Bryopsis Cure: My Battle With Bryopsis Using Fluconazole
- Thread starter NCreefguy
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Speaker73
New Member
20 mg per gallon of doing the one time dose
Velcro
2500 Club Member
My bad, for some reason I remembered it as 10mg/gal
Hello, probably someone already asked this question. Should I manually remove all the Bryopsis that I can before applying the treatment? Will it work the same if I do it?
I think that maybe its better to do it to reduce the amount of Bryopsis tissue that will die in the DT with the treatment. But maybe this will affect the final goal.
I think that maybe its better to do it to reduce the amount of Bryopsis tissue that will die in the DT with the treatment. But maybe this will affect the final goal.
Velcro
2500 Club Member
Definitely. This will help reduce a huge spike in nutrients as it dies.
Velcro
2500 Club Member
It's unlikely that you'll actually be removing all of it unless you are removing a layer of rock as well.
I agree, its close to impossible to remove it all manually.
Sorry to insist, just want to be sure.
Is this treatment more effective when the Bryopsis is starting to grow and has very small leaves, when it has big leaves, when recently manually removed or it doesn't make any difference at all in regards to effectiveness the size of the Bryopsis leaves?
There still seems to be controversy about this ... the analysis of the reports seems to point out that, in cases where pruning occurred, for some reason the treatment required more time. On the other hand, Bryopsis pruning favors new implants:
Life without a cell membrane: regeneration of protoplasts from disintegrated cells of the marine green seaweed Bryopsis plumosa.
Kim GH1, Klotchkova TA, Kang YM.
Author information
Abstract
When the multi-nucleate giant cells of the green alga Bryopsis plumosa (Huds.) Ag. Are injured, the protoplasm is extruded from the cells and can spontaneously generate numerous new cells. The cell organelles aggregate rapidly in seawater and become covered with a gelatinous envelope within 15 minutes. The lipid cell membrane is formed within the envelope within 9 to 12 hours and about 15% of the original cell membrane is recycled to make the membrane of new protoplasts. Cytochemical studies using Nile Red and various enzymes revealed that the primary envelope is initially composed of polysaccharides, and then transformed into a polysaccharide-lipid complex. Fluorescein diacetate staining showed that the primary envelope has some characteristics of a cell membrane including semi-permeability and selective transport of materials. The aggregation of cell organelles appears to be mediated by two kinds of materials, one present in vacuolar sap and the other on the surface of the cell organelles. About a thousand new cells were generated from a single disintegrated branch and 40% of them eventually developed into mature plants.
Consider that: if Fluconazole acts on the cell wall, it has no way of acting on "membraneless" cell forms as the article tells us, so Bryopsis pruning increases the risk that it can re-implant and return.
I would not recommend pruning.
Best Regards
Last edited:
Thank you very much for the investigation.
So probably the best way will be to apply the treatment and wait for the plant to absorb the Fluconazole for X number of days and then try to remove it all manually as much as possible to reduce the amount of nutrients that will be released in the tank.
But without knowing how many days maybe it will be better to just let it die and not touch it.
In my case the last Triton ICP Test I got showed Phosphorus levels of
2.135 µg/l and Phosphate levels of 0.0065331 mg/l so the nutrients released could actually be a good thing for the tank.
Thank you Velcro and Jose Mayo for the help
So probably the best way will be to apply the treatment and wait for the plant to absorb the Fluconazole for X number of days and then try to remove it all manually as much as possible to reduce the amount of nutrients that will be released in the tank.
But without knowing how many days maybe it will be better to just let it die and not touch it.
In my case the last Triton ICP Test I got showed Phosphorus levels of
2.135 µg/l and Phosphate levels of 0.0065331 mg/l so the nutrients released could actually be a good thing for the tank.
Thank you Velcro and Jose Mayo for the help
Fudsey
Jack of all trades, Master of none ;-)
Reef Squad
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Photo of the Month
Hospitality Award
NHFS Member
My Tank Thread
It just kinda disappears. You really won't be able to remove much. At least that's how it was in my tank
coralcruze
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2014
- Messages
- 902
- Reaction score
- 254
so after reading this thread about 4 weeks ago I decided to try it being that I had a small patch of bryopsis in the refugium and wanted to be proactive and wipe it out so it wont take hold in the main display. what scared me about the bryopsis was that I would pull if off and out of my tank and the stuff grew so fast it would be back in 2 days. So i followed the recommendation set here and it did kill off the majority but not all of the bryopsis. I have observed however that the stuff that remains does not seem to be growing and if it is its soooo slow. So i am happy about that.
However, I had a bleaching event in my tank where 6-7 colonies turned white in a matter of 1-2 days about 6-7 days after I medicated the tank. I can not attribute the bleaching 100% to the meds used but all of my params were stable and as others suggested to continue to dose vodka, i did but i turned off the skimmer and stopped all water changes for the perscribed time.
I am just wondering if anyone had this occur in their tank?
However, I had a bleaching event in my tank where 6-7 colonies turned white in a matter of 1-2 days about 6-7 days after I medicated the tank. I can not attribute the bleaching 100% to the meds used but all of my params were stable and as others suggested to continue to dose vodka, i did but i turned off the skimmer and stopped all water changes for the perscribed time.
I am just wondering if anyone had this occur in their tank?
Fluconazole, by its specific mechanism of action, is not expected to be able to reach any animal, but ... there are many sources for Fluconazole on the market and the excipient used to make up the tablet is not always the same. It would be interesting to report not only the fact but the conditions in which it occurred and which brand / origin of Fluconazole was used. Thus coincidences of good or bad outcome could be perceived and perhaps related to the brand of Fluconazol used.
Best regards
coralcruze
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2014
- Messages
- 902
- Reaction score
- 254
Ok thats a bit scary! I didn't think that I was using a product that could have been made by a. differant sources and b. exipient used is not always the same.
if it helps I purchsed from the same online source that the OP purchased from in the first few posts in this thread.
as for conditions used... My tank is a mature 8 years old and bI have been in the hobby for 18 years so most of my corals came into this tank from previouse build. I would not have started any meds of any kind if my params are as close to perfect as they can possibly be. so I will state some params as close to what I remember them to be if that helps.
1. temp 77-78
2. ph 8.2-8.3
3. alk 10-10.5
4. cal 500
5. po4 .03-.08
6. No3 5 ppm
my lights Kessil ap700's have been running with the same setting for nearly 3 years.
my waterchanges are automated using apex at 2 cups a day for stability using instant ocean
my feeding is automated using apex DOS at about 7 ml x 3 times daily... the same type food used for the past 5 years
my alk and cal replenishment is Randy Holms Farly's old recipe I have been using now for the past 7-8 years
my vodka dosing is the same with slight increase of 5>>>7 ml daily over the course of a year. the last time I increased a ml was 6 months ago.
only other item I dose is amino and that's the same (acro power)
corals were all heathy and doing perfectly prior to dosing the meds with no bryopsis in the main display that I can see. turf algae has been observed for over 10 years but has never out competed the corals or caused any effect except visual appearance.
only corals not completely perfect were a meat coral and a cyanerina. Those are both actually doing better now.
At first I thought that maybe my vodka dosing was the cause somehow but I no longer think this was the case. then I thought the doser didn't deliver the proper amount of food but then remembered this occured befor with food getting stuck which I fix from time to time. so the day or day and a half with no food was unlikely.
I do understand that there are many factors that could have contributed to the bleaching of several sps colonies and it may just be a coincidence of timing of when the med was introduced into the tank? but the fact is that the med was the only addition at the time of the bleaching and all else has been running as usual. I test every month to confirm or more frequently when corals tell me something is going on.
testing right after the bleaching event showed slight imbalance to no3 but nothing drastic enough to write home to mama about
Po4 was higher than normal but i attribute this to the bryopsis die off and has since normalized as i added back my GFO reactor after treatment.anyway, i though I would share my experience...
as for bryopsis... most is gone after a little over a month of the treatement but not all. the small pieced I see are on the wall of my sump that are less than 1/2" and where the biggest clump was appears to be completely gone but I manually removed the majority there. hope this helps.
coralcruze
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2014
- Messages
- 902
- Reaction score
- 254
only other thing I can add is that there were no other additions to the tanks livestock. no new corals and no new fish or critters were added.
Ok thats a bit scary! I didn't think that I was using a product that could have been made by a. differant sources and b. exipient used is not always the same.
if it helps I purchsed from the same online source that the OP purchased from in the first few posts in this thread.
as for conditions used... My tank is a mature 8 years old and bI have been in the hobby for 18 years so most of my corals came into this tank from previouse build. I would not have started any meds of any kind if my params are as close to perfect as they can possibly be. so I will state some params as close to what I remember them to be if that helps.
1. temp 77-78
2. ph 8.2-8.3
3. alk 10-10.5
4. cal 500
5. po4 .03-.08
6. No3 5 ppm
my lights Kessil ap700's have been running with the same setting for nearly 3 years.
my waterchanges are automated using apex at 2 cups a day for stability using instant ocean
my feeding is automated using apex DOS at about 7 ml x 3 times daily... the same type food used for the past 5 years
my alk and cal replenishment is Randy Holms Farly's old recipe I have been using now for the past 7-8 years
my vodka dosing is the same with slight increase of 5>>>7 ml daily over the course of a year. the last time I increased a ml was 6 months ago.
only other item I dose is amino and that's the same (acro power)
corals were all heathy and doing perfectly prior to dosing the meds with no bryopsis in the main display that I can see. turf algae has been observed for over 10 years but has never out competed the corals or caused any effect except visual appearance.
only corals not completely perfect were a meat coral and a cyanerina. Those are both actually doing better now.
At first I thought that maybe my vodka dosing was the cause somehow but I no longer think this was the case. then I thought the doser didn't deliver the proper amount of food but then remembered this occured befor with food getting stuck which I fix from time to time. so the day or day and a half with no food was unlikely.
I do understand that there are many factors that could have contributed to the bleaching of several sps colonies and it may just be a coincidence of timing of when the med was introduced into the tank? but the fact is that the med was the only addition at the time of the bleaching and all else has been running as usual. I test every month to confirm or more frequently when corals tell me something is going on.
testing right after the bleaching event showed slight imbalance to no3 but nothing drastic enough to write home to mama about
anyway, i though I would share my experience...
as for bryopsis... most is gone after a little over a month of the treatement but not all. the small pieced I see are on the wall of my sump that are less than 1/2" and where the biggest clump was appears to be completely gone but I manually removed the majority there. hope this helps.
Yes, something happened, no doubt, but considering hundreds of cases of Fluconazole use without reporting similar side effects, attributing the same damage to Fluconazole that everyone used is difficult. On the other hand, coral bleaching also occurs due to other causes, especially oxidative stress, and there is no evidence that Fluconazole causes oxidative stress due to its mechanism of action.
Best regards
Similar threads
