UV sterilizer plumbing

[jonelder68]

:( I am just starting down this path and this entire thread has given me anxiety. I had planned to just run the uv inline

pump --->flex line into UV --->into hard plumbing return that currently has the flex from the return running into it.

Is this not adequate? lol I ordered a different UV but this thread indicates I might have to do more lol

Most important is sizing a Uv with the proper flow rate. I run a high turn over rate and for what I’m targeting needed to adjust flow rate Down through the Uv. With ball valves inline it makes everything adjustable/tunable.

 

[DmitryB]

:( I am just starting down this path and this entire thread has given me anxiety. I had planned to just run the uv inline

pump --->flex line into UV --->into hard plumbing return that currently has the flex from the return running into it.

Is this not adequate? lol I ordered a different UV but this thread indicates I might have to do more lol

Yep I feel the same way. Plumbing the UV is going to be a disaster!

 

[DmitryB]

I wish they made 180 degree schedule 40 or 80 PVC. (Do they?) that would be gentler on the flow than two 90 degrees.

Also, silicone not flex PVC?

flex pvc comes off a giant roll and will hold the curve basically forever, it can not truly be flexed into contorted shapes. I would describe it as semi-rigid not flexible. Silicone can actually be bent to meet your needs making plumbing connections easier, removes vibration, and will not force your plumbing back into the macaroni shape it desires to be in over time. All you need is a foot of it to make your life easier.

Is there a special type of silicone I'm looking for that's saltwater compatible? The tank came with a silicone hose for the return pump.

 

[Privateye]

Is there a special type of silicone I'm looking for that's saltwater compatible? The tank came with a silicone hose for the return pump.

When it comes to silicone, if it works for fresh water then it works for salt water. So your hose should be fine. Silicone hoses are often chosen when you want something really limp/stretchy.

When we're talking about silicone adhesive, then it's the same one for fresh and salt (you can use a glass aquarium for either, which are sealed with silicone, for example) but you want to make sure you buy one that's aquarium-safe.

 

[DmitryB]

Is there a special type of silicone I'm looking for that's saltwater compatible? The tank came with a silicone hose for the return pump.

When it comes to silicone, if it works for fresh water then it works for salt water. So your hose should be fine. Silicone hoses are often chosen when you want something really limp/stretchy.

When we're talking about silicone adhesive, then it's the same one for fresh and salt (you can use a glass aquarium for either, which are sealed with silicone, for example) but you want to make sure you buy one that's aquarium-safe.

What about vinyl hose? It's a bit stiffer which feels more sturdy (though it realize that's not always the case.)

 

[Privateye]

What about vinyl hose? It's a bit stiffer which feels more sturdy (though it realize that's not always the case.)

Vinyl is fine too. Neither should cause any issues in your system, it's just a matter of preference for the application.

Polyethylene tubing looks like vinyl but it's even stiffer. It's also safe, just hard to work with by comparison.

 

[Krux]

Is there a special type of silicone I'm looking for that's saltwater compatible? The tank came with a silicone hose for the return pump.

My preference is a thicker wall so it doesn’t kink. Beyond that just look for something food safe.

If you ever want to run silicone lines for dosing chemicals look for platinum in the description.

 

[DmitryB]

Ok so - I managed to put the UV sterilizer up into the stand. This will need more work - it's hanging via velcro straps on tension locks. Really no other way to attach it to the stand. It does need to be held in place though so it doesn't wobble. Maybe the PVC and water-weight would keep it from wobbling? Or I need some sort of bracket somewhere to keep it steadier. But it is hanging.

I seriously considered (maybe still do!) to put it on the bottom of the stand, in front of the sump... It's in the way no matter where you put it. I wanted it further back in the stand, but the skimmer is now in the way. And the tank plumbing is in the way also. So it's gotta be hanging somewhere in the front.

So now - I may have all my PVC ready. Where in this diagram would you put Wye connectors to bypass the UV sterilizers if I wanted to? (I have a 1'' Wye and two 3/4'' Wyes). I also bought a two 3/4 true union ball valves, plus a 3/4'' and 1'' union pipe fittings. So lots to choose from.

 

[DmitryB]

Made a revision to the diagram - flipped the sterilizer so the nozzles carrying water are up; that's how I have it.

Where should I put Wye connectors (with true union ball valves??) so I can bypass UV if I ever wanted to.

Incidentally, the water can flow in either direction - I wonder if it makes any difference for plumbing efficiency if the water goes in on the right and comes out on the left.

 

[UncommonSense]

Ok so - I managed to put the UV sterilizer up into the stand. This will need more work - it's hanging via velcro straps on tension locks. Really no other way to attach it to the stand. It does need to be held in place though so it doesn't wobble. Maybe the PVC and water-weight would keep it from wobbling? Or I need some sort of bracket somewhere to keep it steadier. But it is hanging.

I seriously considered (maybe still do!) to put it on the bottom of the stand, in front of the sump... It's in the way no matter where you put it. I wanted it further back in the stand, but the skimmer is now in the way. And the tank plumbing is in the way also. So it's gotta be hanging somewhere in the front.

So now - I may have all my PVC ready. Where in this diagram would you put Wye connectors to bypass the UV sterilizers if I wanted to? (I have a 1'' Wye and two 3/4'' Wyes). I also bought a two 3/4 true union ball valves, plus a 3/4'' and 1'' union pipe fittings. So lots to choose from.

I think you can keep the lengths of 1.5” plumbing much shorter and run 3/4” or 1” pipe instead! The step down to 1.5” NPT, before stepping down again to 3/4”-1” mentioned earlier just prevents you from needing to buy new UV union halves if you want to increase plumbing diameter later!

Where should I put Wye connectors (with true union ball valves??) so I can bypass UV if I ever wanted to.

Anywhere in the plumbing where it’s convenient to just “go around” the UV sterilizer with a length of pipe will work!

Example:

Example diagram, (in my messy chicken scratch):

This is obviously not your exact plumbing layout, but it should hopefully help you wrap your head around the core concept!

(Specifically, isolating the UV sterilizer from pressurized return plumbing water in the event of a UV housing leak, or general maintenance!)

 

[DmitryB]

How do you feel about creating a ball union valve that's also reducing at the same time? Is that possible? This would make fewer connections and solve 2 problems at once. I'm surprised this is not factory-made. Seems like there'd be a market for this??

 

[UncommonSense]

How do you feel about creating a ball union valve that's also reducing at the same time? Is that possible? This would make fewer connections and solve 2 problems at once. I'm surprised this is not factory-made. Seems like there'd be a market for this??

The ball valve is usually put on the smaller plumbing size in this case to save money on plastic!

You usually see thread to slip adapters in numerous permutations, but size adapters are a bit more use case specific! (Most people aren’t halving the plumbing diameter of a device in typical plumbing installs… UVs just have a massive flow range for various applications, thus plumbing is sized to run the likes of a pond, or swimming pool without significant restriction!)

 

[DmitryB]

How do you feel about creating a ball union valve that's also reducing at the same time? Is that possible? This would make fewer connections and solve 2 problems at once. I'm surprised this is not factory-made. Seems like there'd be a market for this??

The ball valve is usually put on the smaller plumbing size in this case to save money on plastic!

You usually see thread to slip adapters in numerous permutations, but size adapters are a bit more use case specific! (Most people aren’t halving the plumbing diameter of a device in typical plumbing install… UVs just have a massive flow range for various applications, thus plumbing is sized to run the likes of a pond, or swimming pool without significant restriction!)

So it'd be ok to create a 3/4" to 1.5" true ball valve adapter (if I can figure out how to do it!)? No risks on that? I guess one side might have to be cemented in? I've been looking online and that seems to be the way. But I've only now began to explore this possibility. There's not much room inside the sump to make so many transitions, you know? It's a tight fit in there!

 

[UncommonSense]

So it'd be ok to create a 3/4" to 1.5" true ball valve adapter (if I can figure out how to do it!)? No risks on that? I guess one side might have to be cemented in? I've been looking online and that seems to be the way. But I've only now began to explore this possibility. There's not much room inside the sump to make so many transitions, you know? It's a tight fit in there!

As mentioned before, putting your reducers right at the sterilizer; 2” slip X 1.5” NPT reducing bushing, then 1.5” NPT X 3/4” or 1” slip reducing burning reduces you from 2” slip to 3/4”-1” slip in the span of less than two inches per-sterilizer side!

a 2” slip X 1.5” NPT reducer bushing cemented into UV inlet and outlet permanently reduces
to the largest plumbing size you’ll ever need, with threads vs. a 1.5” slip socket, so that connection is not permanent.

In the 1.5” female threads you now have, add a 1.5” male threaded X 3/4”-1” slip reducing bushing, then plumb everything out from there in 3/4”-1”! This arrangement specifically adds a threaded connection to the UV’s plumbing reducers, ensuring that you aren’t permanently gluing 3/4”-1” plumbing into this rather large UV!

 

[DmitryB]

As mentioned before, putting your reducers right at the sterilizer; 2” slip X 1.5” NPT reducing bushing, then 1.5” NPT X 3/4” or 1” slip reducing burning reduces you from 2” slip to 3/4”-1” slip in the span of less than two inches per-sterilizer side!

a 2” slip X 1.5” NPT reducer bushing cemented into UV inlet and outlet permanently reduces
to the largest plumbing size you’ll ever need, with threads vs. a 1.5” slip socket, so that connection is not permanent.

In the 1.5” female threads you now have, add a 1.5” male threaded X 3/4”-1” slip reducing bushing, then plumb everything out from there in 3/4”-1”! This arrangement specifically adds a threaded connection to the UV’s plumbing reducers, ensuring that you aren’t permanently gluing 3/4”-1” plumbing into this rather large UV!

Ok I think I understand what you're staying. LOL. Threaded fittings are never cemented? Is it worth putting union valves at any stage for easy disassembly?

 

[UncommonSense]

Threaded fittings are never cemented?

Threaded fittings use teflon tape if metal, or paint on/glue stick type thread sealant if plastic for best results! This said, they can simply be unscrewed from one-another down the road!

The primary bottleneck with threaded fittings is the long pipe runs, there are ways to get around this with threaded pipe lengths but that’s getting beyond the scope of discussion!

— in summary, threaded fittings are excellent where something in plumbing might ever need to be disassembled/changed, with slip/cemented fittings everywhere else! (Hence the various adapter fittings from slip to thread being very prevalent!)

Is it worth putting union valves at any stage for easy disassembly?

The union valves are convenient, assuming you plan their plumbing layout carefully! (In some cases a simple union makes more sense space-efficiency and plumbing layout-wise)

— this is to say, the UV sterilizer body already has big 2” unions on it, so that’s covered for major disassembly unless your specific plumbing makes getting the union collars off unreasonably difficult!

— The return pump side of the return plumbing usually has a union on it, as does the tank side of the return plumbing (to decouple tank from sump if things need major service or are getting moved)… the only place which could potentially benefit from a union valve in the return plumbing is the UV bypass valve, as that splits one circuitous plumbing route into two halves if disassembly is required!

— Your return pump options are both DC, thus controllable output… so, there’s no reason for a dedicated flow control valve on the return pump such as some reefers did with fixed output AC pumps!

(If you already have the union valves, you could use them in all three locations on the above UV bypass plumbing diagram, the union function is just semi-redundant on the two valves immediately adjacent to the UV’s own unions!)

 

[DmitryB]

Ok I'm still working on the design of this thing!

It would save a lot of space if I could turn a True Union Ball Valve (around the Wye splits) to also be a reducer at the same time, going from 3/4 vinyl on the pump side to 1-1/2 PVC (flex or hard) heading towards the UV. I don't know if they make those, but if I use a reducer, then I should be able to connect a 1-1/2 to one side of the 3/4 TUBV, right? (I want the TUBV on the Wyes so I can bypass the UV if I wanted to service it.) I have to figure out the correct measurements because the threaded parts of the TUBV are not the same size as the PVC itself. I assume I'd need a reducer that matches the diameter of the threads, not the PVC?

Is this what I would need to connect the two sizes in a TBUV or something else??

Also just playing around with some fittings, the 3/4 Vinyl that goes from the pump to the return - and would switch to PVC in this scenario to head towards UV - is a pretty loose connection in the 3/4 TUBV. How does Vinyl get to work in this situation? How to transition from it to PVC (flex or hard).

 

[UncommonSense]

Ok I'm still working on the design of this thing!

It would save a lot of space if I could turn a True Union Ball Valve (around the Wye splits) to also be a reducer at the same time, going from 3/4 vinyl on the pump side to 1-1/2 PVC (flex or hard) heading towards the UV. I don't know if they make those, but if I use a reducer, then I should be able to connect a 1-1/2 to one side of the 3/4 TUBV, right? (I want the TUBV on the Wyes so I can bypass the UV if I wanted to service it.) I have to figure out the correct measurements because the threaded parts of the TUBV are not the same size as the PVC itself. I assume I'd need a reducer that matches the diameter of the threads, not the PVC?

Is this what I would need to connect the two sizes in a TBUV or something else??

Also just playing around with some fittings, the 3/4 Vinyl that goes from the pump to the return - and would switch to PVC in this scenario to head towards UV - is a pretty loose connection in the 3/4 TUBV. How does Vinyl get to work in this situation? How to transition from it to PVC (flex or hard).

I’m in a rush this morning, and am struggling to fully understand the scope of your question… I think ID or OD needs to be specified for PVC, ideally in addition to the fitting type in question…

Reference my initial response (post#2) for the majority of your other questions…

 

[DmitryB]

Oooh just had a bright idea (!) - would a Double Wye or Double Tee work here, removing the need for two Wyes?

 

[Privateye]

I'm also have a little trouble trying to picture what you're trying to do, and I don't want to guess the wrong configuration. Would you be able to draw it out a little bit?

In general, yes it sounds like a reducer bushing is what you're looking for:

These would slide into a PVC fitting like a pipe would. You can get various configurations of sizes, with options for slip or thread for either connection. There are reducer couplings too (which go over PVC pipe) but it sounds like a bushing is better for you, if I'm picturing things correctly.

The way you'd switch from PVC to vinyl tubing is with a barb adapter:

These are also offered with various configurations of thread and barb size, and you can get ones with male and female threads. So if I were going from, say, a 1.5" PVC fitting to 3/4" vinyl tube, I'd look for a 1.5" x 3/4" FNPT reducer bushing (i.e. with the 3/4" hole being threaded). The other side can be slip or thread depending on what you're connecting to. Then I'd just need a 3/4" MNPT x 3/4" barb adapter, which is an easy size to find. The barb adapter should be plastic (the brass ones will rust and they can kill invertebrates).

Use teflon tape on the threaded connections, but if you haven't used if before be sure not to use too much. The added pressure can split fittings in some cases.

Also, you'll need a hose clamp to make sure the hose stays on the barb. Stainless steel (if it will be dry) or plastic (if it will get wet) are both options. I feel like the metal ones do a better job, but even stainless steel will eventually rust in seawater, so sometimes I go for plastic. I always go for plastic if it will be submerged.