BRS 4 stage RODI

[shores94]

My tap water is 63 TDS. I ran the RODI system for the recommended hour. Still reading 10 TDS. I’ve tried testing the clean water in multiple clean glass containers. Any advice?

 

[CHSUB]

63 is extremely low for tap water and 10 is impossibly high for rodi water. Pictures and how the system is installed are needed.

 

[Afrashz]

I know there are lots of helpful people on this site. Hopefully someone can help you out with this issue

 

[shores94]

63 is extremely low for tap water and 10 is impossibly high for rodi water. Pictures and how the system is installed are needed.

 

[hatfielj]

That’s a 4 stage RO only from the looks of it. That last stage before the RO membrane appears to be a carbon block. 10 tds after the RO membrane is within reason depending on the quality of the filters and your water pressure.
You can add a DI stage after the RO membrane and get it down to 0 easily.

 

[Uncle99]

My tap water is 63 TDS. I ran the RODI system for the recommended hour. Still reading 10 TDS. I’ve tried testing the clean water in multiple clean glass containers. Any advice?

A normal RO membrane when functioning will lower tap TDS by 95-99%. So your 63 would be say 3-5ppm “ish” and DI can easily clean up that.

I run it more without DI until you get 3-5ppm, it may take several hours.

Order is sediment, carbon(s) RO then DI.

what is your tds just after RO and before DI.?

 

[hatfielj]

Yeah, I’m wondering if you have your DI stage installed before the carbon block? Like Uncle99 said it goes: Sediment, Carbon, RO, then DI

 

[shores94]

This is the model I bought. It comes pre assembled in the instructions it just says hook it up and run for an hour.

 

[CHSUB]

Hard to tell but this doesn’t look like di resin.

 

[Uncle99]

Hard to tell but this doesn’t look like di resin.

It’s not, it’s a carbon block.
The resin container looks like the 3 container in the pic. It will be full of tiny bluish dots like sugar.
With No DI that would certainly result in 2-10ppm.

 

[slingfox]

It is impossible for people to assess the setup with these pictures. Specifically, you should show a front on view so people can see what canisters are installed.

 

[Afrashz]

It is impossible for people to assess the setup with these pictures. Specifically, you should show a front on view so people can see what canisters are installed.

In other words…hey @shores94 , do you mind showing us a pic from the front so we can better see what’s going on? Thanks!

 

[overhead]

I have the 5 stage and get 60 psi. At first I would have 5-8ppm after the 4th stage prior to going into the DI "5th stage" and would get 0 TDS after the DI. After a while, can't really remember how long, but it was likely a couple of hours, I had/have 1 or 2 TDS out of the 4th stage prior to the DI and get 0 TDS after the DI. It is running right now and I checked, 1 TDS prior to the DI, 0 TDS coming out of the DI. If I recall correctly the 5 stage with the built in TDS meter, pressure gauge and bypass cost like $50 more than what you purchased.

 

[shores94]

 

[Ocellaris123]

you dont have a di stage as previously noted

 

[slingfox]

I believe the ordered the wrong unit. The above is one sediment filter, two carbon blocks and one RO membrane. You don’t have the DI stage which is needed to bring TDS down to zero.

If you ordered the unit shown in the picture from BRS then they shipped you the wrong unit. Look at the labeling in black above each canister. The BRS photo and the photo of your unit do not match up. If you are able to exchange the unit, you should use that as an opportunity to get one with a pressure gauge and in-line TDS meter. Those are very very useful to have in the long run since they will help tell you when the various filters need to be replaced.

 

[Submerge]

You have a 5 micron then 1 micron carbon block, no di resin

 

[shores94]

Looks like I actually bought this model. Do I have to buy a whole new system or can I just swap cartridges

 

[Uncle99]

Looks like I actually bought this model. Do I have to buy a whole new system or can I just swap cartridges

Just need to buy a separate canister with refillable 10” DI sleeve, some resin, and put it last.

Or pull a carbon filter and replace with same sleeve full with resin.

No big issue.



Sediment Carbon carbon RO DI, even better.

 

[Shirak]

I would get the add on canister with DI and the inline tds meter https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single-deionization-canister-with-dm-1-dual-tds-meter.html
I would also recommend a T valve between the RO going to the add on DI canister so you can open it and collect RO only for a few minutes after turning on the system. Once the TDS on the RO has dropped to where it should be then you close the T valve and let the RO go into the DI housing.