Building remote filter cabinet. What can I do to make it better!

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pledosophy

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I am moving my sump into my garage for several reasons, but mostly because I am getting older and I need my tanks to be easier to work on. My display is a Waterbox 220, easiest to think of as a 180g. Similiar size.

My sump cabinet will be approx 6 feet wide, 6.5 feet tall, and 30 inches deep.

Besides a sump what would you want to include in the cabinet to make your life easier to take care of a tank long term?

Here is my plan and what I have done so far.

I will drill 4 holes from the inside wall to the garage to run the two drain lines, a return line, and have a hole for the wires/outlets that will still go to the tank (two powerheads that will connect to the APEX, they are high in the tank so they need to turn off for feed mode).

I insulated most of the garage, but have not done the door (east facing). So the cabinet will be fully insulated on all sides with an exhaust fan with a humidity sensor (basically a bathroom fan) that will vent outdoors. I have also installed an exhaust fan in the eves of the garage that vent outdoors. I will build a solar heater for the garage for the day times in the winter, but our temps generally do not dip below 40, and even then only for a few weeks a year, so my hope is adding an extra heater or two will keep the temps up.

I installed a stainless steel sink with a pull down faucet right next to where the cabinet will be. I will be able to pump water change water directly to the sink and use it for cleaning. I could not do a floor drain for a few rather lame reasons (old house) but this will be second best.

I plan to use this sink to setup up AWC with an Apex DOS. I will build a small water change station on wheels to go next to the cabinet out of two Brute trash cans. I plan to keep my Water change station pretty minimal for now with a capacity around 30g.

We had an electrician run two new outlets (4 plugs) over to where the cabinet will be. I plan to mount my Apex EB8's and all ballasts etc to the outside of the cabinet and have them plug in there. The lights for the display and my vortech MP40 will not run off the Apex as they have their own apps and the Vortech can be programmed for feed mode. The Vortech is low enough in the tank it is not a problem during 20% water changes and this gives me the redundancy of a third circuit.

I plan to make the cabinet out of 2x4's and plywood. The doors will have a latch to hold them closed. I will paint the interior of the cabinet with a Marine Boat paint for moisture. The entire cabinet will be insulated with foam board insulation, including under the sump to help with temperature control. I live in a mild climate but the floor is concrete and I would like to take the precaution.

Over the sump I will have a shelf with a 2 foot cube tank that I will plumb in as a second refugium, but I will plumb it in a way that it can also be used as a QT tank, or a frag tank if needed. I do have an extra light I can put above it.

That gives me about 4 feet by 4 feet of space in the cabinet right now that will be empty. Right now my idea is to put a larger Carbon/GFO reactor there mounted to the back wall, and use the space to hold any supplements that my auto dosers can dose into the display.

If I do end up needing to run a chiller I can drill the side of the cabinet and run the chiller externally, but I am hoping with the insulation and the tank being in the airconditioned house this will not be an issue. We live close to the beach and days above 90 are uncommon, but we do have them a few times a year. I believe I can combat with the air conditioned room the tank is in and fans.

If you read all of that, THANK YOU! If you have any ideas that I can do to make this better, I would love to hear them before I buy the wood next week. Really appreciate the feedback. I do have a good size budget left for the build. My priority is really making the tank easier to work on; as I get older tank maintenance is getting painful some days, but I don't want to hire it out just yet. I also travel quite a bit so having it be stable and easy would make my dive trips more fun and less worrisome.

Thanks in advance for your input.
 


Have you watched the BRS 360 series where Ryan set up a "10 year tank" in his house? His sump is in a separate room, and they go through the process of getting it all set up. It's a rather long watch (16 episodes close to an hour each) but it was very interesting and could provide some ideas you haven't thought of. Unfortunately the 10 year tank only lasted a few months as he decided to sell his house and relocated it to the BRS offices.
 
I will drill 4 holes from the inside wall to the garage to run the two drain lines, a return line, and have a hole for the wires/outlets that will still go to the tank
Smart! Also consider just picking a bay within the wall to use as essentially a conduit for all your plumbing and electrical!

Something like this is also an option to conceal any larger holes you need to make to reach in and work!

IMG_7857.png



So the cabinet will be fully insulated on all sides with an exhaust fan with a humidity sensor (basically a bathroom fan) that will vent outdoors. I have also installed an exhaust fan in the eves of the garage that vent outdoors.
A horticultural climate controller might be worth examining here; something to manage how much air is moved at any given time… it’ll pay for itself in electricity use over time!


That gives me about 4 feet by 4 feet of space in the cabinet right now that will be empty
Mangrove(s)?

I would love to hear them before I buy the wood next week.
Get a few 2x6s for the parts that are load bearing, then you can still climb on your shelving to do the inevitable plumbing leak fixes and equipment replacements!

We had an electrician run two new outlets (4 plugs) over to where the cabinet will be. I plan to mount my Apex EB8's and all ballasts etc to the outside of the cabinet and have them plug in there
Possibly put these in a vented enclosure, and/or install simple automated fire suppression here!

IMG_7858.png


It sounds like a big project, with a lot of thought into it! I like it!
 
Get a few 2x6s for the parts that are load bearing, then you can still climb on your shelving to do the inevitable plumbing leak fixes and equipment replacements!


It sounds like a big project, with a lot of thought into it! I like it!
2x6's? How fat do you think I am LOL.

It's a bit funny how everything in this hobby is overbuilt. The stand for my 180g was built with 1"x2"s and that thing has been up for 15 years (with someone else now).

I do plan to frame it with 2x4's which is also ridiculous, but it just happens to be the right size to make the perfect space for the insulation.

Good call on the horticulture remote. The exhaust fan has it built in for humidity, but it could be very useful for back up fans if the tank gets hot and I am not home or away from the APEX to receive an alert.
 
2x6's? How fat do you think I am LOL
Hey now, I’m blaming the tanks on this one! —I’m imagining the 2’ cube, plus a bonus tank or two, plus you standing precariously on the longest unsupported span! — a human can easily double their body weight during movement; dynamic loads and all that!

It's a bit funny how everything in this hobby is overbuilt. The stand for my 180g was built with 1"x2"s and that thing has been up for 15 years (with someone else now).
It’s all a matter of construction!

My 180g’s stand is all 2x4 and 1x4; but built in such a way that the maximum unsupported span is 20”!


I do plan to frame it with 2x4's which is also ridiculous, but it just happens to be the right size to make the perfect space for the insulation.
Hey; they’re cheap! And they do indeed provide a standard wall bay!

— besides, it lets you use the top of the closet as more storage without worrying about weight!

Good call on the horticulture remote. The exhaust fan has it built in for humidity, but it could be very useful for back up fans if the tank gets hot and I am not home or away from the APEX to receive an alert.

There are some designed for use with supplementary CO2 which have a “fuzzy logic” mode:

I’m not going to explain this well, but it basically makes the horticultural controller stretch out intervals between any ventilation activity a bit longer, letting it go slightly past your set thresholds for temp and humidity to minimize the number of daily air exchanges, thus wasted CO2 (in a horticultural application), and power to constantly adjust temp/humidity (in your application)!

image.jpg
 

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