Build thread: Red Sea Reefer 250

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Gary Jaz

Gary Jaz

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Wonder what setting the Varios-4 should be set at? Currently have it on setting 4 of 5 which I assume is 80%.
 
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Gary Jaz

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So more adjustments to the aquascaping.

The shrimp has shrunk to about half volume, and I am just starting to see brown spots on the rocks: diatoms, right? The LFS thought I might be able to add a couple of clowns by this weekend but I'm not sure. Measured ammonia yesterday and it was still pretty low. Will check again tomorrow, along with nitrites, etc.

Question: what is best thing to put on the sides of the Hydras to shield the light when viewing from afar?

IMG_0833.jpg
 

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Wonder what setting the Varios-4 should be set at? Currently have it on setting 4 of 5 which I assume is 80%.

Does the Varios 4 need to be calibrated for the minimum and maximum flow of the tank or are you good to go right out of the box? I made that mistake with my Vectra S1 and after really reading the instructions had to calibrate it later on. Once calibrated the power setting should be accurate.
 
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Does the Varios 4 need to be calibrated for the minimum and maximum flow of the tank or are you good to go right out of the box? I made that mistake with my Vectra S1 and after really reading the instructions had to calibrate it later on. Once calibrated the power setting should be accurate.
No calibration mentioned in the sparse documentation. Good to go out of the box. I will get a flow meter if I get an Apex down the road.
 

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No calibration mentioned in the sparse documentation. Good to go out of the box. I will get a flow meter if I get an Apex down the road.

Perhaps you should ask this question in the Reef Octopus or the General Equipment forum for a more definitive answer on the Varios 4 settings? Better safe than sorry! ;)
 
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Perhaps you should ask this question in the Reef Octopus or the General Equipment forum for a more definitive answer on the Varios 4 settings? Better safe than sorry! ;)

Ordered the Apex tonight, so I will know the actual flow soon.
 
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So it's been 2 weeks -1 day since I put in the shrimp and started adding the bacteria. The LFS said that by adding the bacteria the tank should cyle in 2 weeks vs 4. The shrimp has diminished considerably, but is still there (maybe 25% volume vs when I put it in the tank). Ammonia, phosphate, and nitrate tests tonight don't show much above zero (if that). My son expects us to get a pair of juvenile clowns tomorrow. Should I do it or hold off?
 
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So when I look at the tank from my desk or my couch I can see the underside of the Hydras. How can I block them? They are presently 9 inches from the water surface. Can I lower them if the plan is for LPS?

I am thinking I could cut some plastic rectangles, maybe 1-2 inches in height, and velcro them to the sides of each light. Would that work?
 

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So when I look at the tank from my desk or my couch I can see the underside of the Hydras. How can I block them? They are presently 9 inches from the water surface. Can I lower them if the plan is for LPS?

I am thinking I could cut some plastic rectangles, maybe 1-2 inches in height, and velcro them to the sides of each light. Would that work?

Try led diffusers. I got mine from 3dreefing.com. They help avoid the disco effect, blend the light better while blocking that underside view you mentioned. I have 3 of them mounted, last page of my build below has the pic.
 
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Try led diffusers. I got mine from 3dreefing.com. They help avoid the disco effect, blend the light better while blocking that underside view you mentioned. I have 3 of them mounted, last page of my build below has the pic.
Thank you Butuz, this looks like a good option. Any heat issues?
 
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So a lot of changes recently. Let the shrimp decay for 2 weeks while adding bacteria, then added a couple of baby gladiator clowns per LFS recommendation a couple of days ago. I feared the worse since I've had my arms and tools in the tank so much since adding water I imagined chemical death but they are feisty and hungry 3 days in. Decided to remove what remained of the shrimp. Also added a few crabs and copepods.

At the same time, added a couple of live rocks covered in coraline algae3 days ago, then added 2 more today.

I haven't detected ammonia yet and have tested 5 times in 17 days (see pic). Finally see some nitrates tonight (see pic). Is it possible that I missed the initial ammonia spike? Does the spike go away quickly?

Also started the Hydra lights using a preset from David Saxby via the Signature Series on the AI website:

http://www.aquaillumination.com/signature/

I would like to learn how to shift the whole thing left without having to set each color species separately. Anyone know if this is possible?

IMG_0884.jpg


IMG_0888.jpg


IMG_0891.jpg
 
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I have Tunze 6055 controllable and I can’t tell it’s on, my sofa is a foot away from the end of the tank- the surface water ripples make more noise

I ordered the Tunze per your recommendation and the Nero. The Tunze is quiet, solid, Apex-able, directable, and cheaper, while the Nero is smaller but with a weak magnet so you can't really point it anywhere. I thought the AI app would be a plus since I like the AI Hyda app, but I didn't see any of the modes that the literature shows it has. I kept the Tunze.
 

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I ordered the Tunze per your recommendation and the Nero. The Tunze is quiet, solid, Apex-able, directable, and cheaper, while the Nero is smaller but with a weak magnet so you can't really point it anywhere. I thought the AI app would be a plus since I like the AI Hyda app, but I didn't see any of the modes that the literature shows it has. I kept the Tunze.

I’m contemplating a 2nd myself, I can’t really find a bad report on the Tunze gear, maybe the next size up to get a wider flow
 

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I ordered the Tunze per your recommendation and the Nero. The Tunze is quiet, solid, Apex-able, directable, and cheaper, while the Nero is smaller but with a weak magnet so you can't really point it anywhere. I thought the AI app would be a plus since I like the AI Hyda app, but I didn't see any of the modes that the literature shows it has. I kept the Tunze.

Sorry for the late reply but I just saw this post. Ai tells you that the Nero 5 can only be angled up to 15% and so far I have’t had an issue with the magnet on my 250.
 

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I set up my 250 the day after you started yours. I have the Ai Hydra 26’s and the Nero (one only). So far so good. My tank is not cycling the way you read about tho. I’ve had ammonia, nitrite and nitrate since day 8 at the same levels. Nothing is changing. I’m getting jealous of people with fish!
 

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I set up my 250 the day after you started yours. I have the Ai Hydra 26’s and the Nero (one only). So far so good. My tank is not cycling the way you read about tho. I’ve had ammonia, nitrite and nitrate since day 8 at the same levels. Nothing is changing. I’m getting jealous of people with fish!

Please be patient, I lost my first 2 fish because of an ammonia spike and had a 2 week setback. I added two beautiful ORA Gladiators on Friday after triple checking my water for the past week and 2 water changes after the first incident. It will happen for you and when it does you will enjoy the fruits of your labor!


4D4A726D-2154-4309-9689-4663421B4EA8.jpeg

55604816-E8AB-4AA2-BBE2-CBC9CF6C2E06.jpeg
 
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I ordered the Tunze per your recommendation and the Nero. The Tunze is quiet, solid, Apex-able, directable, and cheaper, while the Nero is smaller but with a weak magnet so you can't really point it anywhere. I thought the AI app would be a plus since I like the AI Hyda app, but I didn't see any of the modes that the literature shows it has. I kept the Tunze.
@Gary Jaz what do you think of the Tunze? Do you have it connected to your Apex?
 
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@Gary Jaz what do you think of the Tunze? Do you have it connected to your Apex?
I like the Tunze. It's quiet and the controller is simple to use. I have not hooked it up to the Apex and now I don't see a real reason to. I tried the Nero too briefly and returned it. In hindsight, I think if the magnet issue was resolved, I would go with the Nero because of its smaller size.
 

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