow through an orifice at a given pressure is not the same as the head pressure produced by that flow rate going through the orifice. The former looks more restrictive, but it's not what we're talking about in this situation.

I also think it's important to mention that an orifice just refers to the opening it goes through, but not a length of pipe. A length of pipe will produce more friction because friction is accumulated over a larger surface area.

I could not test exactly what you requested in the span of time I had, but I used what I had. It was a reservoir of RO water, with a magnetic drive pump attached (Iwaki WMD40-RLT), and the outlet was at about the same level as the water in the reservoir. The pump is capable of producing 9.3 PSI and the max flow rate is 14 gpm. I didn't have 3/4" plumbing on it though. I had 2-3 feet of 1" PVC (with a 90, three 45's, and a tee fitting), connected to a 3/4" GHT fitting, connected to 8' of 5/8" ID (0.625") garden hose. This is more-restrictive than 3/4". Human error is involved when eyeballing the 5 gallon mark on a bucket, but it took 24 seconds to fill by my eye. This is a flow rate of 12.5 gpm. This diameter is between those listed on your chart, but close to the range you have for 1/2". So based on your chart I should get closer to 7 gpm than 11 gpm, but I got more than either. It concurs with the head loss calculator I linked though.

Or, you could reference one of the very frictional loss charts you’ve mentioned (which are also themselves intended for large runs of higher pressure plumbing!)

Note that the 3/4” category physically ends, even at much higher water pressures that any residential aquarium pump produces, before the 34GPM the calculator you presented claims 3/4” plumbing can achieve at <6PSI…

Yes, I would not recommend 100' of 3/4" pipe as per those frictional loss charts. Shorter lengths produce less head pressure though, so if it isn't suitable for 100' it doesn't mean that it isn't usable for, say, an orifice. I don't know of any residential aquariums with a 100' run of pipe either.

If you were to use an aquarium pump, which as you mentioned produces lower pressures than the chart shows, it doesn't mean it won't pump anything through 100' of 3/4" pipe. It will pump less water than 34 gpm, which means it will not experience the same pressure. Once the pressure and flow rates of the chart match the same pressure and flow on the performance curve of a pump, that's how you can expect it to perform with 100' of 3/4" pipe.

I sized pumps and associated equipment (e.g. filters, chillers, UV sterilizers, etc.) at work for a few years, with max flow rates from 1-2000 gpm. I would have known long ago if my methods were incorrect. I feel pretty confident that your chart is either incorrect, or we're missing something about it.

I think the suction side of the pump is just one of the potential situations they're listing in the green category. It would be weird for them to display two columns of suction info and four columns of discharge info. It might just be that they're acknowledging you can't have a suction pressure above about 15 PSI due to physics/cavitation.

Okay, I played ball and now I'm passing it to you. Try your own flow measurements at home and compare them to your chart! You might also find that they are different.
 
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Oh looking at the MightyJet XL, it has barbed fittings for 3/4, 1 and 1.25". So what if they go out of the pump at the higher 1.5 and only switch to 3/4 at the very end before going into the last flexible hose going into the tank? So the whole pathway from pump - through the sterilizer - and out stays at 1.25 and 2". (2" being the sterilizer fittings.) maybe remove 1" PVC out of the equation altogether?
You can do it this way, but you’re still stuck with the 3/4” plumbing going through the tank bottom, meaning it would be much more expensive parts for the same flow result!

1” rigid plumbing with 1.25” tubing will flow more than that particular 3/4” bulkhead can take, so there’s no reason to go bigger on plumbing diameter unless you’re specifically running a manifold off the return pump plumbing as well! (The 2” plumbing on this sterilizer is for the likes of a multi-thousand thousand gallon pond!)
Understood!

With flexible PVC - which I'll need some of to come out of the pump and some extra to go into the tank (it does come with some hosing), is sizing not the same vs hard pipe? So if I wanted 1" - do I go with 1" flexible?
 
Understood!

With flexible PVC - which I'll need some of to come out of the pump and some extra to go into the tank (it does come with some hosing), is sizing not the same vs hard pipe? So if I wanted 1" - do I go with 1" flexible?

The sizing is the same for PVC fittings and such.

Technically there's a special cement for flexible PVC, but a lot of old timers will say that the regular PVC cement is fine too. I haven't used either on flexible PVC myself, but I've used systems and hoses with flexible PVC made by those old timers. I've never seen an issue.
 

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