UV sterilizer plumbing

[jonelder68]

:( I am just starting down this path and this entire thread has given me anxiety. I had planned to just run the uv inline

pump --->flex line into UV --->into hard plumbing return that currently has the flex from the return running into it.

Is this not adequate? lol I ordered a different UV but this thread indicates I might have to do more lol

Most important is sizing a Uv with the proper flow rate. I run a high turn over rate and for what I’m targeting needed to adjust flow rate Down through the Uv. With ball valves inline it makes everything adjustable/tunable.

 

[DmitryB]

:( I am just starting down this path and this entire thread has given me anxiety. I had planned to just run the uv inline

pump --->flex line into UV --->into hard plumbing return that currently has the flex from the return running into it.

Is this not adequate? lol I ordered a different UV but this thread indicates I might have to do more lol

Yep I feel the same way. Plumbing the UV is going to be a disaster!

 

[DmitryB]

I wish they made 180 degree schedule 40 or 80 PVC. (Do they?) that would be gentler on the flow than two 90 degrees.

Also, silicone not flex PVC?

flex pvc comes off a giant roll and will hold the curve basically forever, it can not truly be flexed into contorted shapes. I would describe it as semi-rigid not flexible. Silicone can actually be bent to meet your needs making plumbing connections easier, removes vibration, and will not force your plumbing back into the macaroni shape it desires to be in over time. All you need is a foot of it to make your life easier.

Is there a special type of silicone I'm looking for that's saltwater compatible? The tank came with a silicone hose for the return pump.

 

[Privateye]

Is there a special type of silicone I'm looking for that's saltwater compatible? The tank came with a silicone hose for the return pump.

When it comes to silicone, if it works for fresh water then it works for salt water. So your hose should be fine. Silicone hoses are often chosen when you want something really limp/stretchy.

When we're talking about silicone adhesive, then it's the same one for fresh and salt (you can use a glass aquarium for either, which are sealed with silicone, for example) but you want to make sure you buy one that's aquarium-safe.

 

[DmitryB]

Is there a special type of silicone I'm looking for that's saltwater compatible? The tank came with a silicone hose for the return pump.

When it comes to silicone, if it works for fresh water then it works for salt water. So your hose should be fine. Silicone hoses are often chosen when you want something really limp/stretchy.

When we're talking about silicone adhesive, then it's the same one for fresh and salt (you can use a glass aquarium for either, which are sealed with silicone, for example) but you want to make sure you buy one that's aquarium-safe.

What about vinyl hose? It's a bit stiffer which feels more sturdy (though it realize that's not always the case.)

 

[Privateye]

What about vinyl hose? It's a bit stiffer which feels more sturdy (though it realize that's not always the case.)

Vinyl is fine too. Neither should cause any issues in your system, it's just a matter of preference for the application.

Polyethylene tubing looks like vinyl but it's even stiffer. It's also safe, just hard to work with by comparison.

 

[Krux]

Is there a special type of silicone I'm looking for that's saltwater compatible? The tank came with a silicone hose for the return pump.

My preference is a thicker wall so it doesn’t kink. Beyond that just look for something food safe.

If you ever want to run silicone lines for dosing chemicals look for platinum in the description.

 

[DmitryB]

Ok so - I managed to put the UV sterilizer up into the stand. This will need more work - it's hanging via velcro straps on tension locks. Really no other way to attach it to the stand. It does need to be held in place though so it doesn't wobble. Maybe the PVC and water-weight would keep it from wobbling? Or I need some sort of bracket somewhere to keep it steadier. But it is hanging.

I seriously considered (maybe still do!) to put it on the bottom of the stand, in front of the sump... It's in the way no matter where you put it. I wanted it further back in the stand, but the skimmer is now in the way. And the tank plumbing is in the way also. So it's gotta be hanging somewhere in the front.

So now - I may have all my PVC ready. Where in this diagram would you put Wye connectors to bypass the UV sterilizers if I wanted to? (I have a 1'' Wye and two 3/4'' Wyes). I also bought a two 3/4 true union ball valves, plus a 3/4'' and 1'' union pipe fittings. So lots to choose from.

 

[DmitryB]

Made a revision to the diagram - flipped the sterilizer so the nozzles carrying water are up; that's how I have it.

Where should I put Wye connectors (with true union ball valves??) so I can bypass UV if I ever wanted to.

Incidentally, the water can flow in either direction - I wonder if it makes any difference for plumbing efficiency if the water goes in on the right and comes out on the left.

 

[UncommonSense]

Ok so - I managed to put the UV sterilizer up into the stand. This will need more work - it's hanging via velcro straps on tension locks. Really no other way to attach it to the stand. It does need to be held in place though so it doesn't wobble. Maybe the PVC and water-weight would keep it from wobbling? Or I need some sort of bracket somewhere to keep it steadier. But it is hanging.

I seriously considered (maybe still do!) to put it on the bottom of the stand, in front of the sump... It's in the way no matter where you put it. I wanted it further back in the stand, but the skimmer is now in the way. And the tank plumbing is in the way also. So it's gotta be hanging somewhere in the front.

So now - I may have all my PVC ready. Where in this diagram would you put Wye connectors to bypass the UV sterilizers if I wanted to? (I have a 1'' Wye and two 3/4'' Wyes). I also bought a two 3/4 true union ball valves, plus a 3/4'' and 1'' union pipe fittings. So lots to choose from.

I think you can keep the lengths of 1.5” plumbing much shorter and run 3/4” or 1” pipe instead! The step down to 1.5” NPT, before stepping down again to 3/4”-1” mentioned earlier just prevents you from needing to buy new UV union halves if you want to increase plumbing diameter later!

Where should I put Wye connectors (with true union ball valves??) so I can bypass UV if I ever wanted to.

Anywhere in the plumbing where it’s convenient to just “go around” the UV sterilizer with a length of pipe will work!

Example:

Example diagram, (in my messy chicken scratch):

This is obviously not your exact plumbing layout, but it should hopefully help you wrap your head around the core concept!

(Specifically, isolating the UV sterilizer from pressurized return plumbing water in the event of a UV housing leak, or general maintenance!)