Can anyone identify these lights?

LesPoissons

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Hey all,
I’m trying to identify why my tank isn’t successful. I use the ViParSpectra lights (6 on my 220) and I’m wondering if I’d have more success with different lighting. My lfs uses these and his corals grow nicely but the owner is never there and the kids that work there don’t know what they are. Thoughts?

3991AD76-FF0D-409F-831E-A2B259BF48B9.jpeg A7F38665-E67F-4166-8C95-1F4130FEA69B.jpeg 416A3414-FBCC-4321-AE94-D67F2B85A00A.jpeg C2E04F0A-5750-4B17-9B47-5525DA253784.jpeg
 

ekandler

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Those are new Radion Gen 5 XR30s, either the pros or the blues. Can’t tell from the picture. The only way to tell by looking at it is the top ring is a light blue on the blues, black on the pros.
 

monkeyCmonkeyDo

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Lights are a major change yes. I would look at ur water chemistry. Filtration. Flow.
Maybe do a large wc to reset at proper numbers.
Ur using test equipment on ur water?
Tds meter. Refractometer. Alk test?
D
 

AutumnReefs

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Nothing is happy when you dramatically change the lights but they should be fine after a bit if that is the cause. However they are far better lights than viparspectra, if not the best on the market.
 
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LesPoissons

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Yeah thats the lfs tank not mine
My tank is a 5 year old reef that has been through 2 massive gha outbreaks
Ive done literally ALL the things you normally do. Tangs, slugs, urchins, water changes, scrubbing, bottled bactria, fluconozole, peroxide scrubs, algae scrubber, boosting clean up crew, dosing live phyto, growing chaeto etc asking everyone on this forum etc. Lol Now I have a gha free tank (for the moment) and Im scared because 1 more and Im done.
I cannot figue out why I keep getting outbreaks and it should be simple but it doesnt seem to be. I dont have an excess of nutrients, the blues are on 100% 12 2hours, whites 2% for 8 hours. I have a gyre xf280, multiple powerheads to crate different flow patterns, I uses hanna test kits for ca, alk, and phos. nyos for nitrate. salifert for mag, Ph is monitored w a probe. Temp is 77 -78 with a heater.
Alk is 8-9, ca 435, mag 1250, nitrates are typically 1 and phos is 0.03. (this is not by design- its just how it usually is with healthy amount of feeding etc). These are my values right now with no GHA in the tank. (I spent 3 days removing 200#s of live rock, scrubbing each rock, etc. Then 5 days of super low/short light, h202 at night, microbacter during the day. Now my ramping the lights back up and well see what happens. I dose live phyto that I culture and trying to find chaeto for the sump.)
Anyway- trying to identify what else I can change to avoid the plague again.
 
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LesPoissons

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Yeah thats the lfs tank not mine
My tank is a 5 year old reef that has been through 2 massive gha outbreaks
Ive done literally ALL the things you normally do. Tangs, slugs, urchins, water changes, scrubbing, bottled bactria, fluconozole, peroxide scrubs, algae scrubber, boosting clean up crew, dosing live phyto, growing chaeto etc asking everyone on this forum etc. Lol Now I have a gha free tank (for the moment) and Im scared because 1 more and Im done.
I cannot figue out why I keep getting outbreaks and it should be simple but it doesnt seem to be. I dont have an excess of nutrients, the blues are on 100% 12 2hours, whites 2% for 8 hours. I have a gyre xf280, multiple powerheads to crate different flow patterns, I uses hanna test kits for ca, alk, and phos. nyos for nitrate. salifert for mag, Ph is monitored w a probe. Temp is 77 -78 with a heater.
Alk is 8-9, ca 435, mag 1250, nitrates are typically 1 and phos is 0.03. (this is not by design- its just how it usually is with healthy amount of feeding etc). These are my values right now with no GHA in the tank. (I spent 3 days removing 200#s of live rock, scrubbing each rock, etc. Then 5 days of super low/short light, h202 at night, microbacter during the day. Now my ramping the lights back up and well see what happens. I dose live phyto that I culture and trying to find chaeto for the sump.)
Anyway- trying to identify what else I can change to avoid the plague again.
oh spectrapure max cap 5 stage rodi, IO salt, bi weekly 20% water changes, refractometere, sal 1.026
 

monkeyCmonkeyDo

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100% blue light is still light. Turn down to 80. Increase white.
Give it time. Sounds like uve been doing a lot to ur tank. Water. Ect.
Whats your flow? Filtration? U do a wc maybe 1 time every cpl months? This would help i think. Make it real.dirty prior to the wc.
Hths you
D
 

Tamberav

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Changing lights isn't going to fix GHA issues. Anything capable of growing corals can grow GHA.
 

blasterman

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Is there a reason you have glass lids on the tank?

I have plate glass on my tank to reduce evap. Growth is through the roof. Its not the problem.

I tested a Radion XR 15 Blue on my tank a month and was not blown away. My modified black box had better coverage and color at max output and the same PAR.
 
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LesPoissons

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the blue lights at 100 and white at 30 was calibrated with a par meter to get each coral the right par in its position. I tested par at 54 points in the tank at a variety of settings to get it right. The white is usually 30%, its just not ramped it up yet.

Okay good to know that light isnt he issue since I cant afford those lights anyway lol
My cuc is hermit crabs (idk how many anymore) trochus ceirth turbo nerite and nasarius snails, urchins, and a gladiator snail
The tangs are a bristle tooth, sailfin, and hippo
Also a foxface
(Other attempts I wont try again: sea slugs, fuzzy chitons, powder tangs, naso tangs, lawnmower blennies)
The tank turns over about 8 times an hour
Flow is maxpect gyre, vortech and jebao power heads
Skimmer and uv sterilizer 12 hours on/12 off
filter floss I take out every couple days
 
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LesPoissons

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I dont see the need to skim more since my nutrients stay pretty low? I turn the uv and skimmer off at night and dose phyto.
 

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