bubble gum digi turning white

[92Miata]

Move it to lower light.

Feed More, Skim less.

I, also,have a bleached out bubblegum digi. They really don't seem to like a lot of light.

 

[jose hernandez]

how do i dose it

 

[jose hernandez]

so run the skimmer 12 hours only ?

 

[minus9]

Are you using any media that pulls PO4? Refugium with chaeto? If so, take them offline until you read so phosphate. As mentioned earlier, in new tanks, it takes a while for the rocks and substrate to absorb phosphate and release it. It's a very slow process, especially if you're using dry rock, then it takes longer.

 

[jose hernandez]

only a bag carbon and my skimmer along with 2 filter socks no fuge or phosphate reactor

 

[jose hernandez]

i have the apex controller and wanted to program my skimmer to turn on when my lights go off then turn off when they come on dont know how never was good with programming lol

 

[TexasTodd]

Can you get a close up pic?

 

[blasterman]

I have a rapidly growing bubble gum frag in one of my tanks, and I agree on lighting. Unlike my german blues, which want levels of PAR you can measure with a geiger counter, the bubble gum wants to be further down.

Also, you guys pushing the OP to increase nutrient levels haven't asked how the rest of his tank is doing. If all his other corals are fine why the moronic advice to adjust nutrient levels? Last thing a SPS keeper should do is make global adjustments to tank ecology because one coral doesn't look pretty enough for you.

 

[jose hernandez]

Other corals are doing great not gonna go crazy over it gonna ride it out worst case or doesn’t pull through just get another piece and try it again

 

[minus9]

Do you have a FTS? Pics of your other sps?

 

[ScottB]

0 phosphates via an API test is one thing. But if Hanna ULR is consistently giving zeros then you are eventually going to end up with a tank full of SPS skeletons served up with a side of dinoflagellates.

 

[minus9]

0 phosphates via an API test is one thing. But if Hanna ULR is consistently giving zeros then you are eventually going to end up with a tank full of SPS skeletons served up with a side of dinoflagellates.

That was the point I was getting to. High light, high alk (yes, 8.3 can be considered high in this case) and zero PO4 are a sure fire way of killing sps. The other sps may not exhibit signs yet, but any newcomers that may already be stressed will certainly deteriorate quickly. And I certainly don't think it's moronic to safely raise PO4 in this case. I'm not here to argue, just trying to help.

 

[jose hernandez]

So what do you recommend alk is steady 8.3 as far as phosphates I have not tried to do anything to raise them

 

[ScottB]

8.3 ALK is my number too so cannot argue with that.

I ran through so much PO4 that I ended up mixing my own. Link below. Once you hit 0 PO4, it takes a lot of it initially as it quickly gets bound to your rock. Once the rock gets saturated, you will barely be dosing at all. We all overshoot when ramping up, but it was never a problem.

Post dinos, I have to keep at least .07 or so to keep them down.

Amazon product ASIN B01N0FEAQK

 

[minus9]

So what do you recommend alk is steady 8.3 as far as phosphates I have not tried to do anything to raise them

It's easy, feed your fish more. If you want to keep sps, I find feeding your fish throughout the day one of the best things you can do. You feed fish, fish feed coral. Again, go slow, don't start dumping in a ton of food. Just start by feeding your fish every couple hours, small amounts each time.

 

[jose hernandez]

I’m feeding 2 cubes of frozen brine shrimp a day 1 cube first then the other a couple of hours later should i feed more someone mentioned I should run my skimmer 12hts a day not 24hr is that correct

 

[minus9]

I’m feeding 2 cubes of frozen brine shrimp a day 1 cube first then the other a couple of hours later should i feed more someone mentioned I should run my skimmer 12hts a day not 24hr is that correct

I would keep the skimmer going 24/7. I know 2 cubes seems like a lot, but it's really not. I also would add pellet food and nori if you have any herbivores? I feed LRS, TDO chromaboost pellets, NLS pellets and nori every day. My auto feeder feeds twice a day (loaded with NLS marine and algae blend) and I hand feed TDO 3 to 4 times, along with 3 or 4 feedings of LRS. I usually feed a 1/4 to a 1/2 sheet of nori each day.
My skimmer never stops unless I'm cleaning it or doing a water change, which is every two weeks now. I have a refugium with chaeto and I use a Kessil H160.
My nitrates are always less than 1ppm and are usually 0.5 to 0.2ppm, while my PO4 is usually around .1 to .13ppm
The key is heavy in and heavy out. You have to find that balance for your tank, so go slow and work your way up.

 

[jose hernandez]

i have 3 tangs yellow khole unicorn none of them eat seaweed sheets i put so i stopped but one thing is sure the yellow khole and my foxface go at the algae on the rocks and back wall of the tank as far as the tds chromaboost which size should i get also the nls and algae blend where do i get those

 

[TexasTodd]

Aside from current issues, you should really consider switching food. Frozen brine isn't very good.
Try some Larry's or Rods and maybe some Spectrum pellets.

 

[jose hernandez]

ill look into it