Calling Current USA light owners... where you at?

Red_Beard

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I agree with you, small tank they are great. The actinic blues they put out when the lights are winding down are great and make stuff really pop. They have had no problems growing zoas, hammer, gsp, and a favia thats on the sandbed. I like them so much i built the light fixture holding my radions in my 75 to hold these on either side kind of like a hybrid fixture but current ic's instead of t5. When i take down the 30 they are going to be moved to the 75.
I haven't gotten to work with their customer service though as all their stuff so far has just worked. I haven't had any issues at all with any of the gear. I am running lights and a wavemaker on the loop system.
Sorry to hear about the clam :(
 

Willis19

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I use the rgbw % of this chart. Tank looks good,

E5E13419-31FD-459C-A8BA-A7B7D09481E1.jpeg
 

Susan Edwards

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Current USA Orbit Marine IC PRO LED Light Fixture 72 inch is what I have for my 125 gal. I have the 2 units on the longer brackets. Debating whether to add a third. Currently (haha) rebooting my poor tank. What light settings do you all use. I was told not to use green or red and low whites but am thinking that might not be right to get full spectrum. Also debating whether to lower the lights. Trouble is, then it would be hard to get in and clean. Also take 2 of us to lower as I can't get the middle one
20200125_215839_resized.jpg

Full light with blue 100% white 60-70% No green or red. Pics show brackets and set up. Below is lights turning down. No red or green
20200130_201707_resized.jpg
 

Sarah24!

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Hello,

From your pics, and I have used a lot of current usa, I’d suggest removing the brackets, and placing them on top of the tank as intended. I would also add the third light, give a more even spread, however only run the blue channel. There would be too much white light, and the blues will help with coral growth and color.
Since I use the step above yours, my blues are at 100, and whites at 30%. I don’t have near the blue tint you do but I can always change it. If I had mint at 70% whites I’d see no blues hardly at all, and I would literally cook all my corals. Your ic pros have less par and pur as the previous high end light. So raising them up higher is counter productive, plus they use a 90 degree lens instead of the more focused 60 degree in the prior version. I’d definitely keep the rgb off (aka red and greens).

From the first pic (s which is opinion and please don’t think I don’t value yours), but it looks like a lot of whites and over powering the blues. Here is an example of my tank during mid day, 30% whites 100% blues with the prior orbit marine pros on my 240. Taking just with an iPhone 8 so much better in person and the full tank was quiet a ways back to get it in one shoot. The individuals are just close up. But same settings and same iPhone camera.

6E47C8CC-9D01-41B6-8642-B74FED596CA2.jpeg 00E62C0C-C4DF-41B1-B250-DED218BEB7E7.jpeg 07C8C09C-1797-43C7-BDE5-286FE5940D35.jpeg 0EEF9093-9471-4761-90A1-198FC0A14A91.jpeg
 

Dw79

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I have the duel 36 inch ic pro's with the loop system sitting on the rim of an 18 inch deep tank. Blues are at 75%, whites are at 25% and both red and green are at 5%
20191127_130111.jpg
 

Willis19

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I have marine pro loop using 100% blue, 10% white, 30% red and 5% green. All growing up

D86A58E7-94F6-4B32-A4F7-F22C73EB83B7.jpeg F866453C-245B-44E8-B496-4596FEF71AFC.jpeg
 

Willis19

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Hello,

From your pics, and I have used a lot of current usa, I’d suggest removing the brackets, and placing them on top of the tank as intended. I would also add the third light, give a more even spread, however only run the blue channel. There would be too much white light, and the blues will help with coral growth and color.
Since I use the step above yours, my blues are at 100, and whites at 30%. I don’t have near the blue tint you do but I can always change it. If I had mint at 70% whites I’d see no blues hardly at all, and I would literally cook all my corals. Your ic pros have less par and pur as the previous high end light. So raising them up higher is counter productive, plus they use a 90 degree lens instead of the more focused 60 degree in the prior version. I’d definitely keep the rgb off (aka red and greens).

From the first pic (s which is opinion and please don’t think I don’t value yours), but it looks like a lot of whites and over powering the blues. Here is an example of my tank during mid day, 30% whites 100% blues with the prior orbit marine pros on my 240. Taking just with an iPhone 8 so much better in person and the full tank was quiet a ways back to get it in one shoot. The individuals are just close up. But same settings and same iPhone camera.

6E47C8CC-9D01-41B6-8642-B74FED596CA2.jpeg 00E62C0C-C4DF-41B1-B250-DED218BEB7E7.jpeg 07C8C09C-1797-43C7-BDE5-286FE5940D35.jpeg 0EEF9093-9471-4761-90A1-198FC0A14A91.jpeg
Any particular reason for no red and green?
 

jeffchapok

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I have the IC Pro 48" on my 60 gal, supplemented with two 24" dual bulb T5 (non-HO).

This is with B100, W50, R28, G28. I think the T5's were off for this pic.
IMG_20191219_173729652~6.jpg


I just sit the T5 fixtures on top of the Orbit's mounting arm between the LEDs.
15723135841585251573507245245365.jpg
 

Steve Wallace

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I have the 72" IC Pro on my 6' tank, but it didn't pop enough for me, so I added 2 TrueLumen Actinic and that made a HUGE difference in the color pop. I originally had the IC mounted with 4 extended mounting arms, but took those down as I didn't like the way they looked (to be honest, it was my wife who didn't like the way they looked). I am actually going to get rid of the TrueLumen and replace them with a 72" XHO actinic.
IMG_8108.JPG
 

Steve Wallace

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I have the 72" IC Pro on my 6' tank, but it didn't pop enough for me, so I added 2 TrueLumen Actinic and that made a HUGE difference in the color pop. I originally had the IC mounted with 4 extended mounting arms, but took those down as I didn't like the way they looked (to be honest, it was my wife who didn't like the way they looked). I am actually going to get rid of the TrueLumen and replace them with a 72" XHO actinic.
IMG_8108.JPG
IMG_7722.jpg
IMG_7722.jpg
 
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New&no clue

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I just started a new office tank a Nuvo30L with 36” Current Marine IC. I just have one light, but thinking about getting another. I have it set on the tank. Because the tank is only 12” deep with an inch sand bed I’m looking at about 100par on the sand. The tank will be mostly softies. My lights are at 100% blue 50% white 25% red & green.
7596FAB3-419D-465D-88D7-657CF57315A8.jpeg
 

Susan Edwards

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Hello,

From your pics, and I have used a lot of current usa, I’d suggest removing the brackets, and placing them on top of the tank as intended. I would also add the third light, give a more even spread, however only run the blue channel. There would be too much white light, and the blues will help with coral growth and color.

One reason they are not on the tank itself is the fact that I have screens and that looks low enough that removing the screens to feed might be a pain. I had jumpers in there. Don't now but plan to put more in. Also, I worry about my cats--hvae 2 kittens--jumping up onto the lights. I'll lower them for sure though, at least 1 notch

I've also turned the whites down. I tend not to like looking at a blue tank. Right now there isn't much in there.
 

Nep2nRevision3

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I had 4 of these 48" lights over my tank and gave them away. Not due to the quality of the light but due to the fact that they didn't produce nearly enough par for my intentions.

LEDs were just being introduced into the hobby when I got out years back. When I jumped back in 2-3 years ago I didn't want to go back with the metal halides due to the heat issues, but didn't know anything about LEDs. I asked an old acquaintance who sets up and maintains aquariums for a living for his opinion as to what would be a good LED for me. I told him my goal was to keep sps and large poly stony corals. He swore by these lights so I made the purchase. It didn't take long to figure out they were not going to providing adequate light for the corals I intended to keep.

This all being said, if you're keeping soft corals, mushrooms, zoanthids (as is the individual I gave them to), they'll get the job done. The fixture itself does look nice and the blues used are aesthetically pleasing. He's running 3-48" lights on a 75 gallon tank. Lights are set at:

Blue-100%
White-20%
Red-5%
Green-5%

His corals are healthy and growing. Hope this is helpful.
 

Sarah24!

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Any particular reason for no red and green?

Hello,

Not sure if this was directed at me but if so, the reason is I run the higher marine pro. It doesn’t give you the option to change red or green. It’s blues, magenta, cool whites and purple and uv. It’s a full spectrum but they are much much more powerful than the ic pros. They produce A higher par than radions g4pros, and the pur is Actually higher. I have no problems keeping sps in my tank and it’s 240 gallons and 34 inches tall. Even with it that tall using the ly-cor 1500 par meter, it’s 100-120 on the sand bed. Believe it’s 4117 model and they are 72 long, but have the 60 degre dome lens which really radiates it. They do lack the function of Bluetooth and changing things etc, (they Ramp up and down etc), but bells and whistles not so much. They do clouds and rain etc but it’s from a remote. They are also much more beefer per say than any of the other currents leds. But they have been fantastic and I have been able to grow anything with the lights I have.

The ic pros are good but there are limits on them and they do not have the power to do a large tank like mine. Tanks under 125 they should be able to grow anything, yet placement of said items is key with these.

lol probably longer post than needed but it helps if you were not aware that I don’t use the ic pros.
 

boacvh

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Hi All,

For anyone who has these... and having success I was wondering what your setting are?

Reds, Green, Blue & White %
How high above the tank are they
Do you have any other lighting with it, T5 or other LED

I have the marine ic pro mounted 4” above the tank with B100% W50% G&R25%. I have no additional lighting but thinking about a T5.

Any thoughts would be great
I had your exact same settings. Loved these lights. How they looked and the functionality. plus I have to say current USA has superb customer support. I had at the time some LPS and softies with no issues. But I wanted to try a few SPS and they died with these lights so I ended upgrading to kessils. If current USA comes out with a more powerful version I would definitely consider them again.
 

Sarah24!

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I had your exact same settings. Loved these lights. How they looked and the functionality. plus I have to say current USA has superb customer support. I had at the time some LPS and softies with no issues. But I wanted to try a few SPS and they died with these lights so I ended upgrading to kessils. If current USA comes out with a more powerful version I would definitely consider them again.

Hello,

You are in luck they have a new one they will show mid February or March this year. In theory they are suppose to keep the loop system, but going back to the power of the 4114, 4117, but even more than those. Going back to the huge heat sinks similar to 4114. This is in theory but I talk with them a lot. Brandon and Ike give amazing customer service.
 
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New&no clue

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Do most people have the remotes or the Bluetooth? I have the remote on my 75 and I really like it. I have the Bluetooth for my 30 and it doesn’t seem to work as well. Especially the timer on the lights, for some reason they get stuck on and never turn off. To get it to connect again I have to delete the tank from the app and then reconnect and reset all my lighting and wave makers. It’s becoming very frustrating.
 

Sarah24!

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Do most people have the remotes or the Bluetooth? I have the remote on my 75 and I really like it. I have the Bluetooth for my 30 and it doesn’t seem to work as well. Especially the timer on the lights, for some reason they get stuck on and never turn off. To get it to connect again I have to delete the tank from the app and then reconnect and reset all my lighting and wave makers. It’s becoming very frustrating.

Hello,

I would make sure that it’s connected to the phone. I use the Bluetooth unit for wave makers etc (not lights), but I can say I can turn them on and off outside my house. If the blue circle is lit then it’s connected. Every great while I’ll have to close the app out and re open the loop.

As far as timer goes, from what I played with on mine check and see if timer is on or off. If you can screen shot what you have I can see if I can figure why they won’t shut off. Usually it’s because when I have done timers I don’t put the correct values in. If you have anything in moonlight they will stay on all night.
 

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