Booster Pump Install

[fragit]

@AZDesertRat I bought a spectra pure Maxspect RO/DI filter and needed a booster pump. I got the booster pump kit from bulk reef today, did not come with great directions. Before I made my purchase I checked on spectrapure's website to confirm they are the same pumps, they are. I have been looking at spectrapure's install diagram, it appears that the input side of the booster pump gets connected to the output from the sediment and carbon block filters before the RO membrane. The output from the booster goes to the input to the RO membrane. Then the pressure switch goes inline in the product water line(I have a float switch in my brute RO can). Am I understanding the install correctly? Thank you kindly for your help.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Yep, you have it correct. By placing the pump after the prefilters you are protecting it from silt or sediment. With the pressure switch on the product line it will shut the pump off once the float valve is raised and pressure trips the switch. Do you have an autoshutoff valve also to shut the waste flow off too?

 

[fragit]

I don't but I'm not going to be filtering water when I'm not around. And with the booster pump I can hear it running so that's a reminder as well. The float switch is more of an extra precaution so that I don't flood my basement. Right now I've got the pressure set at 70psi it won't go much lower maybe down to 65 or so. Spectrapure recommends no more than 80psi. Am I good at 70 or should I drop it more?

 

[fragit]

@AZDesertRat does it matter which direction the pressure switch is attached to the product line? Does it have a in/out direction. And does the order of the wiring harnesses matter?

 

[AZDesertRat]

I have run my booster between 95-100 psi for over 8 years now, the higher the pressure the more efficient the membrane is so DI lasts much longer. Spectrapure like any other vendor will tell you 80 psi for liability reasons, they don't want to be sued if you crank it up, crack a fitting or housing and flood your home. Membranes and RO components that meet ANSI/NSF Standards and Uniform Plumbing Codes are rated at 125-150 psi working pressure and many times that for burst or surge pressure.

I am not sure on the switch direction, if it does not have directional arrows I would assume it to be bidirectional. Same with the wiring harness.

 

[twilliard]

I have run my booster between 95-100 psi for over 8 years now, the higher the pressure the more efficient the membrane is so DI lasts much longer. Spectrapure like any other vendor will tell you 80 psi for liability reasons, they don't want to be sued if you crank it up, crack a fitting or housing and flood your home. Membranes and RO components that meet ANSI/NSF Standards and Uniform Plumbing Codes are rated at 125-150 psi working pressure and many times that for burst or surge pressure.

I am not sure on the switch direction, if it does not have directional arrows I would assume it to be bidirectional. Same with the wiring harness.

Would you recommend a booster pump for the average in home installation?
I want to extend the life of my membrane and DI
I am hooked up to the normal city water pressure (don't know the psi as I don't run gauges)
Thanks!
Todd

 

[AZDesertRat]

Absolutely. If you have 60 psi or less at the tap you will gain a lot in efficiency as well as possibly double your GPD.
Here is a sticky thread from another forum that shows what you can expect by using a booster.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1234209

 

[twilliard]

Absolutely. If you have 60 psi or less at the tap you will gain a lot in efficiency as well as possibly double your GPD.
Here is a sticky thread from another forum that shows what you can expect by using a booster.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1234209

Thank you!