Bryopsis in frag tank....Any ideas?

[swannyson7]

I have a 16"x16"x8" frag tank plumbed into a common sump with my DT and I'm constantly battling bryopsis in the frag tank. My DT is algae free and my PO4 is measuring 0.02 on a Hanna calorimeter. Lighting on the frag tank is provided by twelve 3 watt crees (6 cool white & 6 royal blue). For flow, I have a Mag3 supplying the tank through a fan tip of Locline, with one maxijet 600 below the frag rack to stir up detritus, and one MJ600 above the rack. Inside the frag tank there is a black oscellaris and a 6-line wrasse. To control PO4, I'm running Rowaphos in a reactor, chaeto in my fuge, and WM Ecobak. The frag rack is made out of black acrylic with 3/8" holes drilled, which unfortunately seems to be blocking flow in my tank. I've tried raising my Magnesium levels to kill off the algae which worked for a short period of time, but as soon as the Mg leveled off, it started growing again. Despite the amount of flow, I still seem to be getting some buildup of detritus on the rack because the flow pattern of the MJs just isn't broad enough. Anyone have any ideas to help rid the bryopsis beyond removing the acrylic frag racks and using eggcrate? I like the clean look af the acrylic instead of eggcrate, but lately it's not looking so "clean." I keep rotating frags into racks in the DT for the tangs to pick at the algae (I know tangs don't usually eat bryopsis, but it has feathery tips and my sailfin can't get enough of it) and it defeats the whole purpose of the frag tank preventing a cluttered mess in the DT. Any suggestions???

 

[fsu1dolfan]

I am actually dealing with a small spot of some bryopsis in my DT. So far manual picking and raising my mag up with Tech M seems to be doing the trick. Are you using Tech M?

 

[swannyson7]

I am actually dealing with a small spot of some bryopsis in my DT. So far manual picking and raising my mag up with Tech M seems to be doing the trick. Are you using Tech M?

Yeah, I tried raising Mg with the BRS stuff, but it didn't put a dent in it. I've read that it's an additive in the Tech M that does the trick, but I figured I would give it a try seeing as I already had it. Since then, I got the Tech M and raised my mag to around 1650 and held it there for a week. It killed off the bryopsis in my frag tank and I siphoned out all the detritus I could find in the tank, but it was back as soon as my mag returned to the normal 1350 I usually keep it at.

 

[fsu1dolfan]

Yeah, I tried raising Mg with the BRS stuff, but it didn't put a dent in it. I've read that it's an additive in the Tech M that does the trick, but I figured I would give it a try seeing as I already had it. Since then, I got the Tech M and raised my mag to around 1650 and held it there for a week. It killed off the bryopsis in my frag tank and I siphoned out all the detritus I could find in the tank, but it was back as soon as my mag returned to the normal 1350 I usually keep it at.

I think the key is holding there for a lot longer than a week. Here check out this thread - lot of people talking about a month plus works. https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/general-reef-discussions/57646-desperate-bryopsis-problem.html

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

I also have a flow issue do to acrylic Frag racks. I was forced to put a MP-40 (ReefCrest 80%) below the Frag racks in a 24X24X8 17 gallon FT to overcome the restrictions (visible on the back right of the tank) - Works well now.

I was able to beat a bout of Bryopsis by using a multi-pronged approach. LNS compliments of carbon dosing (Vinegar and Kalk in ATO), MB-7 and raising Mg to 1600 using Kent Tech-M. I also run Hi-cap GFO and ROX 0.8 continuously, but the Bryopsis survived anyway, even with PO4 levels at undetectable with a a Hanna colormeter.

I can't be certain if one of, or the combination were responsible in killing the Bryopsis, but at least it's gone. I used the Kent Tech-M brand of Mg. As you're probably aware - It's suspected that it's not actually the Mg that causes the algae to die off, rather an ancillary ingredient found only in the Kent brand.

 

[swannyson7]

WOW! 3 months! It all seemed to die off in a few days, so I thought I was good to go. I don't want to risk bleaching everything out with the high mag levels, so I might just plug the drain on the frag tank overflow and put a hang on back skimmer so I can dose it by itself if it's going to take that long. Thanks for the link!

 

[swannyson7]

I also have a flow issue do to acrylic Frag racks. I was forced to put a MP-40 (ReefCrest 80%) below the Frag racks in a 24X24X8 17 gallon FT to overcome the restrictions (visible on the back right of the tank) - Works well now.

I was able to beat a bout of Bryopsis by using a multi-pronged approach. LNS compliments of carbon dosing (Vinegar and Kalk in ATO), MB-7 and raising MAG to 1600 using Kent Tech-M.

I can't be certain if one of, or the combination were responsible in killing the Bryopsis, but at least it's gone. I used the Kent Tech-M brand of Mg. As you're probably aware - It's suspected that it's not actually the Mg that causes the algae to die off, rather an ancillary ingredient found only in the Kent brand.

I top off with Kalk, but don't add the vinegar to supersaturate it. An MP40 is a whole lot of flow for a tank that size....I thought the 2 MJ600s would be overkill in my tank considering its only about 9 gallons, but it's just sharp streams of current. They seem to be blasting some frags too much while others look like they're sitting in stagnant water. I'm thinking about swapping out the Mjs for some Koralia Nanos. Does anyone know if they have a nice broad flow pattern like the larger Koralias?

 

[fsu1dolfan]

It's still crazy to me that no company was worked on figuring out the ingredient in Tech M that takes Bryopsis out....this would be a huge seller especially if it could be used with no ill effects on the tank.

I had a nano Koralia and it's not as broad of a flow pattern. I would probably shoot it up towards the surface and try to create a wave pushing back down.

 

[swannyson7]

It's still crazy to me that no company was worked on figuring out the ingredient in Tech M that takes Bryopsis out....this would be a huge seller especially if it could be used with no ill effects on the tank.

I had a nano Koralia and it's not as broad of a flow pattern. I would probably shoot it up towards the surface and try to create a wave pushing back down.

I know, right?!? I'd buy some. I can't really angle a powerhead upwards because it's a rimless tank and the water level sits about 1/2" from the top. :squigglemouth: Anyone have any suggestions for a smaller powerhead with broad flow?

 

[CalmSeasQuest]

....I thought the 2 MJ600s would be overkill in my tank considering its only about 9 gallons, but it's just sharp streams of current. They seem to be blasting some frags too much while others look like they're sitting in stagnant water. I'm thinking about swapping out the Mjs for some Koralia Nanos. Does anyone know if they have a nice broad flow pattern like the larger Koralias?

I initially tried 2 EVO 1400s, but it wasn't enough and they kept seizing due to calcium deposits. I agree an MP-40 sounds like major overkill for a 17 gallon tank, but in this tank with the density of the racks - That's what it took. The Vortech doesn't actually "blow" on the corals, it surges the water column from beneath the racks throughout the tank and up through any open holes in the Frag racks. I also run a small wave (pulse mode) for a few hours a day to provide some variance.

 

[nixer]

have you guys considered a hydor flow deflector
or even modding the maxijet output and flatening it out some to give it more of a spread

 

[swannyson7]

have you guys considered a hydor flow deflector

Will these fit on a maxijet? Also, have you ever used one? I'm afraid calcium deposits will seize it up pretty quickly

 

[swannyson7]

I'm also a bit worried that when it startes angling the flow upwards it will cause some splashing. The frag tank is only 8" tall and the water level is about 1/2" from the rim of the tank due to the design of the overflow. With the frag racks, my powerhead is only sitting about 3" from the top of the water

 

[fsu1dolfan]

Will these fit on a maxijet? Also, have you ever used one? I'm afraid calcium deposits will seize it up pretty quickly

Yes this will work and probably a good idea for some random flow. I have used one for about 2 years and then it was time for a new one. It takes some time before you need a new one...also a little vinegar bath will extend the life too!

 

[fsu1dolfan]

I'm also a bit worried that when it startes angling the flow upwards it will cause some splashing. The frag tank is only 8" tall and the water level is about 1/2" from the rim of the tank due to the design of the overflow. With the frag racks, my powerhead is only sitting about 3" from the top of the water

How low can you place the maxijet? Anyway to extend the tube down and then attach the deflector?

 

[nixer]

Will these fit on a maxijet? Also, have you ever used one? I'm afraid calcium deposits will seize it up pretty quickly

yes i have one i tried out it works, you have to clean the inside.
you could also try some of those small hydor or sicce pumps.
or even thought of something like this setup Make Your Aquarium an Endless Aquarium (DIY AQUARIUM - OTHER)

 

[swannyson7]

How low can you place the maxijet? Anyway to extend the tube down and then attach the deflector?

It's resiting on the frag rack. The racks fill the entire tank, so it doesn't give me much in the way of options for placement of the powerheads. Here's a couple pics from when I first made the frag racks to show the setup:

 

[swannyson7]

yes i have one i tried out it works, you have to clean the inside.
you could also try some of those small hydor or sicce pumps.
or even thought of something like this setup Make Your Aquarium an Endless Aquarium (DIY AQUARIUM - OTHER)

I can put one on the powerhead below the rack without a problem, but even the setup in that link would be impossible with the current rack setup. I suppose I could cut a couple notches in the acrylic, but if I had to do that, I'd probably just make new frag racks. I might just shorten the acrylic rods I used as legs to drop the entire rack and that would give me more options for flow. The tank is somewaht underlit, only using 12 crees with 70 degree optics, so I'm afraid if I drop the racks it won't be enough light for the SPS frags

 

[nixer]

I can put on on the powerhead below th rack without a problem, but even the setup in that link would be impossible with the current rack setup. I suppose I could cut a couple notches in the acrylic, but if I had to do that, I'd probably just make new frag racks. I might just shorten the acrylic rods I used as legs to drop the entire rack and that would give me more options for flow. The tank is somewaht underlit, only using 12 crees with 70 degree optics, so I'm afraid if I drop the racks it won't be enough light for the SPS frags

couldnt you make it where it would fit between the legs.

 

[fsu1dolfan]

Wow that picture helps to clarify what we are talking about now. The room avaliable is tight for some of the things we have been suggesting. Do you have to have a spare MP10 lying around??