Bye-bye LEDs hello mh!!!!!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Troylee
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Very true Gary very true... Great advice also just kind if bummed man honestly.... I feel like I ripped myself off when I moved my coral over I went from diy LEDs to a phoenix 14k with 2 blue+ and 2 purple+ t5s which is a awesome combo and the thrill was gone man lol... I know it will come back they just have to readjust to the new light just found it shocking man...the last thing I want to do is give LEDs a bad rap there not really bad at all I'm cool with them just want to improve on them if I can... Maybe a couple reds and greens are the answer I don't know I would have to experiment with it....
 
Sadly this thread reflects the misconceptions that happen when people dont take the time to look at
the wonderful amount of spectral data that cree supplys with the leds.
Every possible spectrum that you could want is shown to you in crees paperwork.
You need to read and look at the color spectrum you are trying to achieve.
You can build a spectrum any way you want.
They
are simply the most wonderful thing to ever come into this hobby......period
Funny thing is if you compare a 14k pheonix to the coolwhite/rb mix the specs
for the leds cover a more diverse spectrum.
Please take a little time and look at sanjays charts and then look at the cree charts
any you can with very little effort copy you mh spectrum to a tie.....
A par meter really helps because of the power of the RBs they will fool you with there power.
even the cheaper leds are better then mh.

LED TESTING pictures by redfishnc - Photobucket

here is the best thing you can read
 

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Sadly this thread reflects the misconceptions that happen when people dont take the time to look at
the wonderful amount of spectral data that cree supplys with the leds.
Every possible spectrum that you could want is shown to you in crees paperwork.
You need to read and look at the color spectrum you are trying to achieve.
You can build a spectrum any way you want.
They
are simply the most wonderful thing to ever come into this hobby......period
Funny thing is if you compare a 14k pheonix to the coolwhite/rb mix the specs
for the leds cover a more diverse spectrum.
Please take a little time and look at sanjays charts and then look at the cree charts
any you can with very little effort copy you mh spectrum to a tie.....
A par meter really helps because of the power of the RBs they will fool you with there power.
even the cheaper leds are better then mh.

LED TESTING pictures by redfishnc - Photobucket

here is the best thing you can read

I see the spectral charts finally in this thread. But I want to know why when you look at the coral under the LEDs and then look at them under the MH they look like different corals? You can have the LED in my opinion. I will stick with the MH and T5 combo!!!!
 
okay but explain this to me.....
mh to led looks sweet to awesome!!!!!
led to mh looks brown, boring, dull...
these happen instantly not over the course of a week while it is transitioning to the new light this is 30 seconds from one light source to another....
Sadly this thread reflects the misconceptions that happen when people dont take the time to look at
the wonderful amount of spectral data that cree supplys with the leds.
Every possible spectrum that you could want is shown to you in crees paperwork.
You need to read and look at the color spectrum you are trying to achieve.
You can build a spectrum any way you want.
They
are simply the most wonderful thing to ever come into this hobby......period
Funny thing is if you compare a 14k pheonix to the coolwhite/rb mix the specs
for the leds cover a more diverse spectrum.
Please take a little time and look at sanjays charts and then look at the cree charts
any you can with very little effort copy you mh spectrum to a tie.....
A par meter really helps because of the power of the RBs they will fool you with there power.
even the cheaper leds are better then mh.

LED TESTING pictures by redfishnc - Photobucket

here is the best thing you can read
 
Any coral that you are putting back under a radium/14k pheonix and it is brown has not been
under high enough par under leds.
The led setup will have higher par[mostly]in the blue area so it will still seem colorful under led.
Check your par for sps and it should be no less than 400 if you need them to look nice back under
your mh.....500/600 would even be better.
I have not seen any difference when some of my frags were put under radiums.
But i believe radium are the very much like most led setups.
Blue_LED_Comparison.jpg
LEDvPhoenixMH.jpg

check out the satronics a good way to get a little purple pop into your setup.
notice the chart with the 14k mh......
 
Last edited:
i just put my HQI MHs on my tank last night . WOW so much happier now .. i have a set of MHs for sale too with no ballast comes with 4 175 watt bulbs one is a 14K the other is a 20K nice set up if anyone is looking ..
 

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