Building a new sump need advice
- Thread starter DEWreefing
- Start date
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Maybe it's just me, but I'd say the distance between the baffles of the sponge filter rack and the two over-under baffles before the return look way too close together. I have about 2 1/4" to 2.5" between these baffles, and its nice to be able to get your hand in there sometimes.Alright guys just ordered all my acrylic and some extra. So I have a design I would like some feed back on what could be improved.
The sump will be 48X20X16
Bubble trap 4" section
Total of 4 - 4" filter socks 6" section
Skimmer 14" section
Double Sponge tower 4"
Return section 7"
Ato reservoir section will be 12X20X16
As others have said, I'm not sure why you would really need sponges after socks and a skimmer, but the rack could always be used for carbon or something if you get sick of cleaning the sponges. Just a suggestion here: I think you could really accomplish the same thing with this design and save a little silicon work and it'd be just as effective, and would give you plenty of space to get your hand in there (light blue lines below).
OP
OP
DEWreefing
Well-Known Member
Interesting idea so lose the last over baffle?Maybe it's just me, but I'd say the distance between the baffles of the sponge filter rack and the two over-under baffles before the return look way too close together. I have about 2 1/4" to 2.5" between these baffles, and its nice to be able to get your hand in there sometimes.
As others have said, I'm not sure why you would really need sponges after socks and a skimmer, but the rack could always be used for carbon or something if you get sick of cleaning the sponges. Just a suggestion here: I think you could really accomplish the same thing with this design and save a little silicon work and it'd be just as effective, and would give you plenty of space to get your hand in there (light blue lines below).
The idea is just the blue lines I drew and not any of the original green ones in the photo Essentially the water flows over the leftmost baffle, then through your 1 or two sponge trays and then under the right baffle. Your original design has over-under & over-under (4 total). I’m not sure u need all that if u make an over under (2 total). Over-under is all I think u need to keep bubbles out, many commercial designs use only an over-under. And you will have enough room to silicon or glue it on both sides, which might be difficult to do well with tight spacing (or u might end up only getting them half secured which seems worse)
OP
OP
DEWreefing
Well-Known Member
They will be welded with weld on 4 debating on using 3 8X4X4 marine pur blocks instead
Greg P
Valuable Member
I agree about loosing the sponge area, and the larger baffle spacing for access.
In your pics your drains go to a 'bubble trap', but I'll assume you meant 'detritus trap'.
That's how mine is setup;
Trap, overflows through sock into the skimmer chamber, over-under-over trap, return.
I have a backup heater standing up in my detritus trap, and my main 3 heaters are standing up in my bubble trap. Because my baffles are so tall I can use Eheims, and they are never dry during any maintenance, nor are they totally submerged so no chance of internal moisture.
Also, 1 x 7" filter sock has the same surface area as 3-1/2 x 4" socks. Consider pushing your sock baffle over a bit and run 2 x 7" socks. This will more than make up for the loss of a sponge or floss, and you'll only have to change half as many socks, but have the same surface area as 7 x 4" socks.
My skimmer is on a stand and my all baffles are as absolutely tall as possible without flooding during a power-out event. This allows me to have so much volume in my sump that I can perform a WC without removing any DT water.
This tall skimmer setup may not be possible under your stand. Just what I've done in my sump room.
In your pics your drains go to a 'bubble trap', but I'll assume you meant 'detritus trap'.
That's how mine is setup;
Trap, overflows through sock into the skimmer chamber, over-under-over trap, return.
I have a backup heater standing up in my detritus trap, and my main 3 heaters are standing up in my bubble trap. Because my baffles are so tall I can use Eheims, and they are never dry during any maintenance, nor are they totally submerged so no chance of internal moisture.
Also, 1 x 7" filter sock has the same surface area as 3-1/2 x 4" socks. Consider pushing your sock baffle over a bit and run 2 x 7" socks. This will more than make up for the loss of a sponge or floss, and you'll only have to change half as many socks, but have the same surface area as 7 x 4" socks.
My skimmer is on a stand and my all baffles are as absolutely tall as possible without flooding during a power-out event. This allows me to have so much volume in my sump that I can perform a WC without removing any DT water.
This tall skimmer setup may not be possible under your stand. Just what I've done in my sump room.
Greg P
Valuable Member
I used acrylic for my sock holder and glass strips to support it.
If the acrylic has no plastic film on it, cover both sides with masking tape to prevent shavings gumming up the blade.
Drill a pilot hole and then cut the circle out with a jigsaw and a fairly coarse blade
If the acrylic has no plastic film on it, cover both sides with masking tape to prevent shavings gumming up the blade.
Drill a pilot hole and then cut the circle out with a jigsaw and a fairly coarse blade
Greg P
Valuable Member
I can't for the life of me find a pic of the sock holder but these pics show the glass strips.
2 vertical pieces (1 siliconed to the detritus trap baffle on the left and 1 to a 'baffle' piece about 2-1/2" tall on the right)
2 horizontal pieces (1 each front and back)
2 vertical pieces (1 siliconed to the detritus trap baffle on the left and 1 to a 'baffle' piece about 2-1/2" tall on the right)
2 horizontal pieces (1 each front and back)
Greg P
Valuable Member
The baffle piece on the right is about 1/4" taller than the top of the acrylic. This keeps water going through the sock but allows it to overflow below the tank lip if the sock becomes completely plugged.
Goodair
Valuable Member
I agree about loosing the sponge area, and the larger baffle spacing for access.
In your pics your drains go to a 'bubble trap', but I'll assume you meant 'detritus trap'.
That's how mine is setup;
Trap, overflows through sock into the skimmer chamber, over-under-over trap, return.
I have a backup heater standing up in my detritus trap, and my main 3 heaters are standing up in my bubble trap. Because my baffles are so tall I can use Eheims, and they are never dry during any maintenance, nor are they totally submerged so no chance of internal moisture.
Also, 1 x 7" filter sock has the same surface area as 3-1/2 x 4" socks. Consider pushing your sock baffle over a bit and run 2 x 7" socks. This will more than make up for the loss of a sponge or floss, and you'll only have to change half as many socks, but have the same surface area as 7 x 4" socks.
My skimmer is on a stand and my all baffles are as absolutely tall as possible without flooding during a power-out event. This allows me to have so much volume in my sump that I can perform a WC without removing any DT water.
This tall skimmer setup may not be possible under your stand. Just what I've done in my sump room.
Why are your fans over your socks? or is that adjustable?
Greg P
Valuable Member
A pair of PC fans. Scythe SFF21F and they're dead silent. Stand is eggcrate for now until I get around to making 1 out of acrylic
Greg P
Valuable Member
I prefer them where they are as they don't get wet when the pump is off.
They keep the chiller from running for many hours so I feel they are doing their job.
And correct me if I'm wrong but, isn't the point to blow directly on the water? I'm looking for evaporation, not looking to cool down the air in the return chamber, ya?
I tried a hanger over the return section but it sagged, and I have no room to go F-Back as the plumbing is in the way.
Every water change a large pump is put in the return section for water removal so I made the stand over sock.
And the stand keeps the sock from lifting.
It just all works for me.
In a perfect world I'd have a dedicated fan section !!
They keep the chiller from running for many hours so I feel they are doing their job.
And correct me if I'm wrong but, isn't the point to blow directly on the water? I'm looking for evaporation, not looking to cool down the air in the return chamber, ya?
I tried a hanger over the return section but it sagged, and I have no room to go F-Back as the plumbing is in the way.
Every water change a large pump is put in the return section for water removal so I made the stand over sock.
And the stand keeps the sock from lifting.
It just all works for me.
In a perfect world I'd have a dedicated fan section !!
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