Bryopsis Algae, Magnesium Still A Solution?

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If your present mag level is 1300 you need to bump it slightly anyway, might as well begin dosing at a safe pace w/ the tech M and see where it goes.
Being that your mag is already low you may not need to elevate it that much, as it's not so much the elevated level as it is how much is actually tech M

IMO, 1300 ppm is not low. It already is at or slightly above magnesium in the ocean at 35 ppt (1.0264).

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I recently treated my 40 gal. mixed reef tank with Kent Tech M for 5 months for a moderate outbreak of bryopsis. The bryopsis definitely took a hit but would not quite die. So I raised my mag to 2000 ppm but still had bryopsis. At that point, I separated some of the mag (the clear liquid) from what I guessed is probably the bryopsis killing secret ingredient (the brownish stuff that sinks to the bottom of the container), in an attempt to dose less mag and more secret ingredient. This definitely made a big difference, and I thought I'd won...but no, soon as I stopped dosing, bryopsis came back. .

Interesting. If the hypothesis about impurities is correct, maintaining magnesium high for a long time may not help if the impurity is more rapidly depleted (like a heavy metal precipitating or being incorporated into CaCO3, etc.

The solids effect is also interesting, and it too may have a time limited effect.

 

[davocean]

IMO, 1300 ppm is not low. It already is at or slightly above magnesium in the ocean at 35 ppt (1.0264).

OK I've always seen 1350 to be the number
Looking at my salifert test kit and it states 1300-1500 depending on salinity

 

[RMS18]

IMO, 1300 ppm is not low. It already is at or slightly above magnesium in the ocean at 35 ppt (1.0264).

Well I'm at 1480 today and my corals are not liking this. Some zoas aren't opening, some look deflated, acans aren't plump, bubble coral isn't open, frogspawn isn't open, shrooms are not expanding and clams mouth isn't open. Algae is still there looking strong.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

OK I've always seen 1350 to be the number
Looking at my salifert test kit and it states 1300-1500 depending on salinity

I'm not sure why they recommend such a high end except that there seems to be no problem with it.

Here's the magnesium summary from one of my article on it:

Magnesium

Magnesium's primary importance is its interaction with the calcium and alkalinity balance in reef aquaria. Seawater and reef aquarium water are always supersaturated with calcium carbonate. That is, the solution's calcium and carbonate levels exceed the amount that the water can hold at equilibrium. How can that be? Magnesium is a big part of the answer. Whenever calcium carbonate begins to precipitate, magnesium binds to the growing surface of the calcium carbonate crystals. The magnesium effectively clogs the growing crystal surface so that they no longer look like calcium carbonate, making it unable to attract more calcium and carbonate, so the precipitation stops. Without the magnesium, the abiotic (nonbiological) precipitation of calcium carbonate would likely increase enough to prohibit the maintenance of calcium and alkalinity at natural levels.

For this reason, I suggest targeting the natural seawater concentration of magnesium: ~1285 ppm. For practical purposes, 1250-1350 ppm is fine, and levels slightly outside that range (1250-1400 ppm) are also likely acceptable. Higher levels may be fine, but there is no reason to keep it higher, with the possible exception of trying to kill bryopsis with certain magnesium supplements (which may work due to an impurity rather than the magnesium itself). I would not suggest raising magnesium by more than 100 ppm per day under normal conditions, in case the magnesium supplement contains any toxic impurities. If you need to raise it by several hundred ppm, spreading the addition over several days will allow you to more accurately reach the target concentration, and might possibly allow the aquarium to handle any impurities that the supplement contains (such as ammonia or trace metals).

An aquarium's corals and coralline algae can deplete magnesium by incorporating it into their growing calcium carbonate skeletons. Many methods of supplementing calcium and alkalinity may not deliver enough magnesium to maintain it at a normal level. Settled limewater (kalkwasser), for example, is quite deficient in magnesium relative to a coral skeleton. Consequently, magnesium should be measured occasionally, particularly if the aquarium's calcium and alkalinity levels seem difficult to maintain. Aquaria with excessive abiotic precipitation of calcium carbonate on objects such as heaters and pumps might suffer from low magnesium levels (along with high pH, calcium, and alkalinity). In general, magnesium is usually depleted at roughly 10% of the rate of calcium depletion, or less, depending on the creatures in the aquarium. Any depletion rate that is much higher than that is either due to testing errors, or water changes with a mix that has a different magnesium level than the aquarium.

Many people never need any magnesium supplements. Some salt mixes start so high that it will never drop below natural levels, and some calcium and alkalinity supplement methods, such as a good quality two part system, add enough magnesium that it should not decline.

 

[Sabellafella]

Best way to battle is qt pieces with it, pluck as much as you could off and treat with target or peroxide dips

 

[davocean]

Yes RHF, my only point was since OP was on the lower end they would probably not need to shoot for such a high elevation.

OP, many people have had their mag much higher, it is pretty much agreed upon that you would need to exceed normal levels by a pretty dramatic amount before showing any negative signs in your livestock, having your mag at 1700-1800 or even higher should pose no risk whatsoever.

 

[RMS18]

Yes RHF, my only point was since OP was on the lower end they would probably not need to shoot for such a high elevation.

OP, many people have had their mag much higher, it is pretty much agreed upon that you would need to exceed normal levels by a pretty dramatic amount before showing any negative signs in your livestock, having your mag at 1700-1800 or even higher should pose no risk whatsoever.

Hmmm alright guess I have something else going on. I'll have to decide if I just push through or stop and do a water change.

 

[davocean]

Hmmm alright guess I have something else going on. I'll have to decide if I just push through or stop and do a water change.

It's very possible you could have other issues, it's hard to say from my end.
Our comments or advice are generally speaking, most common observation and outcome, but really only you know your tanks history and only you can actually see what is going on, so w/ that said all I can say is go w/ your gut.
Having dealt w/ the nightmare of dealing w/ bry on several of my tanks over the years, and tanks I took care of, tech M was by far the easiest solution, and it has worked for so many I have seen on the boards for quite a while.
I am merely pointing out what is IMO the easiest solution, at this time

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Yes RHF, my only point was since OP was on the lower end they would probably not need to shoot for such a high elevation.

OP, many people have had their mag much higher, it is pretty much agreed upon that you would need to exceed normal levels by a pretty dramatic amount before showing any negative signs in your livestock, having your mag at 1700-1800 or even higher should pose no risk whatsoever.

Yes, I agree. I would shoot for a specific rise (say, 400 ppm), not a final number.

 

[Orly20]

Today would be a week I slowly raised my mg level up to 1700 and I have seen definitely improvements. The bryopsis started to turn white and get long and stringy, I then did something that I had read on another post, I got a filter sock and syphoned out all the bryopsis as possible into the sock and all the polished tank water was dumped back into the tank. I did this to keep the mag levels the same and I don't need to add any more Tech M. I noticed that its still getting weaker and weaker everyday, hopefully all of it will go away soon. The corals are all doing fine, some acros have just a little bit less pe but all good.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Today would be a week I slowly raised my mg level up to 1700 and I have seen definitely improvements. The bryopsis started to turn white and get long and stringy, I then did something that I had read on another post, I got a filter sock and syphoned out all the bryopsis as possible into the sock and all the polished tank water was dumped back into the tank. I did this to keep the mag levels the same and I don't need to add any more Tech M. I noticed that its still getting weaker and weaker everyday, hopefully all of it will go away soon. The corals are all doing fine, some acros have just a little bit less pe but all good.

What additive did you use?

 

[Orly20]

Hi RHF, I used Kent Marine Tech M

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Hi RHF, I used Kent Marine Tech M

OK, thanks!

 

[Orly20]

Let me say that I did notice today my monti's are getting little pale and have little to no pe. I am going to hold the mag levels until the end of the week and see where I am with the bryopsis but I keep seeing it withering away more and more everyday. lets see

 

[ether]

Sorry to drag an old thread, but has anyone used Kent lately with or without good results?

 

[ajl]

I am interested in using Magnesium, potentially, but I read that it is possibly the other elements in Tech M. Also, I have had success in the past with Flucanazole. The only problem is that it kind of zaps my chaeto in the refugium. This is the only reason I am looking into whether Mg supplements will work.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I am interested in using Magnesium, potentially, but I read that it is possibly the other elements in Tech M. Also, I have had success in the past with Flucanazole. The only problem is that it kind of zaps my chaeto in the refugium. This is the only reason I am looking into whether Mg supplements will work.

It may well have been other elements since other magnesium supplements did not do the trick for many folks.

I've not seen folks use this method lately. Tech M may certainly have changed suppliers over the years too, possibly eliminating the benefit.

I'd treat this method as entirely experimental.

 

[Lord_Mort]

I know this is an OLD thread but I was hoping to hear from the OP.
I am in the same position as their last post. I've elevated my magnesium and now my Zoas are not opening.
How did things work out for you? @RMS18

 

[hunterallen40]

Old thread, but just wanted to state that I tried tech M a month or two ago for treating it in my frag tank. It did absolutely nothing, haha.

I raised alch to a really high level, ~1600. Nothing. I think the efficacy of this treatment has gone away. Ended up using reef flux and it cleaned it right up. Not my favorite treatment, but, when it takes over, you gotta do what you gotta do.