Garage/Remote Sump Lessons to Share?

[ariellemermaid]

I’m setting up an Innovative Marine 200 EXT on a shared wall with a garage. Having had a 6’ tank for quite a few years now, I really want a remote sump + ATO/mixing/dosing, etc.

I live in an area that saw single digit (F) temperatures this winter and summer temps in the 90’s (outside of the garage, anyway). My plan would be to install a large mini-split, insulate the garage doors, and perhaps build an insulated cabinet if necessary. However, the cheapest mini split quote so far is $7000- roughly 60% equipment, 40% labor. It seems excessive, but when all the HVAC companies are coming back in the same range, I guess it is what it is.

Before I take that leap and start drilling holes in my walls, anyone out there have any tips and pitfalls to share? Issues regarding plumbing, moisture, condensation, temperature, etc.? I’ve been finding some questions on here, but not a lot of thorough builds and retrospective analyses. One thing about the 200 EXT is that it will basically be impossible to go back to a cabinet sump- the install location will not allow the required side-loading of a full-sized sump after filling the tank. Any suggestions appreciated!

 

[allof fish]

I’m setting up an Innovative Marine 200 EXT on a shared wall with a garage. Having had a 6’ tank for quite a few years now, I really want a remote sump + ATO/mixing/dosing, etc.

I live in an area that saw single digit (F) temperatures this winter and summer temps in the 90’s (outside of the garage, anyway). My plan would be to install a large mini-split, insulate the garage doors, and perhaps build an insulated cabinet if necessary. However, the cheapest mini split quote so far is $7000- roughly 60% equipment, 40% labor. It seems excessive, but when all the HVAC companies are coming back in the same range, I guess it is what it is.

Before I take that leap and start drilling holes in my walls, anyone out there have any tips and pitfalls to share? Issues regarding plumbing, moisture, condensation, temperature, etc.? I’ve been finding some questions on here, but not a lot of thorough builds and retrospective analyses. One thing about the 200 EXT is that it will basically be impossible to go back to a cabinet sump- the install location will not allow the required side-loading of a full-sized sump after filling the tank. Any suggestions appreciated!

One thing I’d say it would be much cheaper if you built a small insulated sump room yourself or built out your garage that way if that’s soemthing you’d want to do. I would definitely make sure the plumbing is top notch with the correct sizes for drains and returns. I personally would go extra large sump as well. Make sure you have a large enough pump to accommodate the head height as well. If you are building a mini room out definitely install some fans/ac which will help with moisture and heater as well

 

[Rob A]

Rubbermaid stock tanks are perfect for remote sumps. They are by nature insulated (polypropylene is a poor heat conductor) and have a lot of room for anything that you will want to put in them. Check out my build thread it might give you some ideas to work with.

 

[jonsreef2reef]

The thing I'd separate before spending the $7k: a mini-split buys you temperature, not humidity. In heat mode it doesn't dehumidify at all — so the coldest months, when your walls are coldest and condensing fastest, are exactly when the HVAC is doing nothing about the moisture. Dry mode helps in summer but it isn't really a substitute for a dedicated unit. I'd price a standalone dehumidifier plumbed to a drain as a separate line item rather than assuming the mini-split covers both. And before any of it, lid the sump and the mixing station — cutting evaporation at the source is the cheapest lever you've got and it shrinks everything downstream.

Other thing nobody warned me about: rust. I lived and did this in the Philly area and salt creep traveled a lot further than the splash zone — hardware, a tools (nice ones!), screws I'd never thought about. If the garage still stores actual garage things, it's worth deciding now what stays and what moves, and going stainless or plastic on anything you fasten in there. Could just be my setup, but I'd assume anything steel within a few feet of the sump is on the clock.