Bullet proof float switch & solenoid for line pressure driven ATO

Ecotech Marine

ScottB

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Float switch Omega Engineering LV-1201:


i never used a solenoid with it. I did use a solenoid with a tap water cooling system and temperature controller I was very happy with. I'll post it later. I still have it attached to my cold water line in the basement.
Thought I should move this over to a more appropriate venue.

Randy, I am thinking your setup is different than mine, so if this goose chase becomes nonsensical, I can figure it out. Just wanted advice on some quality components versus the retail garbage available off the shelf.

I had a flood last night via my ATO. My redundancy components failed. (Serially.)

My basement RODI runs line pressure to a float valve in my display sump. It is allegedly rated for line pressure applications and has worked well for years. To back that up, I had an optical sensor driven solenoid that had worked well until this weekend when it failed closed. It was cheap junk & I removed it. The float valve failed to properly seat last night (FO Murphy). APEX notified me but (stupidly) I use my phone as my alarm clock. Notifications disabled. Finally, my 9-volt battery operated alarm sounded.

I have no room for a reservoir in proximity to the display so my thought was a quality float valve or float valve solenoid combination. Thoughts? Prayers?

PSA: The Auto Aqua "marriage saver" optical solenoid should only be installed only in completely dry locations. Salt creep will dissolve the mechanicals.
 

Biglew11

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Does your rodiunit have a booster pump?
If so adding this shut off solenoid could be an answer.

The valve works on 24 volts and is closed when there is no power going to it. using float switches to break power going to the switch will shut off the flow.
If you're good at diy, you can figure out other ways to either use the apex 24v ports and breakout box to turn it off. Or using other 24v power supplies and switches to turn it off.

I've been using this in place of the auto shut off valve for my rodi for about 3 weeks now, so I can't really say anything about longevity yet. I have it installed at the just before the inlet of my unit so it shuts the whole unit down, No waste production when I'm not making water.
 
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ScottB

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Does your rodiunit have a booster pump?
If so adding this shut off solenoid could be an answer.

The valve works on 24 volts and is closed when there is no power going to it. using float switches to break power going to the switch will shut off the flow.
If you're good at diy, you can figure out other ways to either use the apex 24v ports and breakout box to turn it off. Or using other 24v power supplies and switches to turn it off.

I've been using this in place of the auto shut off valve for my rodi for about 3 weeks now, so I can't really say anything about longevity yet. I have it installed at the just before the inlet of my unit so it shuts the whole unit down, No waste production when I'm not making water.
I don't have a booster pump as the psi into RODI is 60 already. My RODI has a pressure based auto shutoff that seems to function OK. I do have some spare 24v APEX ports so that is an option. Just have to scribble it out on a napkin a few times. Thank you for the idea.

I really want the components to be built for a harsh marine environment. I can be a little messy in my sump sometimes.
 

SteveMM62Reef

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Get a ATO that has an Optical Sensor, clean the Sensor, on a schedule. Such as when you’re changing water, cleaning skimmer cup, etc. It only takes a couple seconds to go over it with a soft toothbrush. I never have my reservoir, bigger than what it would take to do harm. I absolutely wouldn’t hook directly up to my RO/DI.
 
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ScottB

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Get a ATO that has an Optical Sensor, clean the Sensor, on a schedule. Such as when you’re changing water, cleaning skimmer cup, etc. It only takes a couple seconds to go over it with a soft toothbrush. I never have my reservoir, bigger than what it would take to do harm. I absolutely wouldn’t hook directly up to my RO/DI.
I like the Tunze setup with optical AND float. Installed it a few times for others.

I will look to see if the Tunze pump can push from the basement. I have no room for a reservoir where the display is located.
 
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ScottB

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Here is a pic of the optical sensor driven solenoid shut-off. The optical part of it still works. But the solenoid got some salt spray/creep in it and it failed closed, shutting down my ATO flow. So I had to remove it and a few days later my float valve failed to seat properly.

You will note that the top of the case is NOT sealed. If you choose to go with this XP-Aqua unit, do not install it in the sump like I did. The internal mechanicals will corrode and fail.

IMG-5062.jpg
 

SteveMM62Reef

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I like the Tunze setup with optical AND float. Installed it a few times for others.

I will look to see if the Tunze pump can push from the basement. I have no room for a reservoir where the display is located.
If it won’t push the water up that far, go on Amazon and buy a Fountain Pump. If need to be, put the pumps in series. BTW Amazon also has Splitter Cables. 5.5 mm x 2.1 mm DC Power is what you’ll need if using 12 volt.
 
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